DOMOisCOOL

PW is:

rctech

boom

iTrader: (10)

email address or mobile #?

DOMOisCOOL

Email address is [email protected]

OB42TC3

That will change raise the starting point for the roll center, it would compensate for running larger tire diameters, you maybe would want it with rubber tires as well. Definately wouldn't want to do either with smallish tires 55-58 mm as the arm may actually angle down from inside to outside of car which really raises the roll center, creating a lifting force where the suspension would at a point want to extend instead of compress.

stanky626

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys for the battery mod info.

Domo, nice pics... the mod job looks very clean. It looks like you cut half your battery box off... I assume so the battery door still has something to bolt on to, right?

AMG, thanks for the input on the RX box... I paid $75 for it, better to take care of it.

BTW, does anyone race in Los Angeles? Revelation Raceway, Crystal Park, or Sun Valley?

DOMOisCOOL

Thanks.

Yeah, I cut 3/4 of the box to be exact. I plan on shaving off more unneeded plastic later this week.

finbone

how do you figure the final drive ratio? also where are good websites for aftermarket parts?

goldenboy

for option parts.. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?language=en

Proteus

LOL! It took me awhile to figure that one out too! I've tried one and I've tried both, but I like it better without. I'll keep you guessing for a little bit longer. I'll give you a hint. It's for the roll center....

Laters,

Jeff

treky11

I did something like Fastharry.

I removed the box altogether. I am running the trinity pack light weight pack, sho gooed directly to the battery plate on the chassis. I slid it forward a bit to clear the back of the gas tank. I took two screws/nuts and use them to hold the battery plate to the chassis.

It gives you a lot more room to run the wires to the rx box and makes it easier to keep them clear of the steering servo. I used a couple of zip ties to keep the wires neat.

I have a switch with a charge lead so I can charge no problem. If I need to get to the battery I can pop the tank easily (great feature of the r40) and have access to the battery or the nuts to remove the battery plate.

If I have to change the battery the sho goo can easily be removed to seperate the battery plate and the rx pack.

I'll try to post some pics in a day or so.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

you're killing me...

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey all, I know that this was covered a while ago and that hpi makes a kit for the diff mod. But I searched on the forum and was not able to find the shafts that people were using to complete this mod, I do remeber that some were using ofna shafts but I was not able to recall which cars they were from.

thanks all Jason

wangcc61

Try the post here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...632#post721632

jscamry

iTrader: (5)

thanks wangcc61, so the savage useses the shafts with the slots in them? its is not to clear inthe pic....
thanks Jason

stanky626

iTrader: (5)

In case anyone was thinking of getting the PTI Mustang body... it doesn't fit on the R40, or the Nitro RS4 for that matter. The body is about 1/2" too short. I suppose you can shave the foam bumper down... but, you'll sacrafice some front end protection. So, now that the body is all painted and ready to go... it'll just be sitting on my bookshelf.

What bodies are you guys running out there? The Stratus seems to be the most popular around my home track.