2LikesRc10ntc3
07-02-2003, 08:24 PM
#4666
Originally posted by rcpilot
Thanks for the advice. I am not having any problems at all with the bearings actually. I tried both the Mip shiny cvd's and the stock blue ones and the Mip ones are snapping right at the diff end and the blue ones are twisting. I will give the rtr axles a try. This car is just falling apart on me while running on the track not hitting a single thing. . I'm running the white gears on the spool and so far I haven't stripped that one for a couple months but the grey ones on the rear are. I temped the rear diff case at 140* after about 5 minutes of running. The shimming is right too, very little play on the ring and pinion but still spins smooth. Would adding grease to the rear diff case help with the problem?
Thanks for the advice. I am not having any problems at all with the bearings actually. I tried both the Mip shiny cvd's and the stock blue ones and the Mip ones are snapping right at the diff end and the blue ones are twisting. I will give the rtr axles a try. This car is just falling apart on me while running on the track not hitting a single thing. . I'm running the white gears on the spool and so far I haven't stripped that one for a couple months but the grey ones on the rear are. I temped the rear diff case at 140* after about 5 minutes of running. The shimming is right too, very little play on the ring and pinion but still spins smooth. Would adding grease to the rear diff case help with the problem?
1. Use the white gears
2. Make sure to use AE original bearings; most aftermarket ones have more slop and more importantly are about .001-2" too narrow(which affects the shimming-the small shims are .003")
3. Make sure the diff cases are staying together, use the lower shock mount size screws at least, no aluminum.
4. I think you should shim to the instructions at this point, no tighter, no looser, keep in mind aftermarket drive cups affect the spacing too.
More than anything though I think they have had quality control problems with the gray plastic, which makes their response(what problem?? even more offensive; they won't even exchange NIP grays for the whites) I never had problems until I rebuilt a diff with a new gear and then I blew three diffs in one weekend.
And if you slam something with the clutch engaged all bets are off; although my car took a beating at the last midwest race and went the full weekend, qualifying 3rd and finishing 3rd. FYI NTC3 1-2-3
07-03-2003, 06:23 AM
#4669
I used one set over 3 months without much problem. I replaced them to be sure before the race though.
Sign should be 2nd gear not engaging like it used to.
For me, the worse problem was those little screws too easily cross threading aluminum clutch housing and/or the bearing of which goes loose from the housing causing 2nd gear not engaging at all or irradically.
Other than these, I'm pretty happy with it.
Sign should be 2nd gear not engaging like it used to.
For me, the worse problem was those little screws too easily cross threading aluminum clutch housing and/or the bearing of which goes loose from the housing causing 2nd gear not engaging at all or irradically.
Other than these, I'm pretty happy with it.
Originally posted by spawn
How long does the 2 speed clutch last? what is the tell-tale sign of a worn out 2 speed clutch shoe?
How long does the 2 speed clutch last? what is the tell-tale sign of a worn out 2 speed clutch shoe?
Last edited by rcruv; 07-03-2003 at 06:30 AM.
07-03-2003, 06:43 AM
#4670
Re: How are you guys keeping your ntc3 running for more than 5 minutes?
Here're things I tried with some good results.
1. I tried put a better bearing and superglue it to the housing making sure it doesn't come loose after a while and still free wheeling.
2. MIP shiny cvds
3. diff case dremelled a little where the bearings sit until the bearing doesn't get stuck when the diff cases are lifted, a little more grease in the gear, or white delrin gears? (the one factory guys using at the race) if you can get.
4. yokomo one-way or is new AE one-way any good?
1. I tried put a better bearing and superglue it to the housing making sure it doesn't come loose after a while and still free wheeling.
2. MIP shiny cvds
3. diff case dremelled a little where the bearings sit until the bearing doesn't get stuck when the diff cases are lifted, a little more grease in the gear, or white delrin gears? (the one factory guys using at the race) if you can get.
4. yokomo one-way or is new AE one-way any good?
Originally posted by rcpilot
I switched to the ntc3 from an mtx-2 and never had a car with so many problems. Blown 1st gear bearings, twisted cvd's, melted diff gears, screws coming loose everywhere. This is all from not touching a single board but just a powerful smeltz engine. It's the fastest car I've run to date but how will it last a longer main. The gears heat up and melt, the one-way blows when you put a motor with more hp, and the cvd's twist when running a spool not even hitting a single thing.
How are guys running this car in long mains? Seems like the car can't take the horsepower.
