hello.
I broke the second gear I also slow because of the screws, but I think the problem was all the support separate motor.
In fact, with one-piece engine mount (mugen) I have not had any problems like that (if you tighten the screws!) :).
P.S. Mugen has solved all the problems of the machine (motor mount, differential, back support cushions, clutch spring support ring) only fault the position of the brake and his lack of efficacy (resulting in twisting of the chassis) with a tie rod that we can improve.
pp.ss tablets brake (optional model) should be left in nitro diluent for 24 h, then mounted. the brake is much stronger.


my bad English is a translation from google traslator :) :) :)

I just assembled a new MTX5 and I noticed that the drivetrain binds when I push it across my floor.

• All of my tires are newly trued to the same diameter.
• I used a Parma bearing lubricator to oil all of the bearings.
• The brake is not binding. The linkage is loose and the springs are pushing the pads off the disc.
• The two-speed and the clutch are not binding. I removed the 2-speed and the drivetrain was still binding.
• I removed the side belt with the 2-speed still removed, spun the front and rear side gears by hand, and I felt a little resistance, but it was not that bad. The front and rear belts are adjusted properly and they are not rubbing on anything.
• I put the car on the floor with the side belt and 2-speed still out and it rolled much more freely than it did with those parts installed.
• I put the side belt back on and significant resistance returned. The adjuster on the side belt is as far up (loose) as it will go.

The resistance seems to be related to installing the side belt. Has anyone else noticed this? I have not driven the car yet so I’m not sure if it will loosen up. My MRX-5 never did this (even when it was new) and my other nitro touring car does not do it either.

Did u check the bearings in the belt tensioner?

The tensioner bearings spin freely.

Sounds like you have the wrong pulley somewhere and the ratios are different.

Hello
this thing is also normal, by installing the belt side a little braking, especially from new.
in my experience to have a nice smoothness, you have to work a little 'especially on the front differential and the bearing seats of barrels (front and rear). You need to slightly enlarge these locations to ensure that the bearing will not be forcibly inserted.
use it a bit 'and you'll see that the straps will fit and you will have no more' this problem (if problem it is).
while for the front differential if you have a T2002, you should have no problems ( checks that after inserting the block bumber the differential revolutions Free).
:)

Drive pulley
 

Check the rear belt small pulley, it's very close to the engine mount and it the engine is pushed all the way across and the pulley is a bit close it can rub.
But check your pulley sizes. There are 18 and 19 tooth pullies .
Make sure got put them in the right place. Also the std setup you need the front wheel 2mm smaller to get the same roll out. So 63 rear 61 front..
Or use 63 all Round and use the option side pully to get one to one.
Try marking a front and a rear wheel with a pen rotate the rear diff by hand.
Note then are not rotating at the same ratio..

Also check you have the brake pads on the right way.
The manual shows the wrong way.
The head of one screw will hold the pad from sitting flat if you reverse them.
This can cause drag.
It's always a good idea to drop the size belt to see if you can isolate if the drag is coming from the front or rear.
Ooh there's another trick.
Check you screw lengths on the front upper armed mount.
The one that goes in the side if it's to lond it can catch on the diff pulley.
That's all I got....



Hope this helps

The brakes are not binding and I used the correct pulleys on both ends. I checked the front vs rear rotation and I found the front to rotate slightly faster than the rear. My MRX5 has a much larger front to rear rotation difference.

My new tank has a fairly large air leak at the cap seal. I can clearly hear it when I hold the output fuel line and blow into the pressure line. Has anyone else noticed this?

So have you tried the fronts 2mm smaller and see if the resistance goes.
This would explain why you only see it happen with the side belt on.

Not yet, but I will.

I think I need a new tank as mine leaks air around the cap.

One thing I noticed is that the side belt seems to walk its way to the leftmost (outside) spot of both the front and rear pulleys. It gets to the point where the belt actually skips a little bit because it tries to go up the side of the pulleys. If I push the belt back to the rightmost (inside) position it will work it's way back to the outside position when I spin the tires. This is very strange as everything looks aligned and I installed everything as per the manual.

do not worry.
all they do, they do not fade and do not jump.
if in your case instead proves the contrary, maybe you've done something wrong (check the belt tensioner flange bearings).

Carbon fiber chassis
 

Hi guys,
Anyone tried the carbon fiber chassis.
Interested to hear your feedback.
How does it handle the engine heat?
Does the engine run hotter ?

Have you guys noticed after a while the alloy chassis cups/Bowes under the engine, side to side. I wonder if this is from heat from the engine or just all the shit I hit :lol:

Steve, your not using a brace? Of course it bows like a banana with out one

Clarity
 

What I mean is across the chassis. Left to right
I do use a brace.
What Ive always seen is some side to side cupping.
Put a straight edge across where the engine mount sits.
Check if it is flat?
I see light. 0.2 to 0.3 of a gap.
I use one piece mount too.