R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-27-2002, 01:20 PM   #526
Tech Master
 
INFERN0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Langley, B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,913
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Well I use the same engine and have no play but I did shim it to allow for .2mm of play so it does not blow bearings.
__________________
Proudly driving for Kyosho America, Team Maclan and RC Pitstop
INFERN0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2002, 07:02 PM   #527
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 135
Send a message via AIM to Kaliboy
Default

Does anybody know where I can get a one way for my NTC3? All the local shops are out and it seems that all the online places are out. I need one quick. Thanks,

Jeff
Kaliboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2002, 08:06 PM   #528
Tech Elite
 
fastharry™'s Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Mahwah, NJ.. USA!! ..... Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,846
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Send a message via Skype™ to fastharry™
Default

Call Cruizin' with RC's in Ramsey NJ.....201-825-4884.....I work next door....Ask for Ron Bosco(the owner)......tell him Fastharry told you to call.....I work next door....He might have one in stock...I got one and i think he ordered extra's.......Don't tell him how much you love your Tc3.....he's a real Impulse guy,and the tc3 onslaught is making him mental......If he has one,I'll send it out Priority mail for you....
fastharry™ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2002, 10:51 PM   #529
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 135
Send a message via AIM to Kaliboy
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Call Cruizin' with RC's in Ramsey NJ.....201-825-4884.....I work next door....Ask for Ron Bosco(the owner)......tell him Fastharry told you to call.....I work next door....He might have one in stock...I got one and i think he ordered extra's.......Don't tell him how much you love your Tc3.....he's a real Impulse guy,and the tc3 onslaught is making him mental......If he has one,I'll send it out Priority mail for you....
Thanks. About the impulse thing, I know what you mean. Alot of guys that used to run the Impulse around here have switched over to the NTC3 and are quite content with it. Hopefully he has one in stock. I'll be flying out Thurs morning for good ole sunny California.
Kaliboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2002, 10:58 PM   #530
Tech Adept
 
Z Man's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Tacoma
Posts: 184
Trader Rating: 11 (100%+)
Default

Have any of you had a shock tower come loose. After my club race today a friend and my front shock towers were pulled out of the diff housing. neither car had a hard hit on the front end.
Z Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2002, 12:32 AM   #531
Tech Elite
 
Jack Smash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 2,897
Trader Rating: 29 (100%+)
Default

AMS hobbies should have one in stock.
Call 775 - 786-7733 after 10:00am west coast time.
Jack Smash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2002, 12:16 PM   #532
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: San Diego, CA.
Posts: 135
Send a message via AIM to Kaliboy
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by fastharry
Call Cruizin' with RC's in Ramsey NJ.....201-825-4884.....I work next door....Ask for Ron Bosco(the owner)......tell him Fastharry told you to call.....I work next door....He might have one in stock...I got one and i think he ordered extra's.......Don't tell him how much you love your Tc3.....he's a real Impulse guy,and the tc3 onslaught is making him mental......If he has one,I'll send it out Priority mail for you....
Fastharry: Thanks again for the info. I gave him a call today and he said that he would get it out today. I also gave him a hard time too! Although....he did imply that he was whooping your a$$. C'mon man. Whoop some Serpent a$$. BTW...are you going to the Hpi Challenge this year? Hopefullly I'll get to meet you up there. Also thinking about running the Trinity race at American Raceway.

Jeff
Kaliboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2002, 01:41 PM   #533
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 33
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Z Man
Have any of you had a shock tower come loose. After my club race today a friend and my front shock towers were pulled out of the diff housing. neither car had a hard hit on the front end.
Although mine hasen't come loose yet, several friends have had this problem. From what we can see, the cause is the stupid fine thread screws that are used to hold the car together. You may also have problems with the diff cases coming apart due to the same thing. Eventually, the holes that the screws go into will strip out which means you'll either have to buy new parts or find a way of restoring the hole sizes. I would suggest either using longer screws or screws with a coarse thread. I think someone at Associated screwed up big time with this one.
Babblefish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2002, 05:39 PM   #534
Tech Elite
 
