dark_one22

can anyone help me with this???

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Id just get the v2 hpi competition shocks. I dont think you can easily beat those as well they will keep your setup sheets similiar as im sure there are slight variances to the mugens.

badKarma

seriously considering an R40 for a 2006 race project. Should i just wait until the Hara Edition comes out or should I start stock and hop it up from there? Can yall help?

Hesky

simple matter of which one works out most cost effective, if you hop up a standard r40 i guess it would cost more to get it to hara spec than just buying one when available.

but then again I got a bone stock r40 when they were practically giving them away free and slowly hoped it up on a shoe string grabbing upgrades as they came, r40s aint to popular in the uk so upgrade parts just go unwanted, even more so now the race season has ended.

Turbo Joe

iTrader: (41)

Or a third option...buy used with hop-ups and spares. No individual items/parts cost that much to repair. You can buy one used for 125-150 with a few options and even if it needs a chassis, you're in it less than $200.

nitroracer20

iTrader: (5)

hey guys...
Im getting mycar set up for next race season and have a few ?'s
The following is for a medium bite parking lot race track I race on.

What should I run in the rear diff? Grease

What about the front diff? What weight?

What shock oils for ft/rear?

HOw much toe-in/out for front/rear?


Lastly im confused between the terms caster and camber. Could someone explain?
Thanks in advance

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

nitroracer20:

Here is a link to a few of the R40 setups HARA and Thad garner have used. They include information like what type of track they were on as well in the setup sheets. Try to match as closely possible to your track, then go from there.

http://hpiracing.com/setups/su-m.php

You might want to also try just using the stock setup and go from there.

But outside of that you pretty much want to have 0 toe in the front and -3 toe in the rear. The more rear toe , the more stability , the less rear toe....more turn and less stability. Basically with more rear toe the car will want to drive straighter and easier.

As for camber , do something around -1 all around. Tires I have been suggesting the twister tire over the jaco (both are highly reccomended and affordable). Due to the colder weather I would run 35's....when it gets hot 40's, with 37 being inbetween for milder weather.

Then go and pickup the r40 gold and silver spring sets. Maybe even the red proceed rear spring.

Based on the track surface....the bumpier use lighter. Flat , use more. Also it equates to less oil weight , more turn in and roll. Higher weight , less turn in and less roll.

dark_one22

just got my hex wrench set from integy (Ti-Nitride 7pcs) this things look well crafted and pretty sweet looking, now I'm just wating for the stupid screw set to get here, hope they get here tomarrow so I can start the build...

Well im on the subject, is there anything I should know or be aware of before I begin to build? anything I should look out for?

badKarma

anyone in the MD/DC/VA area with an r40 in the Baltimore area or close?

Rapid Roy

You could always start with the diffs and shocks. You could also paint the body while you wait for the screws.

nitroracer20

iTrader: (5)

thanks for the reply aritifcial...
I was orrigionally running 50wt but I switched to 35 today. Im in the process of cleaning up the car/rebuilding it so Ill let you know how it goes.
Thanks again

Rapid Roy

35 wt is really light. I run 50wt all around with black front (kti) springs and silver rear (soft). 1 deg or 1.5 deg neg camber, I usually run .5 deg more in the rear. .5 deg front toe out and 2.5 deg rear toe in. 4.5/5.5 mm f/r ride height. Front sway bar full soft and rear disconnected. I run 35 shore foams all around. I finally picked up some 27 shore to try since tire wear hasn't been an issue.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

I would build your 2-speed now. Be sure it rotates smoothly in the housing. Make sure its got a hairline crack to where you can barely see light through it , make sure the gap is made equally from each side. Then for the setting screw do as exactly the instruction says and place the screws as far out as possible, without it being able to scratch. This should allow for good engagement right out the box, then you can tune it on the track. Better to have it engage soon rather than not at all.

You can also build the diffs like rapidroy says. That will always be philips , unless you convert it with some extra screws.....which im pretty sure no one includes in kits.

Build your shocks.

Build your suspension arms, place everything in them and put on the hubs and so forth. Make sure they move freely.

Thats about all you can do without those screws.

But most parts are pretty easy. I know I had a few tweaks done but only the 2speed is coming to mind.

Artificial-I

iTrader: (17)

Wowsers 27 is what electrics run. I dont think I can even find anything with the 26mm front / 30 mm rear nitro setup in that low of a shore.

I ran 35 rears in nitro shoes and they ran fine , then I came back after a heat and almost all the foam on the rear was gone, just a few mm left. While the fronts were still fine. Not sure what I was doing on the track. I know the rear felt real slippy...but up until that point I thought 35's were good for wear / grip.

I then switched to 40's all around in the twister tire in the heat of the summer and it was amazing grip. By far blowing away anything I had seen from the jacos in 35. They are almost too grippy giving you lots quick steering....a quick twitch and bam it would go with it. While the jacos are lazier , smoother turning....

dnitro

RapidRoy,
Do you go to Revelations? Seems like Im the only one with an r40 in that place. It really erks me that the owner of Rev doesn't support r40, he'll tell you flat out that it is crap. I really wish there are other r40 drivers there so I can compare setups.

When the bite is on at Rev, I use 42\40 shore f\r, 0 deg toe in front, 2 deg in rear. Camber is 1 in front, 2 in rear. Ride height is 4/5. Silver spring in front, black in the rear, with 50 weight. One way front-diff, and stock rear diff with heavy heavy oil. Works pretty well.