Originally Posted by LORD SHADO

x ray lack the guts to show the competion again. what car was first?

Originally Posted by mtveten

The idea is to balance the car's left/right weight distribution to provide more symmetrical handling. I prefer to start with the ballast as close to the front/rear centerline since that yields the least impact on the car front/rear bias.

The best way to balance the car would be to use 4 scales with each wheel centered over 1 scale. With the car on the scales you would then add weight to the heavy side to make the left & right side of each end perfectly match while maintaining the front/rear weight differential.

Although scales are needed to make perfect adjustments I have found the simple balance pins to be much faster, easier and in practice just as good; providing you can place your ballast close to the front/rear center line.

With a Nitro car it is important to check balance both with dry and full tanks since most cars don't have their fuel load perfectly centered. After you figure the ballast required for both dry and full you should split the difference giving you the closest possible balance throughout each stint.


Mark

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

QUOTE :-

I sneaked out and test drove the NT1 the other day. The track was full of cut grass and it had been raining for 2 days straight before the test day so traction was medium-to-low. I used a Protoform Mazda 6 body, stock set-up and tested with two a set of tyres, an ATS set and a Speedmind set of foam tyres. The ATS was somehow exhibiting a lack of cornering on exit but the Speedmind was much better. The car has tremendous turn-in and is very stable. Considering the traction available, the car was on rails.

Acceleration was phenomenal, probably because of the shortish ratio of the stock gearing but more likely because of the new clutch and the efficient design built into the NT1 (small diffs, smooth spurs and pinions meshing, loose drive-train). The two-speed changed smoothly and quietly, beautiful. Ash and I found that the front small pulley was clicking loose with a lot of play after 3 tanks, testament to the fact the roll-pin in composite slot way of mounting gears is a weak one. Other than that I really like the handling of the car out of the box and I have to say, the NT1 has got tremendous winning potential.

Enough blah blah, click on the picture on the left (at 3hobby.net) to go download the video and many thanks to Ash Bond for doing the video shooting.

Originally Posted by SlamMan

I need some help with the centax clutch. This is my first gas car so... I'm running the OS TZ 12

I finally got to run the car in an empty parking lot today. I ended up loosening the centax clutch all the way out to get it to engage? I didn't try tightening it back up after which so I'm not sure if it's relatively light or stiff. I certainly can't go any lighter though. :(

I'm under the impression this isn't normal. How much did you guys have to adjust the clutch from the original settings? Should I change something? would changing the clutch gap help?

One thing that struck me as odd was that I didn't have to use a single shim to achieve the proper flywheel gap, clutch gap, and clutch bell end play as according to the instruction manual. The motor was dead on to the measurments from the book without any shimming. :confused:

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

Novarossi Engine Mounting Tech Tip:
http://forum.teamxray.com/viewtopic.php?p=51026#51026

If you own a Novarossi based engine, make sure you read this one. :eek: :eek: :nod:

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

"I sneaked out..." - that's funny. You make it sound as if you weren't suppose to be at the track.

Originally Posted by eg

Excellent work... I appreciate the fact that you really go out of your way to give an unbiased and full evaluation of a product. I just wanted to say, keep up the good work and thanks. What was your engine/pipe combo?

Originally Posted by stefan

The more I read from and about Hudy, the less I like him.

"The engine mounts on some of the Novarossi engines may not fit perfectly on the NT1 engine mounts"

No Idiot, your f.cking engine mounts do not fit the Nova engines, simple as that. :rolleyes:

But how could a world reknown top engineer with the most brilliant ideas ever, make a simple mistake like that.

So, you XRay deciples rather Dremel away on your engines.... :nod:

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

I wasn't, it was on Wednesday ... :sneaky:

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

maybe you can't see it clearly in the download version of the video but in the original video you can see some damp patches as well as tiny blades of cut grass at every corner.

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

Like I said, the only thing I didn't like in the kit setup is that it sort of drifts out on corner exit. This can easily be fixed with a setup change or two.

Originally Posted by Sow&Steady

The other are the pulleys, now rocking back and forth, especially the front middle one and I've only run 3 tanks in the car. Definitely needs a hop-up to the aluminum ones.

Originally Posted by rmdhawaii

:lol: If we had a permanent track, I'd be sneaking out all the time.

Originally Posted by _cyclops_

I've had some trouble with the clutch too, you should be carefull when you set the Clutch gap. How did you do that? Also, i'm using a gap of 0.55mm in stead of the 0.7mm which is in the manual... just to make the clutch easier.
If you have been running the car with a bad setting, and you are using the white clutch shoe (don't know which one is in the kit). Then check the clutch gap again because the white shoe wears pretty fast when the clutch isn't adjusted properly. This gives a bigger clutch gap!