I switched to the ntc3 from an mtx-2 and never had a car with so many problems. Blown 1st gear bearings, twisted cvd's, melted diff gears, screws coming loose everywhere. This is all from not touching a single board but just a powerful smeltz engine. It's the fastest car I've run to date but how will it last a longer main. The gears heat up and melt, the one-way blows when you put a motor with more hp, and the cvd's twist when running a spool not even hitting a single thing.
How are guys running this car in long mains? Seems like the car can't take the horsepower.
07-03-2003, 07:01 AM
#4671
Last year 6 of us went up to the Eastern Canadian Gas Nationals in Ottawa Ontario. We all ran NTC3's.
One of our guys, Mark Frechette won the 60 minute (1 hour) A main with a pretty close to box stock NTC3 with a rear exhaust 3 port RB Concepts X12. He ran both a solid spool and/or one-way during the 5 qualifiers and ran the one-way for the 60 minute main (original AE oneway), without any melting, blowing, seizing or twisting. This was before the new delrin gears even came out.
The 3rd place winner also finished the 60 minute main with an almost stock NTC3, except he was running a JTech MT12. He was faster than Mark, but had to stop for fuel every 4.5 minutes.
Same thing, no problems at all, and he was reefing the throttle everywhere trying to catch up...
It was also a good size track with the back straight just over 180'
One of our guys, Mark Frechette won the 60 minute (1 hour) A main with a pretty close to box stock NTC3 with a rear exhaust 3 port RB Concepts X12. He ran both a solid spool and/or one-way during the 5 qualifiers and ran the one-way for the 60 minute main (original AE oneway), without any melting, blowing, seizing or twisting. This was before the new delrin gears even came out.
The 3rd place winner also finished the 60 minute main with an almost stock NTC3, except he was running a JTech MT12. He was faster than Mark, but had to stop for fuel every 4.5 minutes.
Same thing, no problems at all, and he was reefing the throttle everywhere trying to catch up...
It was also a good size track with the back straight just over 180'
07-03-2003, 07:23 AM
#4672
Re: Easy diff adjustment
Originally posted by Lythion
I have not seen this posted anywhere including other boards and the AE "Complete Tuning Guide" so I thought that I'd pass it along. I noticed when building my kit that the 5/64 hex key that comes with the kit has a shorter end than the others. I had purchased a nice driver set and set aside the keys that came with the kit and didn't give the odd short guy another thought. After several weekends I needed to make a diff adjustment and dreaded the idea of pulling the diff out. I thought that if only I had a hex key with a short end I could stick in the end of the outdrive and turn the other wheel to make the necessary adjustment. Then I remembered that one of the keys was shorter than normal. Sure enough, it just fit between the end of the CVD and the outdrive. Its a little work to get the key to seat but you'll know it when it happens. Hope this helps you guys out on the track.
I have not seen this posted anywhere including other boards and the AE "Complete Tuning Guide" so I thought that I'd pass it along. I noticed when building my kit that the 5/64 hex key that comes with the kit has a shorter end than the others. I had purchased a nice driver set and set aside the keys that came with the kit and didn't give the odd short guy another thought. After several weekends I needed to make a diff adjustment and dreaded the idea of pulling the diff out. I thought that if only I had a hex key with a short end I could stick in the end of the outdrive and turn the other wheel to make the necessary adjustment. Then I remembered that one of the keys was shorter than normal. Sure enough, it just fit between the end of the CVD and the outdrive. Its a little work to get the key to seat but you'll know it when it happens. Hope this helps you guys out on the track.
07-03-2003, 05:51 PM
#4675
Originally posted by che
Last year 6 of us went up to the Eastern Canadian Gas Nationals in Ottawa Ontario. We all ran NTC3's.
One of our guys, Mark Frechette won the 60 minute (1 hour) A main with a pretty close to box stock NTC3 with a rear exhaust 3 port RB Concepts X12. He ran both a solid spool and/or one-way during the 5 qualifiers and ran the one-way for the 60 minute main (original AE oneway), without any melting, blowing, seizing or twisting. This was before the new delrin gears even came out.
The 3rd place winner also finished the 60 minute main with an almost stock NTC3, except he was running a JTech MT12. He was faster than Mark, but had to stop for fuel every 4.5 minutes.
Same thing, no problems at all, and he was reefing the throttle everywhere trying to catch up...
It was also a good size track with the back straight just over 180'
Last year 6 of us went up to the Eastern Canadian Gas Nationals in Ottawa Ontario. We all ran NTC3's.
One of our guys, Mark Frechette won the 60 minute (1 hour) A main with a pretty close to box stock NTC3 with a rear exhaust 3 port RB Concepts X12. He ran both a solid spool and/or one-way during the 5 qualifiers and ran the one-way for the 60 minute main (original AE oneway), without any melting, blowing, seizing or twisting. This was before the new delrin gears even came out.
