1LikesKyosho VoneR Thread
08-29-2004, 05:24 PM
Is that the format of the XXX Main set-up book? The cause, effect & solution design may workout.
Yup, format wise, they inspired me .....
but the material was compiled for my benefit/shortcomings, and all the things that could possibly confuse me... so it may not be beneficial for all bar page 6, which includes a quick ref of the summaries where you could paste in on your tool box while wrenching if you don't wanna committ this to memory.As for the book you can get it from Tower Hobbies at this link
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...de&FVPROFIL=++
It costs USD18.39
08-29-2004, 05:29 PM
Originally posted by thescum
Yup, format wise, they inspired me ..... but the material was compiled for my benefit/shortcomings, and all the things that could possibly confuse me... so it may not be beneficial for all bar page 6, which includes a quick ref of the summaries where you could paste in on your tool box while wrenching if you don't wanna committ this to memory.
As for the book you can get it from Tower Hobbies at this link
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...de&FVPROFIL=++
It costs USD18.39
Yup, format wise, they inspired me .....
but the material was compiled for my benefit/shortcomings, and all the things that could possibly confuse me... so it may not be beneficial for all bar page 6, which includes a quick ref of the summaries where you could paste in on your tool box while wrenching if you don't wanna committ this to memory.As for the book you can get it from Tower Hobbies at this link
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...de&FVPROFIL=++
It costs USD18.39
I know how some feel about traxxas, but they really do have a good troubleshooting guide insert with their kits in a problem->issue->solution format.
08-29-2004, 06:32 PM
Yup i know, me wife's got the T-maxx, in fact certain input was sought from the manual and all of page 7 was from them anyways....
08-29-2004, 07:25 PM
Originally posted by thescum
Yup i know, me wife's got the T-maxx, in fact certain input was sought from the manual and all of page 7 was from them anyways....
Yup i know, me wife's got the T-maxx, in fact certain input was sought from the manual and all of page 7 was from them anyways....
Actually, she pits for me on occassion, you know, when I beg with the lost "I can't run Sunday" look!
^5
08-29-2004, 07:27 PM
Sidetracked
Now back to V1R/RR/Evo/RRR stuff
08-29-2004, 08:24 PM
Originally posted by thescum
Thanks for the input guys,
the binding's existent without the steering knuckles installed.
anyways, was just wondering whether this was normal, coz my RR and then evo were quite free. Anyways the new design's quite a change from the previous versions.
Thanks for the input guys,
the binding's existent without the steering knuckles installed.
anyways, was just wondering whether this was normal, coz my RR and then evo were quite free. Anyways the new design's quite a change from the previous versions.
08-29-2004, 08:29 PM
That tab is supposed to help you eyeball the suspension to check for tweak.
If you set it up, you have to re-check tweak without the rollbar blades. It will change your up/down stop settings.
^5
If you set it up, you have to re-check tweak without the rollbar blades. It will change your up/down stop settings.
^5
08-29-2004, 08:31 PM
That tab is supposed to help you eyeball the suspension to check for tweak.
Rather, it's angle should be parallel to the bottom suspension arm when tightened.
Sorry for the bad description.
Rather, it's angle should be parallel to the bottom suspension arm when tightened.
Sorry for the bad description.
08-29-2004, 08:42 PM
Originally posted by Tom G
That tab is supposed to help you eyeball the suspension to check for tweak.
Rather, it's angle should be parallel to the bottom suspension arm when tightened.
Sorry for the bad description.
That tab is supposed to help you eyeball the suspension to check for tweak.
Rather, it's angle should be parallel to the bottom suspension arm when tightened.
Sorry for the bad description.
08-29-2004, 09:09 PM
Hey Scum, I rebuilt my Evo for this weekend's race. And notices my front arms weren't free hanging. I discovered that it was caused by the stabilizer tab collar. See attachment for details.
BTW Adoika, i have the same prob with the play on the RRR top a-arms, had about 1.4-1.5mm of slop at first but then upon checking, realised that the uneven tightening of the bulk head holding screws and the screws of the front shock stay caused this prob. But after rectifying this and installing the top graphite plate, this slop has dropped tremendously to around 0.4mm...
Boner, am gonna try your suggestion of shimming both front and back of the top hinge pin by 0.2 mm. Cause while my driving skills are better left unsaid, i try to build the car the best i can...
Thanks once again Boner....
08-29-2004, 09:53 PM
foam tires
my v1r rear foam tires gets used up faster than my front, is this normal? my set-up is pratically standard
08-29-2004, 11:24 PM
Re: foam tires
Originally posted by thefuzzclub
my v1r rear foam tires gets used up faster than my front, is this normal? my set-up is pratically standard
my v1r rear foam tires gets used up faster than my front, is this normal? my set-up is pratically standard
08-30-2004, 12:02 AM
In the standard RR/EVO setup it is actually a 4mm split. If you run the 26 tooth front pulley it is a 2mm split. The V-One-R used no split as it had a 27 tooth pulley.
If you get the 26 tooth pulley from Kyosho it has a chart to tell you the splits for each pulley size and the characteristics of each size.
If you get the 26 tooth pulley from Kyosho it has a chart to tell you the splits for each pulley size and the characteristics of each size.
08-30-2004, 02:39 AM
Originally posted by B4
In the standard RR/EVO setup it is actually a 4mm split. If you run the 26 tooth front pulley it is a 2mm split. The V-One-R used no split as it had a 27 tooth pulley.
If you get the 26 tooth pulley from Kyosho it has a chart to tell you the splits for each pulley size and the characteristics of each size.
In the standard RR/EVO setup it is actually a 4mm split. If you run the 26 tooth front pulley it is a 2mm split. The V-One-R used no split as it had a 27 tooth pulley.
If you get the 26 tooth pulley from Kyosho it has a chart to tell you the splits for each pulley size and the characteristics of each size.
08-30-2004, 04:26 AM
Originally posted by Tom G
Absolutely correct. The fronts should be 4mm smaller than the rears. This equalizes the front and rear ratios and in most cases, a significant improvement in steering, handling and control can be seen, especially by those that didn't have it set-up that this way.
Absolutely correct. The fronts should be 4mm smaller than the rears. This equalizes the front and rear ratios and in most cases, a significant improvement in steering, handling and control can be seen, especially by those that didn't have it set-up that this way.
does overdrive mean to make the front wheels turn faster? so that both front and rear wheels would eventually turn at the same speed?