TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Pops, thanks for the tip on the outdrives, the are worn pretty bad. I have been looking for the correct size on the droop screws.

I think I am going to try and build a set of CVD's for the car. Also get the rush outdrives.

popsracer

Actually the Droop screws are supplied in the kit. If you don't have them, the size is 4mm x 8-10mm. They are larger than the ones used on the 1/10th Nitros.

If you need the EXACT part #'s to do the CVD's, I have them.

Speed De;

Go to the Radio Control Zone Forum
in the Nitro On-road Forum, Super Nitro thread. There is a guy called 'Rookie Solara' that has installed an SG shaft engine into his Super. There are pictures and everything on how he did it.

If the track is loose with Decent Rubber Tires, Foams will not work better and possibly worse. It usually requires HIGH Traction on Rubber and then Foams will make you faster because they allow you to stay on the Throttle more in the corners. I have not found it ti be any other way.

Engines: I was exclusively using Picco .15's, but have recently switched to a Fantom .15 and am very impressed so far.

Popsracer

Speed De

Hi everyone,
today I ran my SN at the track and had a very strange problem. I let my engine warmed up I made some high speed laps. After the end of the straight we have 180 turn. When I go through it my engines seems to die. But after a pause of 3-4 seconds it starts working properly again. I'm not sure what's actually the problem. I suppose it has something to do with backpressure or something. Has anyone ever experienced something like that? By the way I'm running the 15 fe.

popsracer

Speed De;

Sound like you may have the engine leaned out too far. Open the High Speed needle (counter clockwise) 1/2 a turn (6 hours like a clock hand) and see if that helps. Go a little more at a time after that until it runs satisfactory. Use a drop of water or spit on the Cylinder Head to check temperature. It should take a minimum of 3-4 seconds for the water to sizzle off, any less and your too lean (hot).

good luck,

Speed De

Thanks for the info. I have my SN for about 3 months and have learned from my friends how to adjust the engine but trying to tune the engine doesn't seem to have an effect. It's very hard to tune the 15 fe right. What is the normal working temp of this engine?

popsracer

Speed De;

The 15Fe is a decent engine, but unfortunately it is impossible to get it to run very good with the standard single needle Carb. AND, because of the single needle, the proper high speed needle setting, will have the engine gurgling and sluggish at low speed and to keep the Head Temps down, you really cannot lean it out enough for best performance,

I always recommend using a RTR or Break-in type Fuel with a 14% or higher oil content for protection.
Keep the Head temps no higher than 280_F or you'll have a very short engine life. At 260-280_F, you should be able to get at least 3 gallons of fuel through the engine before it is worn out and have half way decent performance.
I've got one that is a 1-1/2 yrs old and still runs fine in an HPI Nitro-2. If you ever decide to replace your 15FE, I have the Fantom .15SE in MY Super and am very impressed with this engine's performance, for the price of $129 usd.

psycho

Hey guys, yeah sydewinder said it on the FW04. It definitely has less steering than the SuperNitro and it's heavier. I actually had to dremel the front knuckles a bit to get more steering and I'm running a front one-way. On foams, I don't think it is a problem, but rubber tires on a slick track the FW04 has no highspeed steering unless you use the brake regularly. Part of the problem is that the drivetrain is super efficient, so the car doesn't slow down when you let off. I run a little drag brake on my car.

sydewinder, was the traction roll at Camden or the Fremont track? That Fremont track is pretty nutty with the 1/8 layout. I don't have the stones to go flat out on that back straight! I blew out the left front corner of my MTX2 on that straight and wasn't even trying.

Spee Dee I'd run 35 shore all around. That's a pretty soft tire. If you are still searching for grip, I'd maybe go with 30 shore, but I think you should be able to get the car to stick with 35's. Another thing you can do is not bevel the edges of the tire as much and run with a larger tire diameter. This will give you more side bite. When it gets hot and you're traction rolling, cut the tires down and bevel the edges really well.

I have had no problems getting an sg shaft engine to fit in my FW04 without any modifications. I've run a Mugen MT12 engine with a standard style 3 shoe clutch and a Collari .12 with a centax clutch and was able to line the gears up without problem. I am running the Form 2 speed, but I don't think the Kyosho 2-speed would be any different.

psycho

Speed De

If you plan to race nitro, do yourself a favor and buy a temp gun. Other than your ears, there is no better nitro engine tuning tool you can buy. If you get the Minitemp one, don't bother with the laser pointer model. You will put the temp gun over the heatsink and take the reading from the glow plug and won't need the laser pointer to find that. I don't race with that engine, but I'd keep it under 190 degrees. The competition race engines run hotter, so you'll usually be around 220 degrees on those. If you get a temp gun, you can also use it to measure track temperature and will know when you need to change tires to suit the track temp. It's money well spent, imo.

If you can't keep your engine running cool enough with the carb adjustment, make sure you don't have any gunk blocking up the fuel system and check your pressure system. In a nitro car, the pressure from the exhaust system pushes the fuel through the line into the carb. If you have a pressure leak, the engine will run lean. If the fuel line or carb is blocked, the engine will run lean. Check all that stuff too. If your tank has a fuel filter in it, spray some nitro blast cleaning spray around the stone filter and make sure the fuel can go through it freely. Good luck!

popsracer

There's just NO WAY the 15FE is going to run at 190_F, no way. I've found that all of the Sport Engines with Humongous ports in the sleeve run hot, 15FE, TRX15, etc. Even a better cooling head does not seem to lower the temps drasticly (maybe 20_F). A better Carb helps in the performance dept, but you still have the unusually high temps.

I want to add that everything I've read about engines recommends 220_F as a minimum to allow the metals to expand properly. Anything less is supposed to cause premature wear.

Number 11

I agree with you there Popracer, my FE I had last year never ran below 220. It ran in the 230 range sometimes hotter when the weather got warmer and I never had problems with it. I can't even imagine how you would get this engine to run at 190 unless it is 30 degrees outside.

Sydewynder

The traction roll happened at Camden.

The probelm with the Fremont track is the far right corner of of the back straight dips and you lose your car.

Sydewynder

I;m using a Novarossi turbo big block. Ofna sells a shim/extension kit that makes it easier to line up the 2 speed with an SG crank.

Lower shore (softer) suppose to give you more traction on low bite surfaces. Hard to tell how low is your traction but I would try 40frt 35 rear to start.

popsracer

Guys;

There is a new Parking Lot track opening up here next weekend and the surface is Brand new Asphalt so hopefully the traction will be good enough for the Super. If not, I'm thinking of running the Car in Sportsman against the 1/10ths at my local Permanent On-Road track. With the new Foams that I just ordered (thanks SydeWynder) and my new Fantom .15, I should be able to do some serious damage.

TimPotter

iTrader: (15)

Layin the Super smackdown

PRO RS4

Hey guy's


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http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...905#post308905