jscamry

iTrader: (5)

hey all I have seen people w/ a carbon fiber strip connecting the body posts, does anyone know where i can find this item?

thanks Jason

AMGRacer

Raced the R40 yesterday with the Rulon clutch shoe and I had it a little tight. The clutch was slipping until it got about mid way through the powerband. Low and behold the front bearing on the clutch took a dump. I think that if the clutch is heating up a lot the small front bearing is just too small and cant take the heat.

TerraX

Any thoughts on whether or not a ceramic bearing in the clutch could have prevented this?

AMGRacer

I am unsure. In any event I think the bearing is much too small to retain sufficient lubrication at high RPM. The real solution is a bigger capacity bearing with a modified clutch housing.

NCC

AMG- Do you run alot gap on your clutchbell? I usually
run very little or no gap which saves on the front
Bearing.




I will like to see a revised hpi fuel tank that's 75cc
and not 72cc. Hpi needs to relabel the package
also. That will remove some fuel stress.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

they already have..

its in the new kits..

InitialD

Do you mean clutch gap as in the gap spacing between the clutchbell and the clutch shoe or do you mean end play of the clutchbell after putting together the clutchbell?

The clutch gap does not affect the way the bearings take a hit. It's the end play that is important. Try to reduce this (by putting shims between the clutch nut and bearing) and you can run large clutch gap (for more agressive clutch setting) and still save your bearings.

fastharry™

iTrader: (4)

D....you mean in front of the spring retainer,and behind the inner big bearing?...

BTW,Happy Birthday.....(mines the day after yours..)..

stanky626

iTrader: (5)

Hey Guys, I read that some of you removed the battery box from your cars... just wondering, how do you keep the battery in place? I was thinking about taping the battery, but what would I strap it to?... that fuel tank?

I think I ready someone removed the receiver box, too... can anyone give me details on that mod. thanks.

InitialD

Yes. Shim it, then assemble the whole thing back and check the end play. You can either use 5x8 or 5x7 shims. The aim is to minimise the end play as much as possible. The ideal would be to leave only very little end play. That is to make sure that you do not overshim as you'll bust the normal bearings inside when you tighten down the screw in front if you put too much shim.

TQ. Happy Birthday to you to in advance.

AMGRacer

Yeah I usually run around 0.5mm endplay not including clutch gap. The clutch was coming in so hard I could feel the whole car shudder when I was holding it up. Man it felt awesome on the track however.

AMGRacer

Is there a way to tell the new from the old?

AMGRacer

I dont set my clutch this way, I use the Mugen or HPI method as described in the various instructions. This method hammers the bearings a bit more with more movement I guess.

AMGRacer

I use Shoe Goo to keep my battery and personal transponder glued to the battery box door. Seems to work well so far. I used tape and this kinda was annoying since it made the bottom of the chassis not flat anymore.

I personally would not advise removing the receiver box. This thing keeps the receiver very nice and safe from vibration, dirt and impacts and is I believe the best RX box in the current nitro car crop. Several other cars have the RX unit sitting out exposed or mostly exposed. The weight saving will be minimal compared to the cost of replacing a RX unit. Just my opinion.

NCC

I was referring to end play. Too much of end play
puts more stress on the front bearing.