asd

sorry to hear you lost, oh well, there's always next time!
what engine where you running that gave you such a hard time tunning?(i'm curious)

patelladragger

I had difficult time with the collari 5 port in the RR. A lot of it had to do with the clutch. I must have rebuilt the centax 5 or 6 times trying to get it right. I bought the car used and it was missing some shims and I never did get it just right. My normally flawless RB's though in the Rs I couldn't get right either though. i'm vowing to spend the next 3 weeks doing intensive carb tuning studies.

Also - if anyone was/is thinking about getting the 3 racing swing shafts - don't. They bend very easy and I had one snap clean off at the joint. I've yet to break a kyosho part on this car in 6 months and two of these three racing parts failed on me in one day.

compaq888

yeah the carb tuning skills have to do a lot in a race, i been tuning carbs for 3 years i think i'm getting the hang on it, i just need to tune my low end on my motor and i'll smoke a lot of cars

dtm

This is an old 'Myth'...perpetuated in forums....both have 2 screws to adjust (because no one plays around with the mid screw on the NR carbs anyway)......low end, high end.....listen to the engine sound.....listen to the way the revs pick up and the way it drops...watch the temperature....see....no difference!!!!! If you can tune one...you can tune the other!!

compaq888

yeah that's true, dtm you ever play around with the mid screw i heard you can only turn it 1/16 of a turn everytime, and the guy told me not to touch it or he is going to kick my ass

VONEREFLEXR

is there any forum on v-one that is bigger than this

dtm

Yep...been there....seen it...done it..... can't remember noticing any major difference (if you balance out the low speed screw at the same time).....it was a long time ago!!!!!

dtm

Why? is 121 pages not enough to read!!!!?????/

racer rich

I was told my a fellow (I believe from Hong Kong) V-One R and V-One RR owner at the RC Car Action's forum "V-One R thread" that the V-One RR Floating Rear Body Mount is ineffective and harmful to performance when using a touring car body. He stated the Standard Body Mount from the V-One R is better and more suited for touring car bodies than the Floating Rear Body Mount. Here is a direct qoute from what he said:

"If you are running touring sedan shell, the rear and front suspension configuration of V-ONE-R are better than V-ONE-RR.

It is because the CG of touring sedan is higher than VDS shell, therefore, the V-ONE-R rear and front suspension allows for more options (i.e. more right up suspension angles) to adjust the hardness of the suspension to counter the movement of the taller sedan shells. I used to run touring sedan shells, therefore I have backward convert my RR to R and have found my lap time decreased by 1 sec!

The rear suspension of R has different mechanics than RR. In R, the body shell is mounting directly on the rear suspension holder plate, therefore the body downforce will push the rear end lower. This will stablise the car in high speed by lowering the rear roll centre. It can calm down the car in high speed.

However, in RR the downforce on the body shell does not change the rear ride height. Therefore, if you use sedan shell with RR rear suspension, the car will be a bit unstable in high speed. You need to adjust other settings to compensate."

________
Do any of you agree with him? Is his statement correct? I am not trying to doubt anyone, prove anyone wrong, or start a controversy. What he just said is completely the opposite from what I have been hearing about the Floating Rear Body Mount. Most people say it improves downforce and stability when using a sedan body on a very large and "fast" track. I am totally confused. I was already to order my V-One RR from Hong Kong and now I am having second thoughts about it. I use a Dodge Stratus sedan body and would like to get the maximum performance out of my car. I race on a very large, open, and fast track with huge straightaways. What body mount (Floating or Standard) would give better performance when using a sedan body?

This person seems very knowledgeable about the V-One R and V-One RR. He first told me about the 24-tooth pulley conversion and among other things. Its just like I said before this seems to be the complete opposite of what everyone is saying about the Floating Rear Body Mount. I am very confused, maybe you guys can spread some light on this issue and clear my mind.

Thanks in advance!

Manticore

It is always an advantage to let the body downforce goes directly to the hub/wheels. I dont know why this person have this problem with his V1R or RR.

dtm

Too much theory may not come good in practice...consider this..

Car whizzing down the straight....big down force...so according this guy roll centre is lowered.....OK...I can believe that, but hell I'm going down the straight...who cares about roll centres.

You now get to the end of the striaght...let go of the throttle (as most sane drivers do)...car slows down...roll centre pops back up!!! Hey sh!t....I want that low roll centre back for the bendy bit...where the hell is it?.....also..... my suspension is popping up and down like a YoYo with each throttle press...what is happening to the stablity of the car???

You see.....some people think too much in the theoretical world and never see the reality of things!!

Manticore

right on !!

patelladragger

you know DTM you rarely post something I disagree with but this is one. I have experienced OS engines are easier to tune because you don't have to be as precise on the needle settings. I've owned and broke-in 3 OS engines now, a .12 CVR, a .15CVR, and an .12 OS TR. All of them seemed to would start with just about any combination of needle settings and would still run if blubbering rich or frighteningly lean.

I see people tuning OS engines making big huge turns on the needles and their engines still run. The RB's I have the window of good tune is much smaller, precise, smaller increments are necc to get it right. The collari's are even tighter than the RB's- I tune the collari in MAX 5 minute intervals.

The major reason I had problem with my RB this weekend is I had a worn clutch and while trying to diagnose it another supposedly experienced tuner twisted the hell of my midrange needle telling me that was my problem. I never did get my engine back right after that, I tried to set it "flush" like it was, but flush is hard to determine. OS engine will run till the cows come home even if your setting is off.

AMGRacer

Did you read my post above about the QLD championships in Australia lat weekend? Kyosho V1RR GT kits almost STOCK with the chrysler 300M bodies came 1st and 3rd over a gaggle of Mugens, Serpents and NTC3. There were about 5 Kyosho in the top ten. Now these guys are good racers but I think that speaks for itself.

You really can over intellectualise things and to claim a sedan body has a higher CG which will significantly effect the suspenion settings is a little crazy.

AMGRacer

I tend to agree with dtm to a point. Patella is correct that the OS will run with needle settings which are way out but that is of little consequence. The engine will lack performance. dtm's point is that each engine follows the same principles when tuning them, use temps to ensure you aren't hurting it and tune buy ear and feel from there. Novarossi engines tend to be more senstive in the needles, ie dont go making huge turns on them. They are equally "easy" to get a good tune into them, I have experienced both types of engines as well. If the window of tune is big, and the biggest window is available in the OS, it still does not make it easier to get the "optimal" tune for best power, it makes you lazier with trying to find the "sweet spot".