Rick Vessell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

Fine thread screws are actually better since they give you more surface area to clamp with. Self tapping screws wear out faster since they tend to strip after being torqued a few times. The shock towers coming loose is prob. more due to the tolerances on the screw holes being too big or overtightening the screws the first time. When you assemble the cases and towers only tighten the screws until they're just snug, no more. I ran an electric TC3 for a year and half and only changed diff cases once and that was to install the plastic diffs.
Rick Vessell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2002, 06:10 PM   #535
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 33
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by JonnySocko
Fine thread screws are actually better since they give you more surface area to clamp with. Self tapping screws wear out faster since they tend to strip after being torqued a few times. The shock towers coming loose is prob. more due to the tolerances on the screw holes being too big or overtightening the screws the first time. When you assemble the cases and towers only tighten the screws until they're just snug, no more. I ran an electric TC3 for a year and half and only changed diff cases once and that was to install the plastic diffs.
Actually, fine thread screws have less "bite" than coarse threaded screws - meaning the threads don't cut as deeply (don't forget, we're talking plastic here). This makes it easier to strip the threads in the plastic parts. Two of the biggest mistakes people make when tightening screws is 1) too much torque for a given screw size/material and 2) cross threading when re-assembling. Number 2 is really easy to do into plastic. For mechanical newbies, when reinstalling a screw, turn it backwards (counterclockwise) a few degrees before screwing it in. By doing this, you'll feel the threads of the screw catch the mating threads so that there's less chance of cross threading. But then some people can break a crowbar in a sandbox...
Babblefish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2002, 07:40 AM   #536
Tech Elite
 
Rick Vessell's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Mars
Posts: 2,302
Trader Rating: 9 (100%+)
Default

I disagree, fine thread has more surface area to "grab" with due to having more threads in the same space compared to a self tap screw. It's similar to the difference between using nails or screws to hold things together. The coarse fastener (nail or self tap) has to force the material out of the way to seat into the hole. As a result you get a "joint" that has much lower integral strength and tends to loosen easier under use. Ever notice how your driver's stand that was built with nails needs some "tightening" occasionally due to the nails working out of their holes? The same idea applies to self tap or coarse thread screws. More threads equals greater clamping force and greater holding strength. I'm sure one of you engineering types can back me up on this.
Rick Vessell is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2002, 12:11 PM   #537
Tech Master
 
INFERN0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Langley, B.C. Canada
Posts: 1,913
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Well there is some truth in what you are both trying to say.A coarse thread screw bites harder into the material cuz the thread cuts deeper into its mate surface but at the loss of contact area whereas the fine thread screw will bite into more material and make a better contact surface but at the loss of deep lag hold.Niether one is easy to strip if just pulled upon and both can be cross threaded but it is easier to cross thread the fine thread and that is why it has a bad rap for use on plastics.I use 4-40 screws on most of the plastic stuff on my cars and trucks but I have fine thread screws going into the diff cases of my storm on the bottom of the car and no problems here.
__________________
Proudly driving for Kyosho America, Team Maclan and RC Pitstop
INFERN0 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2002, 06:08 PM   #538
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 33
Default

Well said Mr. Inferno.
A good example of coarse thread vs fine thread is in the Tamiya cars. Tamiya uses coarse, and I have never had one pull out on it's own. Another example is in my full size car. All of the fasteners that secure into various plastic parts are coarse threads.
By the way, I am an "engineering type".
Let's get back to hobby talk.
Babblefish is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2002, 08:04 PM   #539
Registered User
 
OB42TC3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 417
Default

This car rocks! But seriously though OSU BSME aside, from my experience, replacing the 4-40s with 3 mm fine thread provides much better clamp force. I think the reasoning would be the increased surface area on the 3 mm. Anyway here's what I'm doing on the front tower with a 3 mm..
OB42TC3 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2002, 08:08 PM   #540
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Bay Area, Ca
Posts: 216
Send a message via AIM to MtX2ImPuLsEr
Default

Sup guys im now a Ntc3 owner-

I just got done building and setting up the Ntc3.. right now im having trouble setting up all the camber and toe. I tried using the Hudy but the wheel axles are too thick to fit in the guages. On the setup tool they give you with the ntc3 how do you know if your setup is correct for toe and camber for front and back because im kinda confused and its really ticking me off. If anyone can help and give me some tips to setup with toe and camber for front/rear i appreciate it.
Thanks in Advance
MtX2ImPuLsEr is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:40 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net