fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

and the answer is?...

its not a R40 chassis,hara or other wise....the back of the chassis has no mounting holes for the rear assembly....


and the middle looks too thick...

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

LOL thats quite a statement from the FH. Starting to see hpi for what it is with the lack of on-road support?

Ill be honest , I cant believe they dropped the ball so hard on the category that helped them become what they are. I could even go in and re-engineer the r40 to perform at least more reliably and Id toss that r40 clutch and crap flywheel with the 2 times longer than they should be pins out the window. Why they throw an engineer at the car or at least a good driver to show them the simple mistakes to fix. Not sure.

Oh well.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Yeah now that you said that. It looks almost like a 1/8th scale chassis or something different. Got that wide look to it.

coolson

Hi guys,

I have just bought a swallow 2 ac/dc charger.

if someone has the same charger. It would be great if some could help me out here.

when I cycle D->C a pack of 4 AA batteries. how should i set it

on the screen it reads like the following for Discharge and then Charge.

NiMH CYCLE D->C 5
C=1.0A D=0.5A

I am wondering what does the 5 means. It doesn't say anything in the manual.

Thanks in advance!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

5 cell.

coolson

Oh... I though the charger would auto detect the number of cell. and the maximum number i can change on that number is 5.

if that number means number of cells. How come I can't set the number which bigger than 5. As the manual said you can charge NiMH from 1-14 cells.

Thanks in advance!

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Hmm im confused perhaps its the charge rate.

RCRjuanabbe

Is it worth updating an original R40 to the latest edition? I mean to compete with the top three manufacturer.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Ask rapidroy, he's just done this. i'm not sure how much difference the new layout makes but the lightweight 2 speed is a must have

On another topic, I keep going through outer clutch bearings (the flanged one inside the bell). Does anyone else have this problem? I assume this is because they take the sideways force from the clutch engagement, but is there anything I can do?

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

I'll sell you a NIB hara for 275 plus shipping....way cheaper than converting....

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

after you are done setting the gap,make sure the clitch bell has very little side play.......no,I've never blown a clutch bearing...

RCRjuanabbe

thanks but I was just asking if it's worth the expense and trouble.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

its worth the trouble because the car drives completely diifferent..its not worth it expense wise...it would be cheaper to buy the hara car.....

RCRjuanabbe

thanks for the input.....

Rapid Roy

I can't tell from personal experiance because the car hasn't even hit the track yet. I can tell you that from a majority of the guys on this thread saw an improvement. You should also jump on fastharry's deal if you go for the update.