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Old 05-28-2012, 03:37 AM   #2101
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn View Post
hi is your track long/short twisty/bumpy ours has 1long/1 short straight rest is twisty 18 second /10 scale /lap i think it was a bit quicker when we had worlds 06 at brendale QLD/aus not many changes from standard set up and it is pretty good a bit bumpier than 06
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The Kuusankoski track is fairly new and designed primarily for electric modified and it is shorter and twistier than the more open tracks designed for nitro cars (average 1/10 nitro laps in 16-16,5s range yesterday). Surface is smooth with no bumps. The only "straight" has a curve in the middle.
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Old 05-28-2012, 05:02 AM   #2102
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The Kuusankoski track is fairly new and designed primarily for electric modified and it is shorter and twistier than the more open tracks designed for nitro cars (average 1/10 nitro laps in 16-16,5s range yesterday). Surface is smooth with no bumps. The only "straight" has a curve in the middle.
Here is it:
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:25 AM   #2103
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Below are the changes (to box setup) that greatly improved steering in yesterdays race (race 1 of our national series). Due to unusually strong pollen season the track was quite slippery even though it had been treated. The "5" was superb in the semifinal and my son started in the final from 2nd position.
Front:
-2-hole pistons
-shock oil 600
-purple spring
-2,2 anti-roll bar
-upper hinge pin in highest position
-ackerman in the front setting
-toe out 1,5 on both sides
-added caster (1mm from rear to front)
-added camber (front tyres coning very sligthly)
-added split in ground clearance, rear higher than normal
(should have, but could not test front upright upper plate)

Rear:
-oil 450
-other rear settings stayed standard and untouched all day

-tyres 35/37
-body P37
-additional chassis weight off
thanks for the infos jarkko, will try it soon. just a few changes to meet up the setting.. congrats for 2nd overall.. how the results?
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Old 05-28-2012, 09:00 AM   #2104
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you may be more 'precise, or put a immaggine of that work on the lever?? Thank you.
It's just a strip of carbon plate taken off a broken rear shock tower, it nearly doubles the length of the stock brake lever, which is not all that hard cause the stock lever is so short, I just cut down the bit of carbon plate till it was a small strip, then drilled and tapped holes in it to screw to the stock lever.

Of course it's not necessary at all, cause at least two places make an after market longer lever, just last time I tried to order one all were out of stock, so I got bored waiting and made up one myself.

Really it's not that surprising a longer lever helps, the stock one is very short, and Rob P admitted recently he basically does not use brakes, and he designed the car, I noticed the five stock lacked some brake power when I built it, though it did not worry me as I only seem to need them when I pit for fuel, but what does bother me is the lack of progression in the brakes, which I'm hoping more leverage will fix.
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Old 05-28-2012, 06:17 PM   #2105
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Hey guys , i just bought a mugen . The t2001 original kit. Is mugen willing to send me those revised parts or do I have to start tracking them down. Second question. Do the X-ray diff gears work in the mugen.?
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Old 05-28-2012, 07:22 PM   #2106
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It's just a strip of carbon plate taken off a broken rear shock tower, it nearly doubles the length of the stock brake lever, which is not all that hard cause the stock lever is so short, I just cut down the bit of carbon plate till it was a small strip, then drilled and tapped holes in it to screw to the stock lever.

Of course it's not necessary at all, cause at least two places make an after market longer lever, just last time I tried to order one all were out of stock, so I got bored waiting and made up one myself.

Really it's not that surprising a longer lever helps, the stock one is very short, and Rob P admitted recently he basically does not use brakes, and he designed the car, I noticed the five stock lacked some brake power when I built it, though it did not worry me as I only seem to need them when I pit for fuel, but what does bother me is the lack of progression in the brakes, which I'm hoping more leverage will fix.
good idea Bishop. Can you please post a pic to get an idea of how much longer the extension is? thanks in advance.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:03 AM   #2107
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thanks for the infos jarkko, will try it soon. just a few changes to meet up the setting.. congrats for 2nd overall.. how the results?
Well, there was a reason I used the semifinals result to underline how good the car was. In the final the TQ driver took technical 10 and was moved to the 11th starting position so there was nobody in front of our car in the start.
In the final warm-up the car was great even with the large final size tyres. BUT something happened with the gears at about 5 sec after the start on the first lap before the car even shifted to 2nd. Both spur gears stripped and we went into the pit&service mode. We got eventually back on the track but the gap was too big and the race was over for us.

Still wondering why and investigating...

Before that moment gear stripping has not been a problem for us with this new car.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:58 AM   #2108
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good idea Bishop. Can you please post a pic to get an idea of how much longer the extension is? thanks in advance.
I did not put a huge amount of effort into mine, as I knew I'd buy one of the option bits at some point...
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MTX 5-brake01.jpg   MTX 5-brake02.jpg  
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:20 AM   #2109
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i like the breaks as they are

this would work better for your application though.....

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Old 05-29-2012, 02:35 AM   #2110
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That would be the Hayabusa Racing one, neither that or the KM one was in stock last time I was ordering gear, although the HR one looks almost overkill long.

