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Old 10-10-2011, 02:28 PM   #1171
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Originally Posted by rangulo View Post
For those of you who are having trouble with the new clutch here is what Ive found thats works really well. I used the silver mugen clutch spring and tightened to 1.4mm. Set the end gap to .70mm. I trimmed the corners on the sling weights as to allow them to come out without rubbing each other. Try to experiment using more or less tension on the spring and .6-.7 gap on the bell. I like to take the tension on the spring to the point where the clutch slips and than I back it out a 1/4 turn. good luck
rafael, have you tried mugen msr ultra hard or perhaps orions square spring on the x5 yet?
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:44 PM   #1172
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And for those 3 tanks, the clutch was giving you a lot of trouble...
not a lot of trouble, on the infield the clutch was super! but on straight when the car hit the secong gear it begins to slip but I am working on that! or that is what Juan told me with his advise!
btw thanks for the battery advise!!!
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Old 10-10-2011, 02:45 PM   #1173
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sorry double post
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Last edited by JRGTR; 10-10-2011 at 02:46 PM. Reason: double post
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:22 PM   #1174
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
rafael, have you tried mugen msr ultra hard or perhaps orions square spring on the x5 yet?
Yes I did try the MSR spring. It seemed to have too much tension for this tiny little clutch. I feel like the stock spring is heavy enough. i think the parts are so light and tiny they do not have the weight to properly engage the clutch. I tried and tried the MSR and changed it out only to find that it was to hard. The MSR will work but I could not get it to work as well as a spring with less tension.
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Old 10-10-2011, 05:44 PM   #1175
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Originally Posted by Chickentrader View Post
The BMX track quote is perhaps a slight exaggeration; but basically true, and our assessment agrees with Daniels. Our car traction rolls with the hard springs that we used to run with, but is perfect when we go a little softer.

The setup discussion on this thread is awesome, and I'm taking notes for future reference every day. The copy and paste function is working overtime on my computer. Thanks for all the contributions.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
HAHA Lars I said its LIKE a BMX track and realistically for the scale it is like a BMX track.

It is good to see, but Lars this setup info is for a MTX5 not a Goat!!! lol
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Old 10-10-2011, 06:04 PM   #1176
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totally agree Luis. Most people seem to think that a basic setup means "it works everywhere". Also what i noticed sometimes in RC is you have idiots who are quick to talk to people condecendingly when they don't try the basic setup .As if it's some sort of neccessary requirement to use it at least once.


I feel sometimes people in RC don't think outside the square with setups and blindly do what the quick guys do thinking it will work for them. I have a mate of mine who has told me " i don't fool around with setup anymore i do what the quick guys do"

sometimes this works, but most times it doesn't because people don't think about setup and WHY a certain setup will affect the car.

Also i see a lot of people not trying all setup options, just the basics like springs and oil and toe and camber...there are a mountain of extra setups options that can fix problems.

Bishop, you say the car handles ok and it is quick, yet you have some small problems on exit on throttle. Mate, don't go soft! a soft setup on a fast bumpy track like Brendal will just feel atrocious! go with a dark blue or higher spring setup, also like Dan said go with a narrow track width left to right. go 198 rear 195 front (or as narrow as you can front and rear).

on the S section after the front straight make sure you always stay on throttle and never back off totally otherwise witht he bumps in that section the car will spin out there. Stay on throttle and never back off totally, do this all the way until the back straight.

If i was you i would go dark blue springs front and rear, with standard oil, two holes. Try anti squat on the rear with stiffer rear bar and thinner front bar

the anti squat on the rear will keep the car planted on throttle on exit. (anti squat is the rear arm angled towards the back ie; the lowest pin position on the rear and middle or highest position ont he engine side. This keeps the weight on the rear arms).

You might find you can raise the rear shocks with anti squat.

Also go long rear links with no washers or 1mm washers only on the outside. Longer camber links give more grip and the reduced washers means less camber change.

also try raising the front arms after all of this and see what it does.

Also remember casotr affects exit reaction of the car.
Gee Tom its so nice to finaly meet someone who knows everything like you do, it must be a great feeling and the word "idiots" you used that gives me an idea you are also super intelligent, hmmmmmmmmmmm I am so envious.