The 3rd place winner also finished the 60 minute main with an almost stock NTC3, except he was running a JTech MT12. He was faster than Mark, but had to stop for fuel every 4.5 minutes.
Same thing, no problems at all, and he was reefing the throttle everywhere trying to catch up...
It was also a good size track with the back straight just over 180'
07-04-2003, 01:04 AM
#4676
Tech Adept
Re: Easy diff adjustment
Originally posted by Lythion
I have not seen this posted anywhere including other boards and the AE "Complete Tuning Guide" so I thought that I'd pass it along. I noticed when building my kit that the 5/64 hex key that comes with the kit has a shorter end than the others. I had purchased a nice driver set and set aside the keys that came with the kit and didn't give the odd short guy another thought. After several weekends I needed to make a diff adjustment and dreaded the idea of pulling the diff out. I thought that if only I had a hex key with a short end I could stick in the end of the outdrive and turn the other wheel to make the necessary adjustment. Then I remembered that one of the keys was shorter than normal. Sure enough, it just fit between the end of the CVD and the outdrive. Its a little work to get the key to seat but you'll know it when it happens. Hope this helps you guys out on the track.
I have not seen this posted anywhere including other boards and the AE "Complete Tuning Guide" so I thought that I'd pass it along. I noticed when building my kit that the 5/64 hex key that comes with the kit has a shorter end than the others. I had purchased a nice driver set and set aside the keys that came with the kit and didn't give the odd short guy another thought. After several weekends I needed to make a diff adjustment and dreaded the idea of pulling the diff out. I thought that if only I had a hex key with a short end I could stick in the end of the outdrive and turn the other wheel to make the necessary adjustment. Then I remembered that one of the keys was shorter than normal. Sure enough, it just fit between the end of the CVD and the outdrive. Its a little work to get the key to seat but you'll know it when it happens. Hope this helps you guys out on the track.
07-04-2003, 03:38 AM
#4677
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I have seen similar good durability over here. One question, how many decent impacts did the cars have? All the NTC3s my friends own are VERY quick but on a large track seem to break just that little bit easier.
I have seen similar good durability over here. One question, how many decent impacts did the cars have? All the NTC3s my friends own are VERY quick but on a large track seem to break just that little bit easier.
well,lets face it....faster on the track,faster into the wall...and I'm not downplaying you freinds....
I think alot of the issues come with the fact that on any given part of the track,the tc3 is accelerating harder,has more speed,and corners harder than other cars...
07-04-2003, 05:30 AM
#4678
Registered User
Originally posted by fastharry
well,lets face it....faster on the track,faster into the wall...and I'm not downplaying you freinds....
I think alot of the issues come with the fact that on any given part of the track,the tc3 is accelerating harder,has more speed,and corners harder than other cars...
well,lets face it....faster on the track,faster into the wall...and I'm not downplaying you freinds....
I think alot of the issues come with the fact that on any given part of the track,the tc3 is accelerating harder,has more speed,and corners harder than other cars...
07-04-2003, 05:42 AM
#4679
Originally posted by AMGRacer
I have seen similar good durability over here. One question, how many decent impacts did the cars have? All the NTC3s my friends own are VERY quick but on a large track seem to break just that little bit easier.
I have seen similar good durability over here. One question, how many decent impacts did the cars have? All the NTC3s my friends own are VERY quick but on a large track seem to break just that little bit easier.
I on the other hand 'rubbed' a few boards and did 'some' damage (pushed rear toe link in and bent a pivot ball), but nothing worse than I have done on previous cars...
And I now 'fixed' those 2 known issues so it has not happened again since.
The NTC3 is not as 'beefy' or 'overkill' as some of the other sedans out there, but this helps the acceleration and overall speed. It is not meant to be riding the rails, but what car is.
07-04-2003, 06:21 AM
#4680
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally posted by bbntc3
I don't see where the NTC3 has more if any top end speed than any other good car. Accellerates faster, more corner speed? Well, I'll have to give you that one! lol
I don't see where the NTC3 has more if any top end speed than any other good car. Accellerates faster, more corner speed? Well, I'll have to give you that one! lol
Now BB,did I say "TOP" speed?
..and I said accelerates "harder"...I see it on the track....on teh 100 ft straight we have,tc3's with smaller HP motors are past belt cars with higher HP motors halfway down the staright...
Last edited by fastharry™; 07-04-2003 at 06:26 AM.