OFNA LD3 pro
#751
Tech Master
Hey? This a normal 3 shoe clutch your talking about.. hmm Ive been running the same springs on my .21 engine for over a year.. If you find you are breaking them go to different brand. The springs are spinning with the crank, I can't see how they would be wearing out. ?
Originally posted by sup
the thing that wears the most are the springs, the part of the spring that has contact with the crank
the thing that wears the most are the springs, the part of the spring that has contact with the crank
#752
yup! 3 shoe clutch that comes with the standard LD3. changed the springs to hobao ones (ones for offroad, hyper 7. shoes and springs for the hobao fit the hongnor ones ). have not checked the springs for wear for about 3 outings now so i have not seen the wear. maybe its just me nightmare, never changed anything since brake-in so i guess it gave way due to the crank sliding through the springs.
#753
Tech Adept
Originally posted by dtm
OK you win the laziest competition!!!
It may be worth ordering the alloy mounts anyway because they are tapped at both ends to allow you to secure to upper deck and chassis.
OK you win the laziest competition!!!
It may be worth ordering the alloy mounts anyway because they are tapped at both ends to allow you to secure to upper deck and chassis.
Not modding the plastic ones, am making new ones from aluminum that will mount up similar to the optional ones from Ofna. Will post some pics when I'm finished...
#754
Tech Apprentice
Hey fellas. I'm in the market for a new nitro TC and I'd like to know how you guys like your LD3's. Are there any problematic areas? How do they compare to some of the other cars you guys may own. Where's the best placce to order the Hong-Norr edition? Thanks.
#755
Originally posted by SteveG
Not modding the plastic ones, am making new ones from aluminum that will mount up similar to the optional ones from Ofna. Will post some pics when I'm finished...
Not modding the plastic ones, am making new ones from aluminum that will mount up similar to the optional ones from Ofna. Will post some pics when I'm finished...
#756
Tech Master
Originally posted by SteveG
Will post some pics when I'm finished...
Will post some pics when I'm finished...
changed the springs to hobao ones
Ive heard springs can break but its rare (or its supposed to be hehee), I seem to remember from 1/8 buggy forum the rule is bust one, throw other 2 away and put a new set in.
#757
Originally posted by dtm
OK you win the laziest competition!!!
It may be worth ordering the alloy mounts anyway because they are tapped at both ends to allow you to secure to upper deck and chassis.
OK you win the laziest competition!!!
It may be worth ordering the alloy mounts anyway because they are tapped at both ends to allow you to secure to upper deck and chassis.
#758
Ofna differential lock oil
Fellas, is the ofna diff lock oil appropriate for use in the rear diff on an ld3
#759
Re: Ofna differential lock oil
Originally posted by IDrinkNitro
Fellas, is the ofna diff lock oil appropriate for use in the rear diff on an ld3
Fellas, is the ofna diff lock oil appropriate for use in the rear diff on an ld3
#761
Originally posted by spenzalii
And I'm guessing the diff lock oil (or 100,000 oil) would work in conjunction with th efront one way, correct?
And I'm guessing the diff lock oil (or 100,000 oil) would work in conjunction with th efront one way, correct?
100,000wt is not really diff lock on the LD3 because of the small gears.....it actually feels around 30,000wt (ish) if you compare it against the Kyosho diffs.......
#762
Re: Re: Ofna differential lock oil
Originally posted by dtm
It is far too thin......use 100,000 silicon oil or Mugen Super grease...they are about right.....
It is far too thin......use 100,000 silicon oil or Mugen Super grease...they are about right.....
#763
Providing the oil does not spill out when you clamp everything down then it is OK. I like to put as much as possible into the diff....you get a more consistent feel.
I did try 30,000wt also...found the car understeered like a pig on power coming out of a corner. If your track is wide enough and you have enough grip you may get away with it...try it first.
I did try 30,000wt also...found the car understeered like a pig on power coming out of a corner. If your track is wide enough and you have enough grip you may get away with it...try it first.
#764
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
100,000wt is not really diff lock on the LD3 because of the small gears.....it actually feels around 30,000wt (ish) if you compare it against the Kyosho diffs.......
#765
Originally posted by spenzalii
That's interesting... I was using 30,000 up front (no one way for my driving skill, or lack thereof) and 3,000 in the rear. Guess I better switch up to something like I saw in another mag (120,000 up front and 50,000 rear). What do you think?
That's interesting... I was using 30,000 up front (no one way for my driving skill, or lack thereof) and 3,000 in the rear. Guess I better switch up to something like I saw in another mag (120,000 up front and 50,000 rear). What do you think?
However, it does depend on how stable you want your cars....I normally like my cars to rotate more "on-power" rather than "off power"...thus the heavier rear diff oil.