HPI R40 Nitro Car Forum
08-17-2005, 12:24 AM
#8521
you get good results from treaded tyres then? the honeycomb style integral insert is pretty interesting.
thanks for the link!
thanks for the link!
08-17-2005, 12:35 AM
#8522
Tech Master
Yes those tires are very grippy and provide good control. However, you want to make sure not to hit the wall too many times if you get the premounted ones. A few of my wheels on them have already warped and bent.
08-17-2005, 12:44 AM
#8523
not all that un common really with rc car wheels in general. cant beat the old dish wheels for strength though.
dude your avatar is sick!!
dude your avatar is sick!!
08-17-2005, 03:20 AM
#8524
Make sure that the pins that locate the clutch shoes are not hitting the inside of the clutch bell. Your clutch bell will have a nice line in it if they are. Next, you want to run as little end play as possible.
You might be setting up the clutch bell to far away from the clutch shoes. If you shim the wrong places you will have too much gap between the clutch bell and clutch shoes. If this happens, you will never be able to get the clutch to engage early enough. What I did was to assemble the clutch weights, shoes and clutch nut on the flywheel. Then I test fit the clutchbell without any bearings or spacers. When I did this, I discovered the pins were keeping the clutch bell from comming into contact with the clutch shoes and I had to do my mod. Once you get good contact between the shoes and bell, you can now see the correct position of the clutch bell to the clutch shoes. You want a very small gap between the shoes and bell. Now take off the clutchbell, install the bearings, and adjust the spacers so you get the gap you want. Now add spacers at the end, just under the screw that holds the whole mess together so the is almost no wiggle (end play).
You might be setting up the clutch bell to far away from the clutch shoes. If you shim the wrong places you will have too much gap between the clutch bell and clutch shoes. If this happens, you will never be able to get the clutch to engage early enough. What I did was to assemble the clutch weights, shoes and clutch nut on the flywheel. Then I test fit the clutchbell without any bearings or spacers. When I did this, I discovered the pins were keeping the clutch bell from comming into contact with the clutch shoes and I had to do my mod. Once you get good contact between the shoes and bell, you can now see the correct position of the clutch bell to the clutch shoes. You want a very small gap between the shoes and bell. Now take off the clutchbell, install the bearings, and adjust the spacers so you get the gap you want. Now add spacers at the end, just under the screw that holds the whole mess together so the is almost no wiggle (end play).
If the pins protrude above the shoe when the engine is static, then when you set the endbell float, you are setting the gap between the endbell and the top of the pins. You will have no idea what the gap between the shoe and the bell is, which is what you are really trying to set.
Cutting down the pins below the level of the shoe, allows the bell to sit on top of the shoe, and the gap to be set correctly.
The pins dont even have to touch the bell, but at 0.2mm clearance, the wobble in the bearings is probably enough to allow the pins to touch the bell and score it.
I do have a score line on the bell. I shall dremmel off the tops of the pins and report back.
08-17-2005, 06:00 AM
#8526
Tech Initiate
rbridd
u say the clutch bell moves along the shaft. this shouldnt happen, check the barings and shims at the clutch bell.
the high revs mean that the gap is to large. your engine revs that high because the clutch shoes has to move a larger area with higher rpm.
a larger gap can be good when ya want "more bite" faster at acceleration.
a smaller gap is good when ya want a smooth ecceleration.
set the “gap”. The “gap” is the distance between the clutch shoe and the clutch bell when it is at its farthest position from the shoe as possible. Install the clutch bell onto the crankshaft without the inner bearing – this will allow the clutch bell to make contact with the shoe without the bearing stopping it. Now, install the outer bearing, thrust assembly (including thrust retainer) and the 3mm screw. Tighten the screw down and check the clutch bell. There should be plenty of endplay that will give us the room to shim the “gap” properly. To shim the gap, place thin shims over the thrust retainer to the outside of the thrust assembly. Creating a smoother clutch engagement and feel usually yields a .35mm-.50mm gap setting. To create a more aggressive bottom end feel the gap usually yields a .55mm-.70mm setting. Setting less than a .35mm is not ideal as it can lead to clutch drag, especially as the clutch heats up. This can lead to excessive heat and a glazed clutch shoe. Setting more than .70mm is dangerous for several reasons. In a hard impact it is more likely for the clutch weights to be ejected from the clutch – seems impossible but it has been done!! Also, the .70mm can lead to what is called “spring bind” where basically the spring doesn't have enough compression travel so it won't allow the clutch shoe to come out far enough to fully engage the clutch – this can lead to premature wear and failure of the clutch. Generally, .35mm-.50mm is great for finals and controlling wheel spin on a slippery race track and .55mm-.70 is great for qualifying and high traction applications.
