Rc10ntc3
#7291
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
your help please
Hey guys how are you all
Need a few tips for my NTC3 i just got a M-Speed O.S. CVR (i heard it just as powerful as the JP's) and i was wondering if i would have to gear down to make most out of this motor, if so what gear combinations do you recommend? I race in a track that is semi technical with one main straight and short back straight.
Also can you guys provide me with more info on the Mugen centax clutch for the NTC3, part numbers and shops that carry them.
Many thanks
Need a few tips for my NTC3 i just got a M-Speed O.S. CVR (i heard it just as powerful as the JP's) and i was wondering if i would have to gear down to make most out of this motor, if so what gear combinations do you recommend? I race in a track that is semi technical with one main straight and short back straight.
Also can you guys provide me with more info on the Mugen centax clutch for the NTC3, part numbers and shops that carry them.
Many thanks
#7292
I've been using:
pinions 20,27
spurs 54,48
That's the best you can get from AE gears...
pinions 20,27
spurs 54,48
That's the best you can get from AE gears...
#7294
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Re: your help please
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Hey guys how are you all
Need a few tips for my NTC3 i just got a M-Speed O.S. CVR (i heard it just as powerful as the JP's) and i was wondering if i would have to gear down to make most out of this motor, if so what gear combinations do you recommend? I race in a track that is semi technical with one main straight and short back straight.
Also can you guys provide me with more info on the Mugen centax clutch for the NTC3, part numbers and shops that carry them.
Many thanks
Hey guys how are you all
Need a few tips for my NTC3 i just got a M-Speed O.S. CVR (i heard it just as powerful as the JP's) and i was wondering if i would have to gear down to make most out of this motor, if so what gear combinations do you recommend? I race in a track that is semi technical with one main straight and short back straight.
Also can you guys provide me with more info on the Mugen centax clutch for the NTC3, part numbers and shops that carry them.
Many thanks
If you are interested in a K Factory or Kuwahara centax PM me & I can get you set.
#7295
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Re: Re: your help please
Originally posted by soc123_au
What track are you running at, & I will give you the ratio. The Mugen centax is not specificly for a NTC3, it is just the MTX3 clutch.
If you are interested in a K Factory or Kuwahara centax PM me & I can get you set.
What track are you running at, & I will give you the ratio. The Mugen centax is not specificly for a NTC3, it is just the MTX3 clutch.
If you are interested in a K Factory or Kuwahara centax PM me & I can get you set.
#7296
Werks pipe tested today
Today is a sunny day (typhoon just passed yesterday) and I finally got chance to test Werks pipe (with my Picco .12 XP 5ports).
Compare with mod AE pipe (manifold -11mm), the Werks pipe has similar topend (top speed about the same, maybe a very little bit faster). However, the bottom is much smooth and liner than my mod AE pipe. The car is now less punch and probably the reaction speed is a bit slower, but I like the smooth bottom rather than hard to control rocket. I don't consider the bottom is "weak", but "more liner".
Best part: I got ZERO flameout today (25% fuel), which is impossible with AE pipe, mod or stock. And engine performance is very consistence. I did no re-tune on engine in 4hrs testing, which also impossible with AE pipe, mod or stock.
Overall, I think the pipe probably will has a better performance on more powerful engine (Picco .12 XP 5ports is very stock, compare with those JP/Max/Mega monster). And I will stick with it since I had enough with unpredictable AE pipe (and hell, it looks GOOD ).
Compare with mod AE pipe (manifold -11mm), the Werks pipe has similar topend (top speed about the same, maybe a very little bit faster). However, the bottom is much smooth and liner than my mod AE pipe. The car is now less punch and probably the reaction speed is a bit slower, but I like the smooth bottom rather than hard to control rocket. I don't consider the bottom is "weak", but "more liner".
Best part: I got ZERO flameout today (25% fuel), which is impossible with AE pipe, mod or stock. And engine performance is very consistence. I did no re-tune on engine in 4hrs testing, which also impossible with AE pipe, mod or stock.
