marinefire25

iTrader: (1)

I have a pullstart Collari .12 in my NTC3. Has anyone tried the conversion to non-pullstart? Will I need to change the flywheel? Where is a good source for the backplate and gaskets for the conversion? It looks as if the current flywheel will work but it's just to high to bump start with the current motor mount and pullstart backplate. Does anyone have experience trying to tune the carb for these engines? I can get it to run but keeping it running reliably has been a huge frustration. It sounds awsome for the short time it runs and feels like it should scream if I ever figure it out. Any input for any part of this would be appriciated.

Bundy_Bear

iTrader: (11)

arr see car

iTrader: (13)

Have you guys modified the steering to get rid of the play in the front end.

Did this to mine with mugen parts and got rid of all the ball studs and what a difference it makes in steering. Eliminated all the play in the front end.

You need to mod the front a little. Moving the servo towards the rear. I cut into the rx box so the servo would fit and shaving a bit off the steering system. The part that the drive shaft goes over.

If you want some pix let me know and i'll post them.

Cheers

Taildraggerdave

I'd be interested in seeing the photos. Mine has lots of play...

lil-bump

iTrader: (89)

After awhile the ball studs and cups start to develop play. I used to put the small shock o-rings on the ball stud and then snap the ball cup on( use the RPM ball cups I believe they are little more durable). this get rid of the play but not all. A little cheaper than going with the mugen parts

nteec3

top cat lll what do u mean begginers car it is old but what about the factory team version do u think thats a begginers car sure is old but look at the rest how many times they had to come out with new versions i like how ae has the rtr and f team the same car with different optional parts or better yet a racing car and still rtr car

wizby

The ntc3 has 3 major things against it. #1 The fuel tank offset in the chassis. Balance changes as the fuel load burns off. #2 Excessivly long header pipe. Hurts high rpm power. #3 inefficent shaft drive system. power robbing ring and pinion gears. Dont get me wrong I raced 2 FT's for 4 years. But I also know whats wroong with the design.

Viper23

I don't have your experiance but I would question the inefficency of the car. I am admittantly a slow beginning driver but whe I run out of fuel out on the track the NTC3 glides a lot longer than the belt driven cars. To me this this points to the efficency of the design.
I would also point out a design challenge I keep running into (pun intended), the car is not designed to hold up to the abuse of some of the current crop of popular cars. Tomorrow will be my first time out with the newly installed FIX for the front diff cover. This should help, though my plan is to not hit the boards!

Taildraggerdave

Does anyone run 30mm foams in the front (as opposed to 26mm front/30mm rear) to get more steering??

Seems like an easy way to get more steering but I am currently out of wheels to try it...

Viper23

Never tried it and not sure it would work mechanically. In theory, you are right, you would get more steering but I'm not sure if the inside of the wheels wouldn't rub on the arm or turnbuckle. Let us know what you find out. Additional ways to gain more steering would be to use softer front springs, softer foams and increase the front negative camber. I run at a large wide 1/8th scale track and I've found it easier to get around by going the other way and toning the steering down. Good luck.

topcat-lll

iTrader: (1)

Ntee3

Don't get me wrong, I love the ntc3 and still race it. What I meant by
beginners car ie; the 2.5mm flexo chassis with a huge hole in it for a
pull starter motor (when was the last time a touring car won a national
race with a pull start motor?), beginners proof pivot ball caps that can
not be wear adjusted and the infamous rc10gt dirt stadium truck fuel tank.
All of these are on the rtr and the factory team and will not be found
on a serpent or a mugen.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

Front and rear foam compunds may have the same numbers, but the foam is different.

dabro15

iTrader: (10)

I have a ntc3 and its a great car. But the tc3 is a street car. It wasnt built purely for racing. Its got shaft drives so you know it wasnt built strictly for racing.

Viper23

I too have a NTC3 and love it. But this is an interesting discussion about it being a "real" race car or not. We can't argue the fact that Barry Baker won quite a few races only a few short years ago driveing one. It would be equally hard to argue that Associated has not continued to develop the car as other manufactures have. I enjoy the discussion about the shaft drive vs. belts. As of 3 weeks ago, the car with the fastest lap time at the 301 track was said to be a shaft driven kyosho. Also, I have always been impressed with my NTC3 and his Kyosho when it is power off compared to the popular belt driven cars. The shaft drives really glide. Tells me it has an inhearent efficiency. My last point is winning has everything to do with the one piloting and setting up the car. Seems like every day XRay is announcing another pro is going to drive for them. I wonder how many wins our trusty NTC3 would have if half the pros out there being paid to drive them.

dabro15

iTrader: (10)

The shaft drive on the tc3 is very efficient. I think the shaft gets more power to the wheels then a belt drive system. The one problem about the shaft system is that the engine, fuel tank, etc has to be built around the main shaft making weight distribution not as good as belt drive cars. Belt drive cars have a better weight distribution by having the engine and fuel tank placement centered. Personally I like the shaft drive system better cause no rocks get caught up in it and its efficient. More pros prefer belts cause the belt drive setup allows the engine and fuel tank to be centered making the car handle better.