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Old 04-06-2012, 10:01 AM   #1966
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Originally Posted by Seisick View Post
Sure, the silver one works superb, but its more sensitive to adjustments compared to stock one (gold) consistent in long runs I'd say, the black one won't work, to stiff
is it silver 4R clutch spring?
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Old 04-06-2012, 05:01 PM   #1967
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is it silver 4R clutch spring?
Correct
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Old 04-06-2012, 10:15 PM   #1968
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Correct
i`ll try it tomorrow any diff oil changes after using steel gears? rite now i`m using stock f 200k and r 50k...
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Old 04-06-2012, 11:00 PM   #1969
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Does anyone has any set up to try??
for a low grip track ...
Thank you guys!!
You could try the Robert Pietsch EC setup sheet, in theory if you look at it, most things on it seem to suggest a low grip setup, lowered roll centers and soft springs and shocks.

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i`ll try it tomorrow any diff oil changes after using steel gears? rite now i`m using stock f 200k and r 50k...
Everyone seems to favor thicker oils of late, 300k front, around 80k rear is popular, I'm keen to try going the other way though, thinner oils used to be popular on the older 4, should make more traction if there is less on track maybe.
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Old 04-07-2012, 09:10 PM   #1970
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You could try the Robert Pietsch EC setup sheet, in theory if you look at it, most things on it seem to suggest a low grip setup, lowered roll centers and soft springs and shocks.


Everyone seems to favor thicker oils of late, 300k front, around 80k rear is popular, I'm keen to try going the other way though, thinner oils used to be popular on the older 4, should make more traction if there is less on track maybe.
Kerry,

I thought everyone was having to thicker because of the diffs getting smaller in size and trying to get a similar handing to the old larger diffs etc.

When i built my MTX5 put 300,000wt oil in the front diff and added extra hole to shock pistons, but it understeers quite a bit.

Andrew
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:13 AM   #1971
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Kerry,

I thought everyone was having to thicker because of the diffs getting smaller in size and trying to get a similar handing to the old larger diffs etc.

When i built my MTX5 put 300,000wt oil in the front diff and added extra hole to shock pistons, but it understeers quite a bit.

Andrew
go back to 200,000wt then. use softer front tyres. should have good steering out of the box

i tried the Robert P setup at an event recently. i didn't like it. Someone told me it is a high grip track setup
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:40 AM   #1972
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I have merily Synchronised all 4 poles (See Below)




Stripping gears is definately a car problem, there are a combination of issues some that are fixable and some that are not that contribute to this problem, you can eliminate the fixable issues and this minimises your chances of stripping gears. One may ask themselves why don't Xray and Capricorn drivers have to pay so much attention to alignment and mesh in order not to strip gears, i used to slap on gears on my xray bung on a motor (mesh near enough good enough) and replace spur gears a year later cause the plastic looked old. Lets be realastic here, There is an issue with gear stripping, this is not a random event.
The ones that don"t have this problem have merily syncrinised all 4 poles and hit a G spot, the challenge is to keep hitting this g spot.


Rear diff plastic has more meat to beef it up obviously in order to address rear diff failure with plastis gears, problem now is everybody is too scared to run plastic gears, on this car. I know all you Capricorn drivers will be chuckling at this right now as their diffs are about 15 gms lighter, these are the facts.
And guess what the first time i pulled my upper bulkhead off the car it was broken and guess what again the mugen importer fails to acnowledge that this part should be replaced as a defect even when you see the new one with more beef on it,
Mugen basically sais tuff titties, just like the stripping gears just like the blowing diffs, just like the mismatching servo savers, just like the thrust ecentric holder with a wonky hole.
Oh and if anyone thinks that the driveline is free (with urethane belts) and light (with steel diffs, steel cvds, heavy spurs etc) your having yourselves on right here. Throw away these belts put the rubbers on and you will still find the side and front belts are too tight with no more adjustment.
(Capricorn drivers stop falling off your chairs in laughter right now), we don't care that your diffs are lighter, your diffs are reliable, your drive line is lighter your chassy does not hit the floor in a bow when the breaks are applied, you don't bend chassies on starter boxes, you don't blow gears, your thrust bearings spin without wobbling, you get rubber belts in the kit bla bla bla, this is all too boring for us, we Mugensuckers like a challenge, and a challenge we have got.

Other than that this is a really nice car.
Holy smokes, I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on the MTX5. I have owned the MTX3, MTX4R, MRX4, VoneRRR, and NT1. After reading this small review of some of the problems, I think I'll just order another in NT1. I also had gear stripping problems with the MTX3 and 4. It's too bad these problems still exist. I really wanted to get a MTX5.
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Last edited by evostyle; 04-08-2012 at 09:21 AM.
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Old 04-08-2012, 09:11 AM   #1973
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Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
You could try the Robert Pietsch EC setup sheet, in theory if you look at it, most things on it seem to suggest a low grip setup, lowered roll centers and soft springs and shocks.