I just find with the stock leverage on the brakes, it's like you get nothing, nothing, nothing, then lock, or near lock up, could just be pads, but stock lacks progression in terms of feel, I'd like to set my brakes to have a medium sort of end point bite, but with more progression leading up to it, which so far I have been unable to get.

Someone told me the option pads 'bite' more, which would likely be better in terms of not having to servo bend your chassis before it will properly bite, but again more leverage should in theory improve the progression and maybe bite.
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Old 05-29-2012, 02:52 AM   #2111
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thanks for picture of track ours looked great for worlds 06 with all the flags and so on i was proud of what the club did we had 10scale and next year we had 1/5 scale as well it is only a small club now still have some members that have been there since captain cook was here
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:03 AM   #2112
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you should have minimal amount of breaks though.. you never want a lock up to occur... if you are bending the chassis then you havent set your break end point correctly...

thats just my opinion and how i like my car to react... small amout of breaks is all you want when you race

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That would be the Hayabusa Racing one, neither that or the KM one was in stock last time I was ordering gear, although the HR one looks almost overkill long.

I just find with the stock leverage on the brakes, it's like you get nothing, nothing, nothing, then lock, or near lock up, could just be pads, but stock lacks progression in terms of feel, I'd like to set my brakes to have a medium sort of end point bite, but with more progression leading up to it, which so far I have been unable to get.

Someone told me the option pads 'bite' more, which would likely be better in terms of not having to servo bend your chassis before it will properly bite, but again more leverage should in theory improve the progression and maybe bite.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:38 AM   #2113
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In the final warm-up the car was great even with the large final size tyres. BUT something happened with the gears at about 5 sec after the start on the first lap before the car even shifted to 2nd. Both spur gears stripped and we went into the pit&service mode. We got eventually back on the track but the gap was too big and the race was over for us.

Still wondering why and investigating...
How did the gears behave after the first breakage? I cannot remember.
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:04 AM   #2114
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you should have minimal amount of breaks though.. you never want a lock up to occur... if you are bending the chassis then you havent set your break end point correctly...

thats just my opinion and how i like my car to react... small amout of breaks is all you want when you race
you don't want a small amount of brakes mate. this is the logic from back in the oneway days.

you want enough brakes, for any situation. you want to be able to brake how and when you need it. you shouldn't be modfying your driving for ineffective mechanical gear, the mechanical gear should be doing everything you want it to, when you want it to.

When did you hear a 1:1 racer say "i just roll into the corners, it's quicker" Racers want power when they want it, torque when they want it, steering when they want it, grip when they want it, slide when they want it and brakes when they want it. This is the make up to a well handling car.

PS: i agree with Bishop the mod to the lever is recommended. It helps quite a bit, in saying this i have after market pads so this also helped. In general the stock brake pad material is too hard. Brace is not needed people. The MTX4 had a brace and it still stripped...remember??! brace does nothing except eliminate flex where you need it most.

PPS: the longer brake linkage works like a long spanner, it doesn't give you a more progressive brake, this is wrong, it just gives you greater leverage at the point of contact between the brake and the pads. Your car is braking more, not because you have more progression but because the longer lever actually applys more force onto the disk.

For this reason, if you want more progressive brakes you will need softer brake pad material which bites and grabs earlier. if you can find this, then you won't need the longer brake arm. I read somewhere that the motonica brake pads work well. try that, or if all else fails get the KM pads from the NT1 and stick them to mugen pads minus the sh1t material that comes stock in the kit.

Last edited by TomB; 05-29-2012 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 05-29-2012, 04:00 PM   #2115
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you cant even build mugen mtx5 diffs mate. I cant take what you say serious... think about what i said... take it in...

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you don't want a small amount of brakes mate. this is the logic from back in the oneway days.

you want enough brakes, for any situation. you want to be able to brake how and when you need it. you shouldn't be modfying your driving for ineffective mechanical gear, the mechanical gear should be doing everything you want it to, when you want it to.

When did you hear a 1:1 racer say "i just roll into the corners, it's quicker" Racers want power when they want it, torque when they want it, steering when they want it, grip when they want it, slide when they want it and brakes when they want it. This is the make up to a well handling car.

PS: i agree with Bishop the mod to the lever is recommended. It helps quite a bit, in saying this i have after market pads so this also helped. In general the stock brake pad material is too hard. Brace is not needed people. The MTX4 had a brace and it still stripped...remember??! brace does nothing except eliminate flex where you need it most.

PPS: the longer brake linkage works like a long spanner, it doesn't give you a more progressive brake, this is wrong, it just gives you greater leverage at the point of contact between the brake and the pads. Your car is braking more, not because you have more progression but because the longer lever actually applys more force onto the disk.

For this reason, if you want more progressive brakes you will need softer brake pad material which bites and grabs earlier. if you can find this, then you won't need the longer brake arm. I read somewhere that the motonica brake pads work well. try that, or if all else fails get the KM pads from the NT1 and stick them to mugen pads minus the sh1t material that comes stock in the kit.
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