SebO

iTrader: (1)

rear hubs VZ262
shock tower VZW228
shocks W5301V
brake disc VZW227
Offset Wheel Hub VZW226

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

also the shimo clutch vzw229

JPFX

iTrader: (3)

What difference in handling do the rear hubs (VZ262) on the shimo edition have? Are they better for low traction?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I believe the new hub is the same shape/design, what was changed was the material.

mrlahey

Where do I find the carbon braces that go between the body posts?

30Tooth

iTrader: (1)

Sorry for not responding sooner,didn't receive a notification of thread reply.
Will post a photo this day.
http://img513.imageshack.us/i/img318d.jpg/ from a magazine...only photo i could manage to get.Hidalgo used a xray fuel tank and servo-saver and cut the upper deck rear supporting blocks that's all it says in the description.
*image won't work try it now please*

B.C.Ninja

Allright guys setup time, I've got a yearly held race event comming up and need some setup pointers, pretty much my car has been set up like one of the fast guys in our club but hes a real aggressive driver and I'm feeling the rear of the car is a little loose at corner exit and I seem to be havin some mid turn push, the track has stuff all traction so we run a decent amount of droop, soft susspension and usually 35 shore tyres, the car seems to be running well but I find that I could do with more turn in and a more stable exit, at the moment it seems a bit scittery, so anyway attached is some pics of the track and if anyone would like to post up some setups that they use for parkinglot races it would be a great help.

DJ_Shakespear

Seems almost like my track - OK ill post what I can.
(basically use the kit setup and work from there)
Gearing: standard 16/61 21/56 gears or 16/60
front upper arms: 2nd highest position
flat front blade to begin with
2nd lowest suspension hole - 40wt oil
1-2 degrees toe out
if you want good initial turn in, use 100-150k weight diff oil and go up from there - I just use a spool most of the time.

rear camber link: outermost lower hole
rear bottom arm: 2nd lowest position
2.5-3 degrees toe in
40wt shock oil
30K wt diff oil

This is something close to what Im running now, only instead of using 35s all round, I use 37F and 40R combo and it works well for me on every track I've driven on - only needed to change the rear suspension hole depending on how much grip is available

Keep the 2mm split, let the revs come in a little early and with a 0.3-0.4mm clutch gap.
200mm all round.
if the front grip is good but lacks steering ability, make it narrower (199-198mm) or make the rear shock more vertical.
Its a little hard to explain without going into detail here, but here is a short version:
start with the shocks to get the grip in the area you need, if its good all round (through steering transitions and through corners) but oversteers on power/out of a corner, soften the rear diff (eg from 40K wt to 30K wt).
I start getting good grip all round (no understeer to oversteer situations), then go for the steering, then find the minimum settings in the rear (rarely)
Phew!!

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i think your making things more complicated for him DJ.

BC. Ninja ............
why not post up the setup your using now, it maybe simple as a bit of droop change to get your steering where you need it. sounds like its close , but just needs refinement for your driving style.

DJ_Shakespear

Hahaha, I know, I tried to make it simple apart from making a photo of my setup - I wish it were easier.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

your description of your setup help is so vague, but yet so contradicting at the same time. just trying to be polite as to say why your under fire of late, thats all.
its better for Ninja to post up his setup, as it sounds close to where he wants it to be, rather than to completely change up to something he might not be able to change back to quick enough and loose valuable track time, you know how valuable track time is surely ?

B.C.Ninja

Its all good guys, pretty much I was looking for what most people run and then I can work from there, the problem I have had is people usually just set your car up and don't tell you why they have done what they have done, I think from what I have read over the forum so far that I need a lighter rear diff, abit mor toe and more camber in the rear, the droop is about right in the rear but I might need to lessen it in the front abit, the shocks and roll center are about right. So I'll reset the car and post up my setup and all can chime in from there.

Cheers for the help guys.

DJ_Shakespear

Hmm, contradicting? I don't know how really - its only a little bit different from the box setup.
Except for maybe the "hints" i put in, that's just what I had noticed when I changed things around, but then again it is probably different on other tracks.
Thanks Patto.

DuVulcha

iTrader: (13)

OK quick question. I stepped up from a TC3 to a V ONE RRR. Got it all together, broke in motor (7 tanks) and finally got ready to run it a bit. take it pretty calmly through some corners and hit the straight and gun it. The motors signature did not reflect the cars actual acceleration and when I breaked at end then gassed it to get out of turn motor wailed but car didnt push. I couple of throttle pulls and the clutch finally engaged again. I did this continually coming off high RPMs. Could this be my clutch spring was too tight? any help would be greatly appreciated.

Speedypeterb

iTrader: (16)

there are two possibilities yes the clutch adjusting nut could be to tight or you may have to mutch clutch shoe gap. you can easily figure out which one it is by looking at the clutch bell and reving up the motor a little ( not full throttle) if you see no movement of the clutch you nut is probably to tight. if you see the clutch move rather quickly then your gap is to much. if you have a manual set the clutch to stock and work it from there.