MTX 5
#1846
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
No, the outdrive shafts were tight in the diff half holes, one side in particular was very tight/stiff, which would have been what was causing the diff to keep failing.
When I build my own diffs I actually put a tiny bit of grease on the outdrive pins before I slide them into the case, but I don't think that is suggested in the Mugen build manual so I'm guessing most don't do it.
In Greg's case I'm not sure what happened, or what caused it, just it really stuffed up each rebuild he kept doing within the same diff cases.
When I build my own diffs I actually put a tiny bit of grease on the outdrive pins before I slide them into the case, but I don't think that is suggested in the Mugen build manual so I'm guessing most don't do it.
In Greg's case I'm not sure what happened, or what caused it, just it really stuffed up each rebuild he kept doing within the same diff cases.
#1848
Well, at least there is no play. But this can be easily rectified by polishing the shafts. The shafts has to rotate free without play.
Maybe a 6mmm reamer will do the trick?? I don`t know the shafts diameter though.
Maybe a 6mmm reamer will do the trick?? I don`t know the shafts diameter though.
#1849
we tried km aluminium ones same as plastic after saturday we broke a diff every heat standard ones lasted 6 laps now we find out diff plastic bits that out drives go in are way to tight and this is probably the cause of all our diff troubles i though they were tight to stop leaking borrowed one from bishop and with steel already installed and bailey got to run in final with no troubles diff is still real smooth but fuel line came off at start /to lose bloody coloured stuff thanks for lend off diff bishop fellow mugen driver
greg
greg
#1850
Tech Fanatic
diff
out drives were that tight you needed strong hands just to turn them they were not that tight when we put kit together
greg
greg
#1851
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Just weighed my car with 1450 life, one low profile servo (throttle), some ti screws, steel rear diff and it came out to 1705 grams!!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
#1852
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Just weighed my car with 1450 life, one low profile servo (throttle), some ti screws, steel rear diff and it came out to 1705 grams!!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
I think I know you from RAMS, it will be good to see a few Mugens at NorCal.
#1854
Tech Champion
iTrader: (10)
Just weighed my car with 1450 life, one low profile servo (throttle), some ti screws, steel rear diff and it came out to 1705 grams!!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
It seems like the only option for me is maybe finding a 700 mah life battery (if one exist), Titanium pivot balls, and a low profile steering servo. I am not a big fan of the Low profiles for steering as they seem a little too slow for my taste but if i'm gonna make it anywhere close to 1525 , ive gotta loose weight!
i recently purchased the mugen Ti pivot balls (full set). compared to the steel pivot balls the Ti's are 9.3 grams lighter.
with two sanwa VZ servos weight = 120 grams (shortened wires)
with a Sanwa vz and a ko low profile servo = 102.1 (shortened wires)
with two ko propo RSx one10 servos = 101.8 (non shortened wires)
considering you are using lipos you would want to use the ko propo RSxone10 low profile servos.
i have recently eliminated my reciver box and novak regulator. with these items off the car i saved 25 grams.
depending on what servos you use with the above changes you can save 34.3 to 52.2 grams
add to this a full Ti screw kit and you might save another 20 or 30 grams.
add to this ceramic bearing kit and you save more weight. maybe another 10 or 15 grams.
take away the centre weight = another -18 grams.
total of 82.3 grams to 115.2 grams
other options:
-Ti turn buckles
-Capricorn mtx4 cvd shafts
-capricorn Ti arm pins
-nylon pivot ball nuts
-smaller receiver battery
- light weight engine heatsink
#1855
Tech Elite
iTrader: (5)
I'm a little surprised anyone is having trouble being light, possibly choice of running gear, but I'll have to recheck mine once it's ready to go again, as I did notice my new engine is a shade heavier, and the metal rear gear diff is likely to bring up my weight up a bit.
#1856
Tech Adept
so has this diff issue been resolved for you guys? I havent had a problem yet...
#1857
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Hello everyone, the new parts are in from A PLUS RC Products and the Only hobby shop in the USA to have them in stock too sell. The company makes parts for most cars, pullies, arm mounts, servo savers, sway bar mounts and cluches, (clutches have been proven to work)./ A-Plus clutch was used and podiumed in the A main at the Florida Winter Nats three weeks ago.
The pullies are also HARD anodized and the parts are anodized Blue and look nicely machined.
The parts we have now are for the RX8 1/8 X-RAY & MTX5 1/10 Mugen.
We also have the newest tecnology of clutches for 1/10 and 1/8th universal clutch.
I know I will have on my new car, my mugen one work well and these look lighter..
Please go to www.acornracingusa.com for info on the NEW product and other nitro on-road racing product need.
A-Plus products are up on the site now, but I am waiting to recive pricing to post and pictures to add on the site by tomorrow, I hope.
The web mail order is open to use and the inventory is live and accurete. I am a little behind but reciving packages everyday to add invetory.
The grand opening of the site is March 16..
ACORN is for the serious 1/10 & 1/8th On-Road nitro racer.
Thank you Billy
The pullies are also HARD anodized and the parts are anodized Blue and look nicely machined.
The parts we have now are for the RX8 1/8 X-RAY & MTX5 1/10 Mugen.
We also have the newest tecnology of clutches for 1/10 and 1/8th universal clutch.
I know I will have on my new car, my mugen one work well and these look lighter..
Please go to www.acornracingusa.com for info on the NEW product and other nitro on-road racing product need.
A-Plus products are up on the site now, but I am waiting to recive pricing to post and pictures to add on the site by tomorrow, I hope.
The web mail order is open to use and the inventory is live and accurete. I am a little behind but reciving packages everyday to add invetory.
The grand opening of the site is March 16..
ACORN is for the serious 1/10 & 1/8th On-Road nitro racer.
Thank you Billy
#1858
Tech Fanatic
diffs
i have no idea what was wrong with the other 2 diffs but new ones are really good and car has some roll now steel in back and the original ones in front plastic still looks good
greg
greg
#1859