boner

iTrader: (4)

DJ
If you look thru some of the old post, you will see people are taking about cuting the threaded section crankshaft. AE cars require short shaft, the fantom you got is probably standard shaft. I'm not so sure how much you need to cut it off, I'm sure someone in here will give you an answer or if you dig back to the old post you will find it.

If you engine have not run yet, take it to McCoy, I'm sure he will swap with a short shaft or cut the shaft for you. Since this is your first Nitro, you need to break in and tune your engine before you race. I heard he does a decent job on tuning. When your engine is break, in you can ask him to help you tune the engine to the ball park and then fine tune it at the track.

So, am I expecting to see you this sunday?? Don't forget practice is on saturday 12 to 5pm good time to fine tune your car.

DJ_GenR8

Thanks lee......I was thinking about cutting the shaft, but I didn't know if it was the right thing to do...I'll do it today @ work. Yes, I'll be there sunday, but I gotta work saturday....thanks!

GregH

Does anyone know what the drive ratio is for the ntc3? Using the same inside gears as the TC3, I'd think they would be the same 2.5 ratio.

Tmblewd

The ratio is still the same as the TC3.

bbntc3

Tmblewd: Try and gear it lower, 20/54 and 24/50. Stock gearing to high for the short tracks. This way all you have to do is change the clutch bell gears. It's a good gear for 90 to 125 straight aways.

GT4: The ratio is 2.5. So spur gear divided by clutchbell x 2.5 will give you a final drive ratio

Tmblewd

BB - I geared the car at 20/54 and 22/52. It still screams. I'm going out to the track on Sat and try it out. It's a small track and I do mean small.

Impreza

Hey guys.

I will be getting my NTC3 very soon. I am wondering what are you guys breaking most? What spare parts would you recommend keeping?

Is the carbon upgrade worth it? What benefits does it offer? Lighter? Stronger?

Thanks...

OB42TC3

The bumper will break. NO worry though just use the foam it should be sufficient. The most common breakage is the shock tower and diff case junction. It is also possible to break any other part including chassis, suspension arms, pivot balls, tie rods, axle carriers, bearing races fractured, you name it. The only way to completely cover the spares is to get an extra kit. Speaking of my kit though, I have been to 2 club races and a Midwest series race and I haven't broken a part besides the kydex bumper that everyone breaks(actually it isn't really broken-just a small crack). Point is that if you hit the solid boards solidly any car will break, so don't do it, hit the brakes, let off, etc. I see so many people do that; car gets out of shape they stay in it and WHAHCK! -race over. My racing buddy however; has broken a diff case, shock tower, wheel bearing, a-arm, suspension pin(lower!), tie rod, etc.

Boomer

Great advice - if it hurts or breaks, STOP DOING IT!!! heh heh

ChristopherKee

iTrader: (28)

The carbon upgrade is nice to have. I used the kit as my spare parts (no reason to change out good parts).

As for the shock towers and diff cases. I ran 4 (two in each diff) 4-40x1 1/4 screws with washers down the guide holes of the Shock tower into the diff case (replacing the 2 screws) for added support. It has worked out well.


(similar to this picture but I did both sides)

Dubro Socket Head screws are the correct size screw and I used the washers from the servo mount kit.

I replace all the aluminum CVD bones with MIP Shiny CVD Bones. I kept bending the blue ones and the MIP's are stronger and cheaper.

I managed to break both front turnbuckles so I replaced them all with the Titanium Turnbuckle Kit.

I bent the lower pivot balls 4 different times. They are now all replaced with the Associated Titanium Pivot Balls.

I managed to break the fuel tank in half last race. The bumper broke off and pushed into the side of it.

Besides all that. I don't think you need many spare parts. An extra NTC3 is always a good idea. You get every screw etc. Plus you'll eventually need a new frame and diff rebuilds.

AND... Before people start flaming me. I don't crash that much and I'm not saying the car is fragile. We have some very narrow lanes and parts of the pipes protrude out and catch the car just right. + we have 20 plus competitive drivers always fighting for position with no motor limits.

Boomer

No flames! But, boy, you guys seem to be a great "durability test" for this thing! How on Earth did you manage to break the fuel tank! That one must have been a good one. . .

bbntc3

I bought the carbon kit at a good deal so I could have most the spare parts. I think the carbon stuff is lighter and stronger, but you'll hear pros and cons on that issue. I went ahead and replaced all the suspension with the carbon stuff, added the Hardcore Racing upperdeck and driveshaft, and brake hub, I also machined down a Hardcore alum front diff input hub . I weighed the car before and after the mods, and after spending $200 for the mods I removed exactly 1 oz. of weight. I really don't think 1 oz. of weight loss was worth $200 , but it sure looks good!!!!!
Tmblewd: Go to a 24/50 second gear. With a 22/52 second your really not changing the ratio that much from 1st gear, no wonder it still screams!!!!
Chris kee: I sorta did the same thing, but I added a small alum. plate across the tower and drilled 3 holes for the 2 diff screws and the center screw for the tower. I tried your method but it did'nt seem to me to really do anything, the tower could still flex, thus letting the shocktower screws loosen . By adding the plate and bolting it to the diff in the center hole it's a solid one piece unit. Sorta overkill but will work great with the abuse the cars sees on short tracks . Let us know if the towers still work loose your way, and I'll do the same for my method. Your way is alittle lighter. Did you use some type of tubing for spacers between the diff and towers? I used 3/16th alum tubing, tapering the diff end of the tubing for the side clearance against the diff, and cutting the other end off flush with the top of the tower, or against the alum plate.
I also used 4/40 all thread with blue alum nuts instead of bolts, the all thread posed as a stud so theres a less chance of it working loose versus bolts.
A man could also file the shock tower down level where the 2 top shocktower screws go and add tubing, studs, nuts and washers here and maybe elimanate our method.

Tmblewd

BB - With the 24/50 second gear, I'd be into the wall. The tracks here are not long enough to allow it. I have enough probs getting it stopped in the parking lot where I practice. I'm going out to the track this weekend and I'll measure the straight. But, from what I have seen, it's only about 80 feet. LOL, the conv would work great on it, too bad I sold it!!

DJ_GenR8

Ok....got my car runnning and everything is great....The car is sweet!!!!!! Lots of steering, and not a bad setup out of the box....cant wait to tune the suspension a bit....anyways, heres my problem........

.....I cant get my 2 speed to work properly! I dont hear it shifting at all, and no matter how I adjust it, I can't get it to work. I played with it for about 2 hours today with no luck. I tightened it all the way, and turned it back 3 1/2 turns like the manual says. I ended up loosening it almost 3 full turns and it still didn't work. I don't know where I possibly could have done something wrong....it was pretty straight forward to put together. Is there anything you guys can think of that I can try? I'm going to run it again tomorrow and try and tune it in, but so far I haven't been able to make it work at all.........Help!

rmac

Be patient, it will take a couple of runs to break it in. Go back and clean the shoes as is mentioned in the manual after a couple of runs.
I know it is difficult to hear it shift that is because it is a clutch type 2 speed and the overall smoothness of the drive train. I was fortunate enough to go to a large track with no one else running and finally found out that yes, it is shifting.