Kyosho FW-05R
#3901
Moderator
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
Posts: 4,609
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Thats what the rear ring looks like out of the 05R I bought used a few months ago
note the weight savings on this gear in the lower left, the previous owner seemed to have removed a tooth from the gear via some miracle of driving hehe.
Needless to say this gear is not going back in.
Since I am pricing out the steels. it seems a Kawahara center conversion costs just a tad more than 2 kyosho steel gear sets.
The gear that was in this car is a 40 front and rear for the ring, It was perfectly setup for the course I drive on in the summer. I am a bit worried that the Kawahara conversion would be a bit too much high end on the FDR than what I want for this course.
Its either that or I am going to buy 2 39 or 40 tooth steel ring gear sets.
#3902
I'd sugget get 2 39T steel ring gears. They really free up the drivetrain and will last almost forever.
#3903
Super Moderator
iTrader: (239)
Originally posted by Clegg
Thats what the rear ring looks like out of the 05R I bought used a few months ago
note the weight savings on this gear in the lower left, the previous owner seemed to have removed a tooth from the gear via some miracle of driving hehe.
Needless to say this gear is not going back in.
Since I am pricing out the steels. it seems a Kawahara center conversion costs just a tad more than 2 kyosho steel gear sets.
The gear that was in this car is a 40 front and rear for the ring, It was perfectly setup for the course I drive on in the summer. I am a bit worried that the Kawahara conversion would be a bit too much high end on the FDR than what I want for this course.
Its either that or I am going to buy 2 39 or 40 tooth steel ring gear sets.
Thats what the rear ring looks like out of the 05R I bought used a few months ago
note the weight savings on this gear in the lower left, the previous owner seemed to have removed a tooth from the gear via some miracle of driving hehe.
Needless to say this gear is not going back in.
Since I am pricing out the steels. it seems a Kawahara center conversion costs just a tad more than 2 kyosho steel gear sets.
The gear that was in this car is a 40 front and rear for the ring, It was perfectly setup for the course I drive on in the summer. I am a bit worried that the Kawahara conversion would be a bit too much high end on the FDR than what I want for this course.
Its either that or I am going to buy 2 39 or 40 tooth steel ring gear sets.
Last edited by Marcos.J; 01-31-2005 at 06:33 PM.
#3904
Originally posted by NiMo
There is more to consider than just the gear ratio.
The Kawahara runs much freer, and feels less overgeared than the 39T Kyosho rings.
Also an STS and a Rossi could not pull the Kawahara gearing, but the JP has so much torque it can still spin the wheels with a 21T 1st, and having such a long 1st gear makes running the infield much easier (check the videos on 3hobby.net)
I'm looking in to getting the grey clutch as this would hopefully give a smoother power take up making the car even easier to drive.
You also say anything more than 7 minutes is a cooked motor, well I've been doing 8/9 minutes since October and it's not cooked yet (and I'm running a Touring shell) so what am I doing wrong?
There is more to consider than just the gear ratio.
The Kawahara runs much freer, and feels less overgeared than the 39T Kyosho rings.
Also an STS and a Rossi could not pull the Kawahara gearing, but the JP has so much torque it can still spin the wheels with a 21T 1st, and having such a long 1st gear makes running the infield much easier (check the videos on 3hobby.net)
I'm looking in to getting the grey clutch as this would hopefully give a smoother power take up making the car even easier to drive.
You also say anything more than 7 minutes is a cooked motor, well I've been doing 8/9 minutes since October and it's not cooked yet (and I'm running a Touring shell) so what am I doing wrong?
Last edited by rjl; 02-01-2005 at 04:43 AM.
#3905
Moderator
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Outside doing things in places... Denver, CO
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Originally posted by jeffreylin
I'd sugget get 2 39T steel ring gears. They really free up the drivetrain and will last almost forever.
I'd sugget get 2 39T steel ring gears. They really free up the drivetrain and will last almost forever.
#3906
Originally posted by Clegg
Well amazingly 2 sets of them will be on their way to me tomorrow
Well amazingly 2 sets of them will be on their way to me tomorrow
#3907
Tech Elite
Mine both rear diff joint and rear center gear joint are worn. It not happen to the front diff joint cup and the front center gear cup. Probably too much torque / power to the rear for FW.
#3908
Tech Elite
the picture..
#3909
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iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Jan 2004
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I am guessing english isnt your native language?
From what I could make out from that (and your pic) is that the rear outdrives from the diff are wearing worse in the rear than the front.
its pretty common in nitro for that to happen due to the fact when you accelerate out of a corner, more weight is on the rear end, causing it to grip more, and less wheel spin. This makes the small bit of lash thats in the drive line there beat on the outdrives in power transitions more. The fronts spin much easier on power transitions and wear much less because of that. Theres also teh fact that the back of the car is covered in oil residue normally and this can cause dust and particles to stick to surfaces like the outdrives and help the dog bone pin wear on the outdrives easier.
You dont want to let too much wear build up, if you do, the lash in the drive line will build up and start to break dog bones, or teeth off gears (the sudden instant engagement caused by lots of lash is quite destructive)
From what I could make out from that (and your pic) is that the rear outdrives from the diff are wearing worse in the rear than the front.
its pretty common in nitro for that to happen due to the fact when you accelerate out of a corner, more weight is on the rear end, causing it to grip more, and less wheel spin. This makes the small bit of lash thats in the drive line there beat on the outdrives in power transitions more. The fronts spin much easier on power transitions and wear much less because of that. Theres also teh fact that the back of the car is covered in oil residue normally and this can cause dust and particles to stick to surfaces like the outdrives and help the dog bone pin wear on the outdrives easier.
You dont want to let too much wear build up, if you do, the lash in the drive line will build up and start to break dog bones, or teeth off gears (the sudden instant engagement caused by lots of lash is quite destructive)
#3910
Originally posted by Clegg
You dont want to let too much wear build up, if you do, the lash in the drive line will build up and start to break dog bones, or teeth off gears (the sudden instant engagement caused by lots of lash is quite destructive)
You dont want to let too much wear build up, if you do, the lash in the drive line will build up and start to break dog bones, or teeth off gears (the sudden instant engagement caused by lots of lash is quite destructive)
#3911
Tech Elite
Originally posted by Clegg
I am guessing english isnt your native language?
I am guessing english isnt your native language?
Got your point - Clegg and D, thank you and i do plan to replace those "outdrive".
#3912
Clegg: the standard Diff Ring Gears are made from softer cast steel, the upgrade items are made from machined steel.
The pitch pattern is smoother on the machined gear so the don't have to be meshed so tightly.
The Kawahara set up has moved the inner bearing closer to the diff so the meshing can be looser still, giving even more performance.
This is the front Kawahara diff after a good 50+ hours of running, (the rear looks similar) as you can see, very little wear, if any at all.
Also note the extra black plastic ring, that holds the larger inner bearing closer to the diff.
The pitch pattern is smoother on the machined gear so the don't have to be meshed so tightly.
The Kawahara set up has moved the inner bearing closer to the diff so the meshing can be looser still, giving even more performance.
This is the front Kawahara diff after a good 50+ hours of running, (the rear looks similar) as you can see, very little wear, if any at all.
Also note the extra black plastic ring, that holds the larger inner bearing closer to the diff.
#3914
Originally posted by Marcos.J
Hey Nimo did the gears sound funny the first time you put them on?I check and double check the mesh and the mesh is good,let me know,
thanks
Hey Nimo did the gears sound funny the first time you put them on?I check and double check the mesh and the mesh is good,let me know,
thanks
They sound like they don't mesh, but they don't half perform.