llamont

iTrader: (7)

Thanks.

Wascheck

I have a NTC3 version 2 completely stock and would like to know which upgrades from NTC3 Factory Team are good a option to buy.

FREELANCE_RCer

iTrader: (27)

Go for K-Factory parts for NTC3:
centax clutch and
aluminum front shaft cups (the stock plastic ones will shatter due to high speed).

From Factory Team parts:
front/rear blade stabilizers ('coz it's adjustable).

Wascheck

Thanks...Do you know sore where I can buy it? (I've tried Stormer but the don't have it)

llamont

iTrader: (7)

Hello all

I was at the track yesterday for test and tune when I started having issues with my NTC3. The issue may be engine related but I thought that I would try this thread as it is intended for the NTC3. When I start my engine everything is good, however when I apply brakes the engine dies. Anyone had similar issue/problem and if so what was the solution? The engine is an OS .12 TR. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
Loren

dabro15

iTrader: (10)

It sounds like your linkage isn't set correctly. When you apply brakes the linkage pulls your carb completely shut, cutting off your engine. Just adjust the linkage and you'll be good to go.

wes95_z28

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you just need to bump up your idle screw so carb doesnt close completly.

llamont

iTrader: (7)

Are brake adjustments made via the cam lever's plastic adjustment nuts on the throttle servo???

Thanks
Loren

cheesewhip

iTrader: (15)

I would buy some plastic, not graphite steering knuckles, a arms, and shock towers as you are sure to break them if you race. Plastic pieces will last longer as graphite parts will shatter even if they give you a slightly better handling.

I would get the stainless screw kit from rcscrewz.com, carbon fiber radio plate from ae, RPM front bumper, a receiver pack, good radio like a 3pk, m8, m11, or helios... upgrade later with spectrum or fasst system.. with metal gear steering servo at least. Oh.. a good, dependable .12 racing engine, not a .15, dual chamber tuned pipe... you know, the essential stuff. A good neutral body, good foam tires... I use the stratus body with k factory foams.

Like the person said before, I would look into getting some k factory parts instead of factory team parts. They are better made, practical, and useful to a degree. But ONLY if you have money left over after getting the essential stuff. Bling is not as important as performance upgrades. Also, remember that even though your local hobby shop is a good resource, they have to sell you stuff to pay their bills.... Even stuff you don't need.

There are other things you can do to your car that really doesn't cost a whole lot but makes a world of difference. Polish the pivot balls. Oil the bearings with trinity royal oil. Polish the kingpins. Change shock oils...

cheesewhip

iTrader: (15)

Make sure there's about 1mm or so of gap still when you hit full brakes. Take the air filter off and adjust as necessary (I'm assuming you are not an idiot and you know not to do this when the engine is not on.) by turning the idle screw on the carb.

If the problem persists, there may be binding somewhere, like in the clutch assembly. You need to take the clutch assembly apart, inspect it, and put it back together.

Viper23

Yep had that problem on yesterday with another car. Just bumped up the idle with the idle screw just a little, (about 1/8th of a turn on my engine) and no more stall. I agree with the other post, that if it persists it could be a binding clutch, but I would increase the idle first to see if that does the trick.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Dont get stainless screws, they are useless. Most people dont get that stainless is softer than steel, and it will break easy. What you want to do is get on McMaster and buy 3mm screws, made of steel, I think they call it alloy. The 3mm screw is a tad bigger than the 4-40 and it bites much better on the plastic. When I had mine, the screws on top of the diff cases used to strip right away, until I tried the 3mm ones. Get the flat head ones for the bottom of the chassis too. I think they go for about $10 for a box of 100, something like that.

Viper23

Depends on what you want to do with the car, racing or street running. Either way I would recommend strengthing the front end with "The Fix". This can be done inexpensively as described a few pages back (271?) Highly recommended. The other will increase your handling dramaticly, new tires. If you are going to run on a track I would go with foam and rubber for parking lots and streets. For me this made the most difference in handling. Once the handling got better/easier, it was a lot more fun to drive. After that, spend most of your money on fuel.

cheesewhip

iTrader: (15)

Hey nitrodude,
I was very interested in the screws you mentioned from mcmaster site, but I was only able to find phillips head screws and no hex screws... Do they make hex screws?

FREELANCE_RCer

iTrader: (27)

Try Dinball (rcmart); or Phenix Distributing Inc.; or RC Mushroom.

You can also use centax clutch from Team Magic G4 for your NTC3.