Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

rookie solara: it might actually be under $75 with pinions included at ultimate since they are having a big sale on yok products, plus its blue and i'm not too sure about this but it should come the the red clutch shoe.

fuk fxr: the yokomo centax cluth was specifically designed for the ntc3 and tested by the AE factory drivers for a couple months and still using it. yokomo actually makes. foam tires specifically for the ntc3 also. I would guess they make these products for the ntce since they import AE into japan.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

If they are indeed selling for only $75, I think I have to get one and sell my Mugen one....
The Yokomo centax come with 20/26 and 21/27 pinion, those are like $40 already....then RED SHOE, that is another $10...
And Perfect fit...no shimming, no mod...............

I just need to make sure it is indeed $75 or even $80, i think that is a good deal.

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

just received my K Factory order from powerlineracing.com

Awesome prices and fast shipping. Looks like they're a division of Brooklyn Hobbies. A little steep on the shipping to the West coast, but great selection of items.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, I do have a bookmakr of Brooklyn hobbies and they have quite a big list of K-Factory parts for NTC3....and their prices are very very good....but I didn't know their shipping are higher then average....

How much did you pay for the entire centax from K-factory..? I don't seem to find that at their site....

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

have they updated the k-factory clutch for the tc3.
I know they updated the g-4 clutch with larger weights. and a
skinnier clutch pad because the first versions weights were not heavy enough and was having a hard time engaging. the updated clutch by kfactory for the g4 works a whole lot better and i have a feeling the parts on the ntc3 and g4 kfactory clutch will be interchangable. just a tip.

CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

Rookie,
I should be stopping by there either tomorrow or sunday. I will check it out. I plan on getting the k fact regular clutch.

i300i

Will this style clutch kit work with the K-Factory low CG fuel tank?

The tank extends further toward the engine than a stock tank, and the centax clutch kits move the engine toward the fuel tank, right?

I'm running the stock FT flywheel and bell parts with a set of MIP shoes with a 12TR R-spec in the spring. Am I going to have slipping problems?

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

The K factory clutch does not move the engine back, it will not affect the fuel tank. It does extend the clutchbell forward slightly, about 3-4mm. If you are running an aluminum lower suspension mount, it will interfere with the clutch bell. Hope that helps.

Rookie Solara, I did not buy a whole clutch assembly from powerlineracing.com just a couple of pinion gears. I bought 2 brand new K Factory clutches off of EBay for less than $60 ea.

FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

Il settle for the Kawahara centax i have someone that is hooking me up with his existing set. I honestly cant wait if you have any tips let me know i guess the centax will also save me from cutting the mspeed crankshaft. By the way do the AE gears fit the kawahara clutchbell or do i have to buy that from kawahara?

Speaking about centax clutch a mate of mine who owns a TG10R told me that the RACY centax also fits the NTC3? What do you think of that unit?

jwf_frani: What are these special tires? Do you have alink or part number?

Rich Panganiban

iTrader: (72)

RD Logics one piece NTC3 pipe on EBay...cheap. Seller is PDLRACING1

That's not me, just passing on some info.

bbntc3

Depending on the engine/pipe you use, you could run into the K-tank rubbing the bottom of the header. It's not bad but it may burn alittle spot in it, but it won't hurt the tank. I've ran into this with mugens/RB and the evo 1 sirio engines.
The K- engine mounts are lower an causes this. You can just file the chassis brace, (taper the bottome side) to get the gear clearance needed, or buy and after market rear chassis braces. I know the BMI Gen2 braces will clear and so will the Hardcore racing rear chassis braces. If K-factory has'nt upgraded the Thrust brg on the end of the clutch, I would advise you to look on ebay for a thrust brg. Theres a guy there who sells brass sealed thrust brgs, the fits all centax clutches. The brg is sealed, you can't take it apart, but... it works very well. I have his email addy if I can find it I'll post it.

FUK_WRX

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys is this part worth getting, what are the advantage of using these parts? And is this for the older rear end or is it for the V2 arms?

ttso

iTrader: (1)

It's for V1 rear, not V2.

I personally hope K-factory can do V2 rear hub in similar material and design with front hub.

btw
I already kill 4 (ya, you read it right) rear hub due to sideslip knock on wall. A advice for all people here: using a LONGER screw on upper link of rear hub. I was using 12mm one but with a small sideslip hit, entire screw will breakthrough the rear hub wall and kill the rear hub. Worst case: because the rear hub is damage, it will also kill the CVD if the car just happen to run at high speed (yes, total casualty count is 4 rear hub + 1 CVD). Now I'm using 15mm and it seems to be much secure and durable than 12mm screw.

bbntc3

I used those K rear hubs and turnbuckles this season before the V2 came out. It's much better than the V1 stuff and theres no turnbuckle compression with the bigger parts. But they will break!! Buy the K- Factory front hubs is anything they are very good. Buy the V2 instead of the K-factory rear hubs.

ttso

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I mean I kill 4 "v2" rear hub already.....

The upright tower on v2 hub really weak compare with other sutff. Probably same fragile as front gearbox-tower. Any small sideslip on the wall will kill it. And you know when u pushing the limit, sideslip always happen...