BundyMan

What is the best setting for this car? Do you guys follow the manual settings? I had inserted shims before and after the clutch bell to minimize the free play (very little if any) and it seems to pack a little more punch.

Rgds

Marcos.J

iTrader: (239)

you supposed to have a little bit of play, like .2mm or so

BundyMan

Yeah I used to have about .4 to .5 mm of freeplay but this friend mentioned that its better to have little or no free play at all. Just curious....and wonder if anyone else have similar setups.

Rgds

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

I have mostly always set my end gap to .4mm on the FW-05R and now my V-One RRR.

monokenny

iTrader: (47)

Peter call me if it is possible.

Thanks
Ken

InitialD

Bundyman is talking about end float (play of the clutchbell after installation) and you're talking about clutch gap (distance between clutch shoe and clutchbell).

I think you need to differentiate between the two terms as they are totally different.

InitialD

To understand more about how to set the Centax clutch, read here and generally get the idea. Ignore the first parts as I think the Centax clutch on the Serpent and on the Kyosho it a little different. You may end up with different measurements but the concept is the same.

BundyMan

Looking at it, kyosho is still using Centax-2. I am referring to the "clutch gap".

InitialD

Kyosho has different clutch shoes, different hardness centax clutch springs and different flyweights that you can play with for different track conditions.

The tension of the centax spring is usually set on the track to see how the clutch response is required for a given clutch setup.

Wide open tracks usually require bigger clutch gap. Smaller tracks usually smaller clutch gap. Bigger clutch gap gives more agressive engagement and vice versa.

Usually if you go with smaller clutch gap, you may want to tighten the centax spring for the engine RPM to wind up a little to avoid the clutch bogging down when it engages.

When you add shims in the thrust bearing front, you're actually making the clutch gap closer. When you're putting shims inside the clutch in between the clutch nut and the bearing, you're making the end play less. Less end play will only give you more life to your thrust bearing and ensures that your clutch shoes do not rub on the clutchbell during idling which if it rubs may cause the engine to stall and which will make the clutch shoe wear higher or worse still meltdown !

NiMo

End float on my car .4 - .5
Clutch gap? never thought about this one, I just set it so the car kicks out of the corner without bogging or without too higher revs.
Having the clutch bite too late can reduce the feel of applying the power on those sweeping corners, but having it bite too early can make it feel like an on/off switch.

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

Sorry, that's what I meant. In any case, I still set the "END FLOAT" to .4mm most of the time. It's a good starting point for any track. You can add or subtract shims depending on how the clutch is working.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

hey guys

i think i have a problem with my fw

the thing is, when i turn left, the left wheel has some slack where i can push it in and out further from where the steeirng plate is

(i know this is a bit hard to explain)

when i turn right, the right wheel is able to be pushed it more from where the steeirng plate is as well.

i notice that the links that adjust toe move more inwards towards the diff so the wheels arent turning equal frm left to right cause the inner wheels has this slop

can someone please help
thanks!~

Sow&Steady

Aha! Looks like you were influenced by my video of the test I did. Well, looking forward to seeing the WC edition NiMo!

Racing4Evo

iTrader: (2)

That's normal. It's called ackerman. The inside wheel has more throw because it has a smaller distance to travel around the corner.

mrgsr

iTrader: (15)

does the slop affect anything ?

can you get rid of it ?

damn i miss that ntc3 steering setup hehe