CHUCKMANDO

iTrader: (4)

200' pls, thats what I'm talking. I bash on a lot layed out for 1/8s. I run out of gear a little too early. Edison too is about 235' from what I was told and is made more for 1/8s. I will be hitting Jackson NJ this year and will use my smeltz x12. Tracks is smaller. Since I got rid of my mrx3, I just put in all my electronics from that car into the tc3. I have had a constant centering problem all last year. I just dealt with it. I belive I read the new car addressed the steering. Just wondering if that is so. I will try and hit my lhs latter after testing today.

Niklas Edlund

Just started to build the V2 car. Dont know how much of these I will have time to publish but I'll try and give you some of my ideas and tips as the assembly continues... Maybee you'll even see a finished car sometime? :-)

Front end
The FT comes with FT-BB's for the complete car, so the steering are assembled with these. use some blue loctite for the short screws for the posts. Personally I pre-tap all 4-40 holes with a K&S tap. Just a couple of turns though, just to get the thread started. Replaced the lower gearbox screws with longer ones, 1.25" for the rear holes (will use the AEfix here, more later) and 5/8" for the front two. The V2 comes with a wide lower bumper (like RPM) but I'm not using it. I'll use the old small one and a "modified" foam bumper. The new wide one looks good also - you'll make your own choice when building your own FT! I'll also be using the polished hinge pin set instead of the std black pins. I also sliced the ends of the roll-bars so it will be easier to adjust (as mentioned earlier). I also use the std plastic holders, not the included aluminium ones. Remember to de-burr the grub-screw hole (plastic flashes in the bottom of the hole will make it hard to get a good feel for tightening the screws).

Niklas Edlund

Another view of the front end. Plastic nuts on the steering posts exchanged to the small AE alu locknuts.

Niklas Edlund

Here's a picture of the "V1" rear end with an adjustable swaybar. We first saw that on Barrys car that Craig drove at the EC in portugal last year. They incorporated that feature as std on the new V2 cars now. The adjustable bar is an option though (for very high traction also).

Niklas Edlund

Not much to say here, use longer 5/8 screws from the bottom, it will help pulling the threads... I also slightly moved the two holes for holding the rear swaybar. Drilled new 2.5 mm holes slightly off-center so I could use 4-40 screws instead of 2-56.

Niklas Edlund

Oops forgott the picture.

Niklas Edlund

BTW, the servo saver spring in the FT is the thicker/harder #6587 - in the upcoming new other V2 kits and RTR-Plus is the softer #3929 spring.

Dave Walton

iTrader: (5)

BBNTC3 you talked about some engine work. Topgun 777. My ? is do they work on any engines or is this someone you just have a connection with. I run on a short track. 135 straight thats it. I would be intrested in having an engine work over for that. If you can give my some answers It would be great. Thanks Dave.

Solara

iTrader: (17)

What is V2? Is there a V1...? And P1 (from above)...? I know FT is the Factory Team....but is V2 = FT...? V2 = Version 2? And I don't need to know RTR.........

Just want to understand the whole short term thing.....thanks

Skoob

Heya, i've got a question..

money's a little bit low, but i should be getting everything else i need to run the car within the next month, but i won't be able to buy a body (from my friend) who's gonna paint it for a while after that..

the thing is, i do have an old 190mm body from my old electric car that i never used..so what i did was i slapped it on the ntc3, cut hte holes for the mounts and tune pipe, and then i cut the wheel bases and bumpers on both sides, eventually i got it to fit, so the wheels turn freely and when i move it forward/backward nothin hits..

Will this work fine? it's not for racing or anything, just for some fun for me

Niklas Edlund

Rookie: If you look at the earlier page in this thread, you'll se some info on the new Factory Team Nitro TC3 car (with V2 rear suspension). Also check here:
http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...c3/kitntc3.htm
http://www.rc10.com/shusting/Catalog...NTC3_parts.htm

From AE all of their NTC3 cars vill be with the new version 2 rear suspension and some other running-changes. Check the earlier posts and you'll even see most of the new partnumbers if you want to buy them separately for your current NTC3. (That would be a version 1 car.)

The "P1" in my header only ment Page 1. Next building session will be Page 2... I'll post more FT (V2) building tips tonight.

Skoob

Well, here's some pics of my car..

A couple notes: I suck at all types of art, unless its pissing in the snow..other than that, i was a effing noob and didn't realise till after that when you paint car bodies, the "primer" is actually supposed to be backing, so it goes ono LAST..oops, i was used to building minature's and paiting them wher the primer goes on first..oh well..

so i had to paint the body on the outside, and btw its done by hand with minature model paint x.x

oh, and the wheels came white, i painted those, and other than that..it was a 190mm body, but i did a little bit of..fixing, shall we say, to get it to fit right..

it looks a lot better in person btw, its a lot shinier..i can see myself in it as i type 0_o





Oh yea, my favorite part about it is the front headlights..mixed a little blue into the white, came out pretty nice for my skills at paiting anyway..

oh and what would happen if i painted just the tip of the muffler that comes out? would it effect it at all? i wanted it to match better than just the silver sticking out..like would it make it heat up to much or anything? thanks

Niklas Edlund

The FT come with the lastest HD one-way front axle. Use some blue loctite when mounting the gear.

Pro tip: Clean out the grease on the one-way bearings with brake-cleaner or motorspray. Lube them with a drop or two each with Serpent #1680 lube. I also carefully cut the edges on the gear at an small angle, it seems that there is a chance that they will bottom out on the small drive pinion. Increasing the drag possibly...

Building the rear diff. is no problem, just follow the manual really. If you feel like it, follow the tip above and cut the teeth-edges on the diff gear.

Niklas Edlund

Picture on front. Using an aluminium drivecup from GH (#2416) for a little extra safety.

Niklas Edlund

The new updated 2-speed gearbox has new shoes wich can be identified with the cut-out so one can easy see the spring. Pro tip: Flush the one-way bearing with brake-cleaner spray or motorspray. Use some #1680 oil from Serpent. The lightweight FT oneway is an option (blue in the picture) - #1700.