Originally Posted by stefan

The more I read from and about Hudy, the less I like him.

"The engine mounts on some of the Novarossi engines may not fit perfectly on the NT1 engine mounts"

No Idiot, your f.cking engine mounts do not fit the Nova engines, simple as that. :rolleyes:

But how could a world reknown top engineer with the most brilliant ideas ever, make a simple mistake like that.

So, you XRay deciples rather Dremel away on your engines.... :nod:

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

Oh man, I feel for you. To me, not having a permanent track for on-road is just a sin. :lol:

Hey! Its an opportunity, form a club, do one up, call it KB-Raceway! :nod:

Originally Posted by stefan

No Idiot, your f.cking engine mounts do not fit the Nova engines, simple as that. :rolleyes:

Originally Posted by SlamMan

I'm using the white shoe that came with the kit, and I set the gap with my caliper.

Originally Posted by mtveten

To be fair the NT1's engine mounts fit current and 2 generations previous Nova blocks at its release. I haven't seen a 353 but I know the plus, LS & LL are fit fine.

Mark

Originally Posted by mtveten

To be fair the NT1's engine mounts fit current and 2 generations previous Nova blocks at its release. I haven't seen a 353 but I know the plus, LS & LL are fit fine.

Mark

Originally Posted by SlamMan

I need some help with the centax clutch. This is my first gas car so... I'm running the OS TZ 12

I finally got to run the car in an empty parking lot today. I ended up loosening the centax clutch all the way out to get it to engage? I didn't try tightening it back up after which so I'm not sure if it's relatively light or stiff. I certainly can't go any lighter though. :(

I'm under the impression this isn't normal. How much did you guys have to adjust the clutch from the original settings? Should I change something? would changing the clutch gap help?

One thing that struck me as odd was that I didn't have to use a single shim to achieve the proper flywheel gap, clutch gap, and clutch bell end play as according to the instruction manual. The motor was dead on to the measurments from the book without any shimming. :confused:

Originally Posted by kitracer

Try this tool to mea clutch gap.
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=11951
very consistence reading so when you make any changes, you have a standard value all time.

I suggest stay with 0.7 clutch gap. I used serpent hard long spring http://www.serpent.com/product/909520
the spring tension depends on track condition. I start with 1.5mm

I did not use any shim between the engine and the cone.

hope this help

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

RMD, I uploaded a DVD version to Veoh.com but it didn't turn out so good :rolleyes:

http://www.veoh.com/videos/v507784APKJwqsR

Only the slow moving or relatively stationary scenes looks good.

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

RMD, I uploaded a DVD version to Veoh.com but it didn't turn out so good :rolleyes:

http://www.veoh.com/videos/v507784APKJwqsR

Only the slow moving or relatively stationary scenes looks good.

Originally Posted by ianhobbies

sow, try using www.revver.com nice quality on that site.. your movie will be downloadable once it is uploaded.. and its in quicktime format.. so easy viewing for ipod video users out there.

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

You're right! Does the version you created on your computer look better than the one that gets downloaded or does it look the same? Is your original also 160MB? How are you encoding it? What is the resolution?