Overall, I think the pipe probably will has a better performance on more powerful engine (Picco .12 XP 5ports is very stock, compare with those JP/Max/Mega monster). And I will stick with it since I had enough with unpredictable AE pipe (and hell, it looks GOOD ).
#7297
Registered User
Never tried the yok centax, only centax I've used us the K-factory. It burnt 2 thrust washer out very fast, changed over to a sealed brass thrust washer and never had any more troubles. ANy centax is good for adjustability But on short tracks the K-clutch seems to small and tends to over heat, there not good for short tracks. I would say get mugen set up. I use the K- 3 shoe clutch combo and have very good results with alittle modding. (afew 1/16th holes drilled in the shoes). The AE clutch will over heat and slip sometimes. Alot of times I've seen the oneway brg slip on the 2 speed shaft cause you to think the clutch was slipping.
#7298
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Coool thanks noticed your from japan are you using MSPEED engine also?
Coool thanks noticed your from japan are you using MSPEED engine also?
I spoilt my massimo novamax engine... but the crankshaft still in superb condition... so I polished the crankshaft placed it in my NSR..
#7299
I've been using AE original clutch shoe with some modification.. it works well. To me... it works better than the centax clutch...
The shaft driven cars such as NTC3 can run perfectly on clutch shoe and bell.. some modification required depending on track layout and condition of course..
.. my simple clutching mod:
1. Lighten the clutchbell - drill holes on the standard AE clutch bell (8 number of 4mm holes)
2. Change to 3 shoes type flywhell
3. Use 3 cluth shoes
4. Change to stiffer copper clutch springs
5. Cut the cluth shoe make it shorter by +- 4mm
6. Cut the inner part of clutch shoe to make it rest closer to the shaft... this will make the clutch enggange at higher RPM..
The shaft driven cars such as NTC3 can run perfectly on clutch shoe and bell.. some modification required depending on track layout and condition of course..
.. my simple clutching mod:
1. Lighten the clutchbell - drill holes on the standard AE clutch bell (8 number of 4mm holes)
2. Change to 3 shoes type flywhell
3. Use 3 cluth shoes
4. Change to stiffer copper clutch springs
5. Cut the cluth shoe make it shorter by +- 4mm
6. Cut the inner part of clutch shoe to make it rest closer to the shaft... this will make the clutch enggange at higher RPM..
#7300
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Originally posted by Jap TC3
No.. I'm running RB Rody tuned V12 and Novarossi NSR S5 with Massimo Fantini modified crankshaft..
I spoilt my massimo novamax engine... but the crankshaft still in superb condition... so I polished the crankshaft placed it in my NSR..
No.. I'm running RB Rody tuned V12 and Novarossi NSR S5 with Massimo Fantini modified crankshaft..
I spoilt my massimo novamax engine... but the crankshaft still in superb condition... so I polished the crankshaft placed it in my NSR..
By the way man what would you choose the Kawahara centax or the K factory unit?
#7301
I would still prefer the AE clutch over centrifugal clutch..
#7303
Originally posted by Jap TC3
I would still prefer the AE clutch over centrifugal clutch..
I would still prefer the AE clutch over centrifugal clutch..
#7304
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Any particular reason
Any particular reason
I keep:
1 clutch set for high rpm track ... light short 3 clutch shoe cut inside and outside 4mm w stiff springs
1 cluth set for slippery track ... 2 shoe with standard spring
1 for combo track condition ... 3 shoes cut outside 3mm w stiff springs
Once you get your clutch setting correct, stick to it.. improve the cluth bell ... lighten it and make light groove at the clutch contact surface... good luck
#7305
The only thing I don't like about Centax is it's a bit heavier than stock 3shoes. But since my car already very under-weight, a little extra weight on Centax is fine for me.
I think the better way to decide is to see if your clutch suffer a great deal of slippy problem, mine did. If that happen, than Centax is the only solic solution, in my opinion.
I think the better way to decide is to see if your clutch suffer a great deal of slippy problem, mine did. If that happen, than Centax is the only solic solution, in my opinion.