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Old 09-14-2009, 09:08 AM   #1576
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Tory, I beleive you might be correct with the shock oil comparison. I would suggest going 600 kyosho oil front and rear. For the diffs I normaly just take a clean rage to it and wipe all the old grease out then refill. I recommend going with 20k kyosho for a good starting weight. For bearings I would clean with some type of nitro cleaner then relube with bearing oil. If the bearing doesn't spin freely after cleaning I would replace. Try to make this a after every race ritual. I clean bearings after every race. They've lasted me a whole season, plus! With the 2-speed if its starts being inconsistant repalce it. I recommend always having a new spare one built and ready in case it starts to malfunction. If you just think its time for a new one then replace everything to be sure it's good. Same thing with the clutch as with the bearing. You should check after each race. Clean the bearings and check the shoe and spring. I normaly wipe the bell down and check to see if there is a residue glaze from the shoe. This will cause the clutch to slip. Also, check the shoe for excessive wear. Compare to a new shoe if looks real worn change it. Hope this helps!
O.k. I'll have to do that this week. Is it worth it to replace the bearings with ceramic ones.

I also have questions about titanium. I have access to titanium parts like screws etc, is it worth the investment?
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:18 AM   #1577
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O.k. I'll have to do that this week. Is it worth it to replace the bearings with ceramic ones.

I also have questions about titanium. I have access to titanium parts like screws etc, is it worth the investment?
Ceramics are good but pricey. You can go either way with them. Titanium is good also. If your trying to lighten the car it might help. The beauty of the RRR is you can leave it stock and the car is fine. The key is to make sure it is always in good running condition. Always think PREVENTIVE MAINTANANCE! I ran my car box stock for about 11 months before a tried a few minor upgrades. Put the money in a relaible good running engine. That's where the pain can come in with gas racing if the engine is not right.
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Old 09-14-2009, 03:58 PM   #1578
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Check your motor mount it might be bent. I saw one like that at the nationals from one of the racers. Also, what gears are you running? It was explained to me to keep the gear ratio equal between the first and second. For example: 16/61 22/55=77. 17/60 22/55=77 Along with all the other stuff that has been mentioned about this topic. I've ran the same gears for muliply races.
Would you think that a bent one-piece engine mount be necessarily visible to the naked eye? the mount is one of the few parts that I did not change and I don't have a spare. I have the original two-piece engine mount...do you think it a major drawback to use that?

About the gear ratios, I've been told that this does not apply to certain cars like the V-One as the gears all have equal diameters. To achieve this, Kyosho cheats with the pitch of the gears, I've been running, as many others have from this site, gear ratios that do not equate. Please read previous posts, this topic has been covered.

Thx
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Old 09-14-2009, 06:59 PM   #1579
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Would you think that a bent one-piece engine mount be necessarily visible to the naked eye? the mount is one of the few parts that I did not change and I don't have a spare. I have the original two-piece engine mount...do you think it a major drawback to use that?

About the gear ratios, I've been told that this does not apply to certain cars like the V-One as the gears all have equal diameters. To achieve this, Kyosho cheats with the pitch of the gears, I've been running, as many others have from this site, gear ratios that do not equate. Please read previous posts, this topic has been covered.

Thx
Your right about the gears, I stand corrected. If you changed everything and you still have a gear stripping problem that might be the one thing you missed. Either mounts are good!
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:27 PM   #1580
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get someone else to have a look at your car as they might see something that you might have missed.
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Old 09-14-2009, 10:36 PM   #1581
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Would you think that a bent one-piece engine mount be necessarily visible to the naked eye? the mount is one of the few parts that I did not change and I don't have a spare. I have the original two-piece engine mount...do you think it a major drawback to use that?

About the gear ratios, I've been told that this does not apply to certain cars like the V-One as the gears all have equal diameters. To achieve this, Kyosho cheats with the pitch of the gears, I've been running, as many others have from this site, gear ratios that do not equate. Please read previous posts, this topic has been covered.

Thx
I bent the rear of my engine mount at nationals this year (i don't know, but the back piece was bent inward) and did strip a number of spur gears before I was able to get the mesh proper again.
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:27 PM   #1582
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Default 2 speed clutch adjustment

Can anyone confirm whether there should be play with the 2 speed clutch shoe (FM360) when installed on the 2 speed holder (FM361). In other words, should the 2 speed clutch shoe rock a little when installed on it metal holder??