Everyone seems to favor thicker oils of late, 300k front, around 80k rear is popular, I'm keen to try going the other way though, thinner oils used to be popular on the older 4, should make more traction if there is less on track maybe.
always thought the euros with 200 + cars would be high traction...

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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
go back to 200,000wt then. use softer front tyres. should have good steering out of the box

i tried the Robert P setup at an event recently. i didn't like it. Someone told me it is a high grip track setup
my point exactly, but why does he uses the soft springs anyhow?
and no setups for me???
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Old 04-08-2012, 10:26 AM   #1974
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Just about everything on the Robert Pietsch EC sheet seems to read like every low grip setting you can find in the Xray setup guides, why?, no idea, I'd also have guessed the EC would be high traction, but it could just be how he liked to set up his car.


Oh, and huge congrats to Ric Bartolozzi, for taking home the NSW Australian State titles in an MTX5!.
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Old 04-08-2012, 12:09 PM   #1975
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Well , I am in the go kart business for 20 years. Long ago the kart to have more grip you had to make it softer because the chassis was really hard . Now the chassis is very very soft(reminds you something), almost feels like it has a suspension, to get more grip you make it harder, use stub bars seat supports etc.
Do you think is something similar happens to mtx5 as well?
Has anyone tried softer springs? How do they fill?
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Old 04-08-2012, 04:03 PM   #1976
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Originally Posted by prtmotorsport View Post
Well , I am in the go kart business for 20 years. Long ago the kart to have more grip you had to make it softer because the chassis was really hard . Now the chassis is very very soft(reminds you something), almost feels like it has a suspension, to get more grip you make it harder, use stub bars seat supports etc.
Do you think is something similar happens to mtx5 as well?
Has anyone tried softer springs? How do they fill?
i have tried softer springs but have done this allround as to keep a balance front to rear.the big difference i made was to make the front end shorter by 2mm,but haven't tried this as on road at my club seems to have dried up at this stage.
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:29 PM   #1977
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i apply stock setting for my 5 accept to use soft purple spring coz i feel lite blue spring were a bit loose in rear. still not satisfied with the setting and still try to make a small setting changes here and there to improve the car suit to my driving style... is it necessary to use rear weight for more rear grip?
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Old 04-08-2012, 06:34 PM   #1978
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Sure, the silver one works superb, but its more sensitive to adjustments compared to stock one (gold) consistent in long runs I'd say, the black one won't work, to stiff
already tried..silver were superb yo
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:02 AM   #1979
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we ran nsw titles easter car was good did all the right things no gear /belts prob bailey made 2 mistakes all 4 days///1 off //changed to new diff all new steel bits old steel 1 was good and new one has seased or what ever and lasted 2 laps i gess he is pissed of after all the work to get to semi shoud have left old one in it was not broken //peters diff broke disk side off i can see a new cap on cards if you canot race the dam things it will end up under mower after being a GOOD supporter sinse prime 12 i am just about over it
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Old 04-09-2012, 06:27 AM   #1980
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Originally Posted by greg.dawn View Post
we ran nsw titles easter car was good did all the right things no gear /belts prob bailey made 2 mistakes all 4 days///1 off //changed to new diff all new steel bits old steel 1 was good and new one has seased or what ever and lasted 2 laps i gess he is pissed of after all the work to get to semi shoud have left old one in it was not broken //peters diff broke disk side off i can see a new cap on cards if you canot race the dam things it will end up under mower after being a GOOD supporter sinse prime 12 i am just about over it
pissed of pop
Greg from what some MTX5 racers were telling me at the track it seems the 5 has some quality control issues. ie my car was a tank, no broken diffs, gears or spurs, whilst others fast guys and slow guys were breaking stuff. some people are lucky, some aren't with the car. This might point to mugen having Quality Control issues.

the mugen trackside seller told me that he measured a 2 speed shaft and it had three seperate measurements at each end and the centre, whilst another racer said he had one shaft which fitted bearings while with another he was unable to put the bearing through.

Maybe it isn't the car or the design, so much as it is the quality control.

I've also found the plastic to be soft. for example i was lowering the front arm pins and when i was winding down the grub screw it threaded itself with little to no pressure. i probably screwed the grubs screws in and out maybe 4 times in the two races i've used the car

Last edited by TomB; 04-09-2012 at 06:40 AM.
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