and if this is not clear.. maybe this wil work
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10532
u say the clutch bell moves along the shaft. this shouldnt happen, check the barings and shims at the clutch bell.
the high revs mean that the gap is to large. your engine revs that high because the clutch shoes has to move a larger area with higher rpm.
a larger gap can be good when ya want "more bite" faster at acceleration.
a smaller gap is good when ya want a smooth ecceleration.
set the “gap”. The “gap” is the distance between the clutch shoe and the clutch bell when it is at its farthest position from the shoe as possible. Install the clutch bell onto the crankshaft without the inner bearing – this will allow the clutch bell to make contact with the shoe without the bearing stopping it. Now, install the outer bearing, thrust assembly (including thrust retainer) and the 3mm screw. Tighten the screw down and check the clutch bell. There should be plenty of endplay that will give us the room to shim the “gap” properly. To shim the gap, place thin shims over the thrust retainer to the outside of the thrust assembly. Creating a smoother clutch engagement and feel usually yields a .35mm-.50mm gap setting. To create a more aggressive bottom end feel the gap usually yields a .55mm-.70mm setting. Setting less than a .35mm is not ideal as it can lead to clutch drag, especially as the clutch heats up. This can lead to excessive heat and a glazed clutch shoe. Setting more than .70mm is dangerous for several reasons. In a hard impact it is more likely for the clutch weights to be ejected from the clutch – seems impossible but it has been done!! Also, the .70mm can lead to what is called “spring bind” where basically the spring doesn't have enough compression travel so it won't allow the clutch shoe to come out far enough to fully engage the clutch – this can lead to premature wear and failure of the clutch. Generally, .35mm-.50mm is great for finals and controlling wheel spin on a slippery race track and .55mm-.70 is great for qualifying and high traction applications.
and if this is not clear.. maybe this wil work
http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10532
08-17-2005, 07:39 AM
#8527
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Hmm, I have two rear cf towers. Wonder if I should do it. Man it would look beefy I bet.
Originally Posted by k_bojar
gotta love snapping a CF shock tower...I snapped one on saturday with a wicked hit tumbling off the track...snapped the damn tower at the first setting mark...
so back on went the aluminum shock tower and crappy body posts...and we were back in business....
After I fixed the leaky front diff, the car was on rails and flying......
so back on went the aluminum shock tower and crappy body posts...and we were back in business....
After I fixed the leaky front diff, the car was on rails and flying......
08-17-2005, 09:41 AM
#8528
Still adding a few more things to the car. I went and swapped out the engine screws for some hex screws. I also got rid of those aluminum washer from hpi and got some purple ones that have a beveled edge. Seems like it wont scratch as easy now.
Iam trying to find some 4mm ti engine screws if anyone knows where to get them, lunsford has the exact screw but in 3mm, not 4mm. Wonder who else makes ti screws and such?
Also does anyone know where to get ti pivotballs and anything else ti for our cars: hingepins,ballstuds, etc. I cant seem to find really anything else.
I also recieved my one piece engine mount. I got this for like $14 shipped. Im hoping it fits, ill let you guys know on that one.
Iam trying to find some 4mm ti engine screws if anyone knows where to get them, lunsford has the exact screw but in 3mm, not 4mm. Wonder who else makes ti screws and such?
Also does anyone know where to get ti pivotballs and anything else ti for our cars: hingepins,ballstuds, etc. I cant seem to find really anything else.
I also recieved my one piece engine mount. I got this for like $14 shipped. Im hoping it fits, ill let you guys know on that one.
08-17-2005, 12:11 PM
#8529
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Still adding a few more things to the car. I went and swapped out the engine screws for some hex screws. I also got rid of those aluminum washer from hpi and got some purple ones that have a beveled edge. Seems like it wont scratch as easy now.
SpeedMind might do some 4mm ti hex screws.
08-17-2005, 12:13 PM
#8530
no posts from fastharry lately, he hasnt sold his r40 or sumit lol
08-17-2005, 12:16 PM
#8531
08-17-2005, 02:17 PM
#8532
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Louisville, KY!.. USA!! ....Home of http://www.fastharry.com
Posts: 2,847
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Originally Posted by Hesky
no posts from fastharry lately, he hasnt sold his r40 or sumit lol
sumit?.......
08-17-2005, 03:16 PM
#8534
Mugen's engine mount screws for the MRX-4 work great and have a 2.5mm hex, so you can hand torque with ease.
Originally Posted by Hesky
yeah the posi engine screws suck!! I need to get some hex ones atleast.
SpeedMind might do some 4mm ti hex screws.
SpeedMind might do some 4mm ti hex screws.