I thought I understood that there should be some play from the guys at the track to avoid spur gear stripping, but I also read over here that there should be no play...please confirm?

Thx
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:31 PM   #1583
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Mike Here is everything I checked:
-replaced the plastic chassis brace (I replaced it with an aluminum one)
-make sure you aren't using too long of a screw in the rear chassis brace. You will think it's tight, but it may be hitting the bearing.
-make sure the motor is not moving. Again using too long of a screw will cause issues.
-replace the clutch bearings. It may be a bad bearing causing the clutch bell to move away from the spur.
-make sure there isn't too much slop in the 2-speed. It may be shifting so hard that it is causing the issue.
-I had issues with using the Kyosho TI 2-speed shaft (others have not) with it flexing. I now run the YBSlow, it is made from good quality Titanium.
-replace the rear bulkheads, the bearings that the 2-speed shaft over time can open up the plastic and have a little movement.
-I set my mesh tighter than I used to. I set it with just the 2nd gear on and just loose enough it isn't grinding (the gears will wear in) then check it again with both spurs installed. If the mesh is too tight on 1st gear i will leave one engine screw just loose enough I can pivot the engine and loosen the mesh. I also usually will remove the pipe so I'm not fighting that.

It ended up being that I needed to replace the rear bulkheads. The first time I replaced them I didn't have any new ones and got a set of "lightly" used ones from a friend (big mistake). The 2-speed shaft bearings had opened the holes just a tiny bit to allow movement.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you need other ideas, I know this was a very frustrating problem.
In reference to my last question...what do you mean when you say "ensure that there isn't too much slop in the 2 speed"...Thx
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:57 PM   #1584
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Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Can anyone confirm whether there should be play with the 2 speed clutch shoe (FM360) when installed on the 2 speed holder (FM361). In other words, should the 2 speed clutch shoe rock a little when installed on it metal holder??

I thought I understood that there should be some play from the guys at the track to avoid spur gear stripping, but I also read over here that there should be no play...please confirm?

Thx
I set mine to almost no play.... just a tiny bit.

You will find that over time the play will increase and you will have to tighten slightly every couple of meetings.

Just one of those things to keep an eye on when you service your car.
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:08 PM   #1585
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I set mine to almost no play.... just a tiny bit.

You will find that over time the play will increase and you will have to tighten slightly every couple of meetings.

Just one of those things to keep an eye on when you service your car.
Could the difference between no play and "tiny bit of play" be the difference between stripping spur gears or not?

So, we should look at amount of play when installed in the holder and also ensure that the shoe is flush within the spur..correct? Both these adjustments are accomplished via the set screws, correct?

Thx
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Old 09-16-2009, 10:24 PM   #1586
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Im just thinkin about it and makin some suggestions. When is it actualy stripping? Is is stripping when it shifts, when you tangle with someone, or just random spots on the track. You said you had a bad crash, so a bent chassis come to mind. I would try taking the first gear off and looking at the spur and pinion and see if they are both straight (the pinion isnt at a slight angle compared to the spur). Move the pinion back and forth and look for play while watching the mesh. Tweak the chassis and look at the mesh. Its amazing how much the mesh changes with just a little chassis flex. Spin the gears and watch the mesh maybe something isnt true anymore. Well anyways good luck. I hope you figure it out.
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Old 09-21-2009, 12:31 AM   #1587
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Which Clutch Shoes you guys are using? And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?
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Old 09-21-2009, 01:33 AM   #1588
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Which Clutch Shoes you guys are using? And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?
I prefer the grey clutch shoe.
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Old 09-21-2009, 04:35 AM   #1589
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And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?
The tighter the later (on higher rpm) the clutch will engage. Tighter will make the car launch itself better when pulling the trigger, on the other hand if too tight it can make driving difficult on slow corners etc. Try to find the balance in between.
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Old 09-21-2009, 07:40 AM   #1590
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Which Clutch Shoes you guys are using? And, how does the tightness of the clutch spring affect the acceleration?
lately I have found the yellow shoes to be superior with the orion spring. (4d, sirio and idm clutches have these available)

your track will dictate how much you can really use though, I never noticed the green spring fading until I went to Toledo and had more traction than you could ever want without rolling.
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