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Old 02-13-2013 | 02:42 PM
  #2671  
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Seisick says it was barely touching the front arm for him , but it seemed like the inside spokes of the rim were rubbing on the CF discs. I will double check again soon. It was rubbing so much for me that i also ran the contact carbon.
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Old 02-13-2013 | 04:35 PM
  #2672  
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Doctor 5....who makes that body???? An how did it work??
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Old 02-13-2013 | 07:02 PM
  #2673  
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Originally Posted by NITTO550
Seisick says it was barely touching the front arm for him , but it seemed like the inside spokes of the rim were rubbing on the CF discs. I will double check again soon. It was rubbing so much for me that i also ran the contact carbon.
Xceed and Capricon has the tool to shave off the inner rim. Although I think it's main purpose is not to make space for the carbon disc.. Hehe
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Old 02-14-2013 | 02:45 AM
  #2674  
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Smile Carbon disks

Hi guys while we are talking about carbon disks, I found a problem With the exceed rims on the rear. On the exit to turn one my was spinning out most laps, I just thought my crappy driving, I could drive a nail into wet sand!
Anyway after making lots o tuning changes nothing was working!
Then I pulled of a rear wheel to check what shore ratting I had written in side the rim and all the inner ring was badly marked at first I thought a stone had been could but both side where similar left rear works hard at brendale.
When I looked the carbon disk the bottom had a warn flat. I suspect het exceed rims flex a lot. And rub on the disk.
Told the disks off no more spin out .. Now it pushes. Lol.

So kids keep an eye out for that.
I know guys running Contacts and they have no problems.

The cutting tools are tuning aid, cutting the inner part of the rim thinner give the wheel more flex. Nor sure how that relates to handling.

I'm running Cap rims and no problem With the disks.

Steve H.

Love my Mugen 5

Last edited by shanwright; 02-14-2013 at 11:44 PM.
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Old 02-14-2013 | 03:32 AM
  #2675  
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Originally Posted by Arahawak
Xceed and Capricon has the tool to shave off the inner rim. Although I think it's main purpose is not to make space for the carbon disc.. Hehe
Reaming the rims is to get a more forward bite
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Old 02-14-2013 | 09:37 PM
  #2676  
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For me I have not experienced the wear from the carbon disk... I have had wear though on rear diff pully and also on the rear alluminum lower bulkhead, close to swaybar mount. .. the front has been strong, aslong as bumper takes most of the contact..

I dont have the name of the body bigbank I will try and find out. It was passed on to me... We run this body for 3 tanks... Just too try quickly.. I was slower on lap time so we added rear spoiler and side body stiffner using lexan.. It did help with control of the car. I have done this to my p37 and srs and blitz.. You cant run this lola style body with foam bumber unless you shave it down alot.. also you cant run the front graphite body support... the lola shell sit low in the front so we had to drill lower body pin hole...
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Old 02-17-2013 | 05:24 AM
  #2677  
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Hi Guys,

I am thinking of switching from NT1 to MTX5(it was my favourite from the beginning) but I am waiting some positive reviews about whether the new parts are resolving the gears stripping problem.....

Thanks
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Old 02-17-2013 | 05:42 AM
  #2678  
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Originally Posted by tonyhalandri
Hi Guys,

I am thinking of switching from NT1 to MTX5(it was my favourite from the beginning) but I am waiting some positive reviews about whether the new parts are resolving the gears stripping problem.....

Thanks
The gear issue was fixed last year in September with the new chassis and new 2 speed gears. I ran the same set of gears for the whole 2012 ROAR Nationals and the whole 2013 Winternats which is like 4 gallons of fuel and the gears still look new. I just changed the pinions but the two speed looks perfect.
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Old 02-17-2013 | 07:09 AM
  #2679  
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I believe a combo of some of the replacement parts eliminates any stripping, to be doubly sure you can use one of the Trackside RC braces and it's a total non issue now.

Not really helped the cars reputation though, it's stuck with the label of being fragile, which it can be a little if you hit a lot, but I have not seen it break any more than anything else out there now.
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Old 02-17-2013 | 11:23 AM
  #2680  
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Originally Posted by rangulo
The gear issue was fixed last year in September with the new chassis and new 2 speed gears. I ran the same set of gears for the whole 2012 ROAR Nationals and the whole 2013 Winternats which is like 4 gallons of fuel and the gears still look new. I just changed the pinions but the two speed looks perfect.
What is the part number for the new chassis? Does it come in the T2002 kits?
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Old 02-17-2013 | 12:12 PM
  #2681  
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Originally Posted by CanyonCarverR1
What is the part number for the new chassis? Does it come in the T2002 kits?
included in T2002 kit:

T2227 Diff. Gear (Steel)
T2228 Diff. Cross Shaft (Steel)
T2103L-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead L
T2103R-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead R
T2111-B Rear Upper Arm Mount Plate
T2201-B Diff Case
T2215-B Brake Disc Adaptor
H0753 Spring Cup (Steel)

not included but consider:

T2407
High Traction Chassis
T2715
One Piece Engine Mount
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Old 02-17-2013 | 12:58 PM
  #2682  
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Originally Posted by doctormtx5
included in T2002 kit:

T2227 Diff. Gear (Steel)
T2228 Diff. Cross Shaft (Steel)
T2103L-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead L
T2103R-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead R
T2111-B Rear Upper Arm Mount Plate
T2201-B Diff Case
T2215-B Brake Disc Adaptor
H0753 Spring Cup (Steel)

not included but consider:

T2407
High Traction Chassis
T2715
One Piece Engine Mount
They had to have them including with newer kit.right now someone, buy the latest kit, and needs the motor mount and the new chassis.great!
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Old 02-17-2013 | 01:33 PM
  #2683  
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Originally Posted by GREGORY!
They had to have them including with newer kit.right now someone, buy the latest kit, and needs the motor mount and the new chassis.great!
The updated kit was mostly for diff issues.. Thicker material on the diff case and the upper arms are updated aswell that hold the diff...
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Old 02-17-2013 | 09:02 PM
  #2684  
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hi we ran 6 days at nats aswell as final with all the old stuff but we used the brace from trackside and have had no more trouble with all standard bits
greg
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Old 02-18-2013 | 04:22 AM
  #2685  
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Thumbs up My opinion

Originally Posted by doctormtx5
included in T2002 kit:

T2227 Diff. Gear (Steel)
T2228 Diff. Cross Shaft (Steel)
T2103L-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead L
T2103R-B Rear Upper Arm Bulkhead R
T2111-B Rear Upper Arm Mount Plate
T2201-B Diff Case
T2215-B Brake Disc Adaptor
H0753 Spring Cup (Steel)

not included but consider:

T2407
High Traction Chassis
T2715
One Piece Engine Mount

Upgrade in this order:
1. T2002 + trackside rear brace
2. T2002 + trackside rear brace + one piece engine mount
3. T2002 + trackside rear brace + one piece engine mount + new chassis.

I'm a avarage driver and I have belted the crap out of my 5 over the last few club races and the chassis is still as flat as. I have 2 bent chassis in my spares box from before i started using the rear brace!

Now for those of you that don't crash maybe you won't want the rear brace.

Steve H

Love my 5
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