INFERN0

iTrader: (4)

Well I use the same engine and have no play but I did shim it to allow for .2mm of play so it does not blow bearings.

Kaliboy

Does anybody know where I can get a one way for my NTC3? All the local shops are out and it seems that all the online places are out. I need one quick. Thanks,

Jeff

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

Call Cruizin' with RC's in Ramsey NJ.....201-825-4884.....I work next door....Ask for Ron Bosco(the owner)......tell him Fastharry told you to call.....I work next door....He might have one in stock...I got one and i think he ordered extra's.......Don't tell him how much you love your Tc3.....he's a real Impulse guy,and the tc3 onslaught is making him mental......If he has one,I'll send it out Priority mail for you....

Kaliboy

Thanks. About the impulse thing, I know what you mean. Alot of guys that used to run the Impulse around here have switched over to the NTC3 and are quite content with it. Hopefully he has one in stock. I'll be flying out Thurs morning for good ole sunny California.

Z Man

iTrader: (18)

Have any of you had a shock tower come loose. After my club race today a friend and my front shock towers were pulled out of the diff housing. neither car had a hard hit on the front end.

Jack Smash

iTrader: (35)

AMS hobbies should have one in stock.
Call 775 - 786-7733 after 10:00am west coast time.

Kaliboy

Fastharry: Thanks again for the info. I gave him a call today and he said that he would get it out today. I also gave him a hard time too! Although....he did imply that he was whooping your a$$. C'mon man. Whoop some Serpent a$$. BTW...are you going to the Hpi Challenge this year? Hopefullly I'll get to meet you up there. Also thinking about running the Trinity race at American Raceway.

Jeff

Babblefish

Although mine hasen't come loose yet, several friends have had this problem. From what we can see, the cause is the stupid fine thread screws that are used to hold the car together. You may also have problems with the diff cases coming apart due to the same thing. Eventually, the holes that the screws go into will strip out which means you'll either have to buy new parts or find a way of restoring the hole sizes. I would suggest either using longer screws or screws with a coarse thread. I think someone at Associated screwed up big time with this one.

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Fine thread screws are actually better since they give you more surface area to clamp with. Self tapping screws wear out faster since they tend to strip after being torqued a few times. The shock towers coming loose is prob. more due to the tolerances on the screw holes being too big or overtightening the screws the first time. When you assemble the cases and towers only tighten the screws until they're just snug, no more. I ran an electric TC3 for a year and half and only changed diff cases once and that was to install the plastic diffs.

Babblefish

Actually, fine thread screws have less "bite" than coarse threaded screws - meaning the threads don't cut as deeply (don't forget, we're talking plastic here). This makes it easier to strip the threads in the plastic parts. Two of the biggest mistakes people make when tightening screws is 1) too much torque for a given screw size/material and 2) cross threading when re-assembling. Number 2 is really easy to do into plastic. For mechanical newbies, when reinstalling a screw, turn it backwards (counterclockwise) a few degrees before screwing it in. By doing this, you'll feel the threads of the screw catch the mating threads so that there's less chance of cross threading. But then some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox...

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

I disagree, fine thread has more surface area to "grab" with due to having more threads in the same space compared to a self tap screw. It's similar to the difference between using nails or screws to hold things together. The coarse fastener (nail or self tap) has to force the material out of the way to seat into the hole. As a result you get a "joint" that has much lower integral strength and tends to loosen easier under use. Ever notice how your driver's stand that was built with nails needs some "tightening" occasionally due to the nails working out of their holes? The same idea applies to self tap or coarse thread screws. More threads equals greater clamping force and greater holding strength. I'm sure one of you engineering types can back me up on this.

INFERN0

iTrader: (4)

Well there is some truth in what you are both trying to say.A coarse thread screw bites harder into the material cuz the thread cuts deeper into its mate surface but at the loss of contact area whereas the fine thread screw will bite into more material and make a better contact surface but at the loss of deep lag hold.Niether one is easy to strip if just pulled upon and both can be cross threaded but it is easier to cross thread the fine thread and that is why it has a bad rap for use on plastics.I use 4-40 screws on most of the plastic stuff on my cars and trucks but I have fine thread screws going into the diff cases of my storm on the bottom of the car and no problems here.

Babblefish

Well said Mr. Inferno.
A good example of coarse thread vs fine thread is in the Tamiya cars. Tamiya uses coarse, and I have never had one pull out on it's own. Another example is in my full size car. All of the fasteners that secure into various plastic parts are coarse threads.
By the way, I am an "engineering type".
Let's get back to hobby talk.

OB42TC3

This car rocks! But seriously though OSU BSME aside, from my experience, replacing the 4-40s with 3 mm fine thread provides much better clamp force. I think the reasoning would be the increased surface area on the 3 mm. Anyway here's what I'm doing on the front tower with a 3 mm..

MtX2ImPuLsEr

Sup guys im now a Ntc3 owner-

I just got done building and setting up the Ntc3.. right now im having trouble setting up all the camber and toe. I tried using the Hudy but the wheel axles are too thick to fit in the guages. On the setup tool they give you with the ntc3 how do you know if your setup is correct for toe and camber for front and back because im kinda confused and its really ticking me off. If anyone can help and give me some tips to setup with toe and camber for front/rear i appreciate it.
Thanks in Advance