Regards
Les
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:58 AM   #1177
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Gee Tom its so nice to finaly meet someone who knows everything like you do, it must be a great feeling and the word "idiots" you used that gives me an idea you are also super intelligent, hmmmmmmmmmmm I am so envious.

Regards
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Les, mate i never said i know everything you mis read my post or decided to jump on it, not sure which one it is. in fact i was supporting the local hobbyist who enjoys to try their own setups and enjoy this hobby by doing whatever they want.

too many people in this hobby, and i see it especially with the Aussie guys follow what the quick guy does like sheep. this is a hobby, and what someone does with their setup is their business and the discovery element is all part of the fun...many Aussie guys forget this element of the hobby and berate other racers when they try something different.

i'm known for doing some silly things with my setups, but really...who gives a toss what i do Are children in Africa dieing because of my setup options ...no...so who cares Some Aussie racers especially act like kids are dying when someone says;

"i didn't use the stock setup"

more people need to have a laugh and fun in this hobby. It's not about how much cash you spend, or how many wins you get, it's solely about how much fun you have...and if this means that you want to run yout shocks upside down then so be it we should be confident enough to not really care, but conscious enough to see how people act.

Last edited by TomB; 10-11-2011 at 01:12 AM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 04:27 AM   #1178
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Well, finally the X5 has arrived in Europe and I started to build my car.
On the first steps you just recognized that there are these littles things which make the difference.
Just have to finish the car until friday, because we have a race at the weekend.
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Old 10-11-2011, 06:05 AM   #1179
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Originally Posted by jaykay View Post
Well, finally the X5 has arrived in Europe and I started to build my car.
On the first steps you just recognized that there are these littles things which make the difference.
Just have to finish the car until friday, because we have a race at the weekend.
make sure you put the correct covers on each diff, there are letters on the cover which designate front and rear...just saying as it's easy to miss
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Old 10-11-2011, 08:31 AM   #1180
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make sure you put the correct covers on each diff, there are letters on the cover which designate front and rear...just saying as it's easy to miss
And what happens if the covers are inverted???
Is good to know because a close friend did something to the diff and I could be a possible cause that he inverted the covers
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Old 10-11-2011, 10:45 AM   #1181
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make sure you put the correct covers on each diff, there are letters on the cover which designate front and rear...just saying as it's easy to miss
ok, just talked to RP. he told me that the covers have a difference of +-1mm to itīs necessary to install them correct. he also gave me the tip to glue the brake disk adapter

Last edited by jaykay; 10-11-2011 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:42 AM   #1182
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Hello, I am going to buy the mugen mtx5.
I would like to know who uses it if you are experiencing particular problems.
fragility of the frame?
fragility of the crowns?
differentials?

I look forward to your advice I change my NT1
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Old 10-11-2011, 11:49 AM   #1183
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ok, just talked to RP. he told me that the covers have a difference of +-1mm to itīs necessary to install them correct. he also gave me the tip to glue the brake disk adapter
if not will the adapter get loose?
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Old 10-11-2011, 12:11 PM   #1184
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if not will the adapter get loose?
can happen.
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Old 10-11-2011, 01:48 PM   #1185
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Originally Posted by biagio23 View Post
Hello, I am going to buy the mugen mtx5.
I would like to know who uses it if you are experiencing particular problems.
fragility of the frame?
fragility of the crowns?
differentials?

I look forward to your advice I change my NT1
Well the car is new. It has all the latest in sway bars aluminum bulk heads and small gears and diffs. The car only needs locktite. Its two speed works great. I've been running mine for 2 club races and a us roar nationals with the same gears. No two speed failures. The car is also pretty strong. It is really easy to change the belts and make adjustments. The composite diff gears are still in my car with no issues. The diffs are extremely light and parts show little sign of wear. It is a well thought out design. The longer it is out there; the better the setting sheets will be and better combinations for different tracks. Build it well and it will run good longer!!!!

I thnk the NT1 is a cool car the runs good but no pressure!!!
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