MRX-4X
#916
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
+1
Thank you!
Thank you!
Only issue on this is that it doesn’t take into account "Moment of inertia" This means that the object will react to torque with less force. RC transaction is that the car will rotate easier and thus quicker if the chassis has a reduced moment of inertia.
Bottom line is:
1)always run a light as possible (by rules if weights are taken)
2)move any weight required as low and as close to the center of the chassis.
3)move any weight from higher locations on the chassis or from locations further from the center of the chassis to lower or more centralized locations.
Bottom line is:
1)always run a light as possible (by rules if weights are taken)
2)move any weight required as low and as close to the center of the chassis.
3)move any weight from higher locations on the chassis or from locations further from the center of the chassis to lower or more centralized locations.
#918
Ofcourse you can. Keep in mind that if you are way behind the toplevel (worldclass) drivers you will gain almost nothing with only taking away weight of the car. You will gain more with altering the driving techniques and changing setups.
#919
New 3-Pin Clutch question
Hi, I'm back in the Hobby after a three year absence. I have up-dated my Mugen MRX-4R to a X version more or less. I'm catching up on the the latest set-ups and bodies (using the PF 909).I have run one race in Dallas three weeks ago.
My question is on the new 3 Pin clutch. Is anybody using the new clutch?
1. Is the MSR hard spring the way to go?
2. Stock fly weights or Lighten fly weights?
3. Clutch critical Settings?
I tried the 3-Pin in practice at Dallas, The clutch felt too heavy.
The other Mugen drivers I ask in Dallas about this issue are using
the 4-Pin clutch. Terry Brown (who won the race) told me he has'nt
tried the clutch yet.
I see looking at the set-up sheets Mike posted for the Winter Nats for his
and Ralph's car, It depicts "One 4 MM hole" in the fly weights. Did they use the 4-Pin or the 3-Pin clutch?
Thanks for your help,
Dale
My question is on the new 3 Pin clutch. Is anybody using the new clutch?
1. Is the MSR hard spring the way to go?
2. Stock fly weights or Lighten fly weights?
3. Clutch critical Settings?
I tried the 3-Pin in practice at Dallas, The clutch felt too heavy.
The other Mugen drivers I ask in Dallas about this issue are using
the 4-Pin clutch. Terry Brown (who won the race) told me he has'nt
tried the clutch yet.
I see looking at the set-up sheets Mike posted for the Winter Nats for his
and Ralph's car, It depicts "One 4 MM hole" in the fly weights. Did they use the 4-Pin or the 3-Pin clutch?
Thanks for your help,
Dale
#920
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
Of course there's no substitute for track time to be quicker. But building these cars and customizing them as we see fit is also a big part of the enjoyment of this hobby for me. I do feel however that in a race car, lighter is always faster, no matter what level you're at.
#921
Tech Regular
Hi there,
a quick question regarding clutch shoes:
For the first time my shop got only H0707 (black) on stock. I will give it a try.
Does anybody know something about the characteristics of the black shoe?
Am I right in assuming: Black=very litte slip; grey= more slip; yellow=most slip and therefore hardest acceleration if track grip level allows?
and another one regarding brake pads:
Some guys run one pad Teflon (yellow) and one pad black (rubber?). What´s the benefit of this set-up? Better deceleration or less "grippy" (to avoid lock-up)?
Thanks a lot and best regards,
Stefan
a quick question regarding clutch shoes:
For the first time my shop got only H0707 (black) on stock. I will give it a try.
Does anybody know something about the characteristics of the black shoe?
Am I right in assuming: Black=very litte slip; grey= more slip; yellow=most slip and therefore hardest acceleration if track grip level allows?
and another one regarding brake pads:
Some guys run one pad Teflon (yellow) and one pad black (rubber?). What´s the benefit of this set-up? Better deceleration or less "grippy" (to avoid lock-up)?
Thanks a lot and best regards,
Stefan
#922
As far as clutch shoes go, I hate the black one. It just doesn't have the rip I need. Red and yellow are my favorites but the grey is very good too.
The black brake pads had very good grip but were maybe a bit too grippy and tended to fade. The yellows are very smooth but sometimes didn't have enough grip. 1 of each is a very nice compromise.
The black brake pads had very good grip but were maybe a bit too grippy and tended to fade. The yellows are very smooth but sometimes didn't have enough grip. 1 of each is a very nice compromise.
#923
Tech Regular
Thanks for the insight wingracer. Much appreciated!
#924
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
As far as clutch shoes go, I hate the black one. It just doesn't have the rip I need. Red and yellow are my favorites but the grey is very good too.
The black brake pads had very good grip but were maybe a bit too grippy and tended to fade. The yellows are very smooth but sometimes didn't have enough grip. 1 of each is a very nice compromise.
The black brake pads had very good grip but were maybe a bit too grippy and tended to fade. The yellows are very smooth but sometimes didn't have enough grip. 1 of each is a very nice compromise.
3 weight clutch gimmick;
Spent last Saturday working on this clutch. Yellow shoe, NEW M.S.R. spring. If you look at the fly weight you will see to molded dots. The dot furthest away from the hole for the flywheel pin is the one that I drilled to 3mm to start.
Set the spring to .7mm. Ran the car/tightened the nut. When I saw yellow dust all over the radio try brace I stopped and drilled the weights in small increments and started the process over again. Ended up at 4mm holes with the spring at .8 . This clutch is money, SMOOOOTH!
#925
I was just browsing the Tower website and they show the MRX-4X as "Discontinued". What's up with that ?
#928
#930
Dale
Last edited by djmachinist; 05-18-2009 at 02:43 PM.