Niklas Edlund

Remember to add some blue loctite to the short screws that holds the 2-speed gears. Use loctite aloso when mounting the brake bracket and alu bulkhead. You can also mount a silicone oring, one on each pin between the pads. Helps the pads pull apart when not braking, I had an idea to use the Hardcore aluminium brake disk / drive cup but the slots for the driveshaft where to small so I used the standard one. The drive shaft hole is not exactly in the center on the std plastic one so the shaft will wobble a little. Chamfered the corners to allow a lower throttle servo (Futaba S9550).

Niklas Edlund

I think it was Cyrul that used this tip on the electric car (when driving TC3). The bearings-fit is a little sloppy, so by druilling a few carefully positioned holes one can fit small 4-40 grub screws to carfully remove play in the bearing seats. I used a 2.5 mm drill. On the rear box cover you only need one screw (pictured to the left).

Niklas Edlund

Here's the new wide bumper included in all Version 2 cars - #2223.

bbntc3

Dave: Dennis Richey don't do alot of public work anymore, unless your special! You'll be able to buy his work from RD LODGICS soon, Matt at Smeltz is sick and doing very little engine work.
Go to the engine zone forum and look under Palmaris Racing, PM Topgun777 and tell him what you need, he can help you, he even mods used engines, and that's rare! He has long rod kits for the long rod engines at a very good price. And he does top notch work! Well I'm very pleased.
Niklas: So what did Baker do to use the blade on the rear, version 1? just use front a arms? I never use a bar on the rear, I guess never been to a real high bite track. BB

Solara

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for all the clarification.....and I am looking forward to convert my last year V1 NTC3 to the V2 with the updated 2-speed clutch and lightweight housing.....thanks.
Beside, our local track is actually letting us running the newest small block 15 engine....and I just got the Sirio 15 5 port turbo and give it a try.....I am sure stripping gears is what I will expect on that engine (it is a high torque off-road use engine.....but 1.7hp for $150 is too good pass....)

Niklas Edlund

bbntc3: It was last year so it was the "old" Version 1 suspension. You need to remove quite a lot of material on the lower gearbox, including the tabs for the normal swaybar. Also use front arms in the rear + some small spacers behind the bar holders. You also must have a really straight chassit as you can not longer tweak it with any swaybar. If you use the standard adjustable swaybar (#1715) it will also be very hard in the rear. Look at the picture I added earlier an you'll see that I Dremeled the blades down to about half width. Actually the traction in Portugal was'nt that high - I think they stuck with it because you'll need to change back to another gearbox if you want to use the std one again... In the new Version 2 rear suspension you have the chance to test it quite easy though.

tabs

just a question for the NTC3 veterans (i mean that in a nice way), i've been running the NTC3 for a couple of months now, its great but i always have to rebuild the ball diffs, for some reason i always dry up the diffs after each day of racing, is this normal? any tips to make it last or am i just gonna have to do this diff rebuild every end of race day? im using all stock items in the ball diffs except for addition of carbide balls.

to minimize diff rebuilds, i tried using solid axles in front, i love the way it works now, but they said it has a down side and this is the premature breaking of the MIP bones, is this true? any tips on how it can be remedied? pls help, i really dont like one-ways, for some reason it does not suite my driving style.

thanks in advance guys!

nitrosaurus

what is the difference between the associated one-way and the yokomo one-way for the NTC3? Are they the same?

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Yokomo one way is bigger.

Dust

If the diff is dry, use bearing grease. Don't use too much, because it will lock up the differential

Yep-Man

Blown up diffs. That is common. I have seen many of those. But if you ask asc. there is no problem with the diffs. At least they are not hard to redo!

bbntc3

Solid front diff and stock cvd, won't last. I used MIP shinys with them and they never twisted. I have twisted many a set of blue cvds out of the car. Alot of Hp will also twist them. Most cases though the cvds are twisted due to on throttle impact with walls! LOL The shinys work well but theres alot of rotating mass to deal with. I'm using GPM Titanium CVDs now, and so far so good. And less weight.
I usewhat AE says to use in the diffs, but add alittle electralyte greese to the ring and pinion, this seems to help from drying out. Use the white gears, not the gray, and shim it properly! diff will last a long time, and remember when you bounce off the wall try and remember to get off the throttle! This is what also strips most diffs.

soc123_au

iTrader: (2)

Be carefull of the GPM Ti CVDs, I had a set & they flogged out at the joint where the pin goes through. One of them let go at an important race in the final while I was in the lead with only 5 mins to go. It was very depressing to see my wheel & half the joint beat the car down the straight. It let go under power but with no impact. They had only had about 2 hours of running & had no big hits.

no4hitter

iTrader: (5)

Where do you get the electralyte greese? Sounds like something I would like to try. Also anybody else have any problems with the Gpm Ti CVD's? I was thinking of trying these out also. I run a one-way in the front with a modded NS12s3. Thanks

tabs

thanks for all the tips & info guys, appreciate it!