Originally Posted by blount

Tory, I beleive you might be correct with the shock oil comparison. I would suggest going 600 kyosho oil front and rear. For the diffs I normaly just take a clean rage to it and wipe all the old grease out then refill. I recommend going with 20k kyosho for a good starting weight. For bearings I would clean with some type of nitro cleaner then relube with bearing oil. If the bearing doesn't spin freely after cleaning I would replace. Try to make this a after every race ritual. I clean bearings after every race. They've lasted me a whole season, plus! With the 2-speed if its starts being inconsistant repalce it. I recommend always having a new spare one built and ready in case it starts to malfunction. If you just think its time for a new one then replace everything to be sure it's good. Same thing with the clutch as with the bearing. You should check after each race. Clean the bearings and check the shoe and spring. I normaly wipe the bell down and check to see if there is a residue glaze from the shoe. This will cause the clutch to slip. Also, check the shoe for excessive wear. Compare to a new shoe if looks real worn change it. Hope this helps!

Originally Posted by YmeBP

O.k. I'll have to do that this week. Is it worth it to replace the bearings with ceramic ones.

I also have questions about titanium. I have access to titanium parts like screws etc, is it worth the investment?

Originally Posted by blount

Check your motor mount it might be bent. I saw one like that at the nationals from one of the racers. Also, what gears are you running? It was explained to me to keep the gear ratio equal between the first and second. For example: 16/61 22/55=77. 17/60 22/55=77 Along with all the other stuff that has been mentioned about this topic. I've ran the same gears for muliply races.

Originally Posted by mhavlena

Would you think that a bent one-piece engine mount be necessarily visible to the naked eye? the mount is one of the few parts that I did not change and I don't have a spare. I have the original two-piece engine mount...do you think it a major drawback to use that?

About the gear ratios, I've been told that this does not apply to certain cars like the V-One as the gears all have equal diameters. To achieve this, Kyosho cheats with the pitch of the gears, I've been running, as many others have from this site, gear ratios that do not equate. Please read previous posts, this topic has been covered.

Thx

Originally Posted by mhavlena

Would you think that a bent one-piece engine mount be necessarily visible to the naked eye? the mount is one of the few parts that I did not change and I don't have a spare. I have the original two-piece engine mount...do you think it a major drawback to use that?

About the gear ratios, I've been told that this does not apply to certain cars like the V-One as the gears all have equal diameters. To achieve this, Kyosho cheats with the pitch of the gears, I've been running, as many others have from this site, gear ratios that do not equate. Please read previous posts, this topic has been covered.

Thx

Originally Posted by mcsquish

Mike Here is everything I checked:
-replaced the plastic chassis brace (I replaced it with an aluminum one)
-make sure you aren't using too long of a screw in the rear chassis brace. You will think it's tight, but it may be hitting the bearing.
-make sure the motor is not moving. Again using too long of a screw will cause issues.
-replace the clutch bearings. It may be a bad bearing causing the clutch bell to move away from the spur.
-make sure there isn't too much slop in the 2-speed. It may be shifting so hard that it is causing the issue.
-I had issues with using the Kyosho TI 2-speed shaft (others have not) with it flexing. I now run the YBSlow, it is made from good quality Titanium.
-replace the rear bulkheads, the bearings that the 2-speed shaft over time can open up the plastic and have a little movement.
-I set my mesh tighter than I used to. I set it with just the 2nd gear on and just loose enough it isn't grinding (the gears will wear in) then check it again with both spurs installed. If the mesh is too tight on 1st gear i will leave one engine screw just loose enough I can pivot the engine and loosen the mesh. I also usually will remove the pipe so I'm not fighting that.

It ended up being that I needed to replace the rear bulkheads. The first time I replaced them I didn't have any new ones and got a set of "lightly" used ones from a friend (big mistake). The 2-speed shaft bearings had opened the holes just a tiny bit to allow movement.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need other ideas, I know this was a very frustrating problem.

Originally Posted by mhavlena

Can anyone confirm whether there should be play with the 2 speed clutch shoe (FM360) when installed on the 2 speed holder (FM361). In other words, should the 2 speed clutch shoe rock a little when installed on it metal holder??

I thought I understood that there should be some play from the guys at the track to avoid spur gear stripping, but I also read over here that there should be no play...please confirm?

Thx

Originally Posted by barg

I set mine to almost no play.... just a tiny bit.

You will find that over time the play will increase and you will have to tighten slightly every couple of meetings.

Just one of those things to keep an eye on when you service your car.

Originally Posted by AdrianOngs

Which Clutch Shoes you guys are using? And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?

Originally Posted by AdrianOngs

And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?

Originally Posted by AdrianOngs

Which Clutch Shoes you guys are using? And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?