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Old 10-17-2013, 11:10 PM   #7036
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[QUOTE=SOLOARTIST 702;12639928]
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Originally Posted by Evo 13 View Post
i will answer that the xray 2013 is very durable i have personally tested it at the last winternats after the entire event no parts needed to be changed
Me being the offical durability checker, I must say this car is awesome!!
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Old 10-18-2013, 05:19 AM   #7037
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Hey there,

Are there any gear stripping issues with the '13NT1 or anything else? Is it a truly solid car that can handle mod power?
I switched to xray this summer and did not strip any gears.The 13NT1 is awesome,I am glad I made the switch!
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Old 10-18-2013, 06:55 PM   #7038
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What size drill bit should I use to drill a hole in the shock cap?
I have a set with the holes and an older set without and want the hole, just seems easier to build and like no rebound
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:50 PM   #7039
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I appreciate all the feedback. You guys seem like very satisfied NT1 owners. Think I'm gonna count myself amongst you!
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:36 AM   #7040
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Is there anything prettier than a NT1?
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:29 AM   #7041
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Is there anything prettier than a NT1?
Bloody hell Michael, I thought you were racing the Snake
Or is that Johnny's super fast beast lol
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Old 10-19-2013, 02:50 AM   #7042
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Originally Posted by Jazza View Post
Bloody hell Michael, I thought you were racing the Snake
Or is that Johnny's super fast beast lol
Still got the snake, but the Xray has been flavour of the month lately....see you at Moorebank tomorrow
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Old 10-19-2013, 04:17 AM   #7043
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Originally Posted by Michael_T View Post
Still got the snake, but the Xray has been flavour of the month lately....see you at Moorebank tomorrow
Ok mate cool will do, and they are a very nice car also the NT1

Cheers Daz
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Old 10-19-2013, 09:48 AM   #7044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I'm sure plenty of ppl do, but on the tracks I alternate racing on the blade is the right option.
What is the better option for clutch spring?
I was using a hard xray ultra stable spring and liked it but felt like it was never giving me the bottom end out of my murnan RBM3 I've been looking for.
My last race I showed up late and still had to put my motor in and set it up, including the clutch, so I asked a guy that knows exactly how to get hat I was looking for.
He gave me the numbers and to use a the med spring (xray) and whoa the car was a rocket. From now on its what I'll be using.
Does anyone have an opinion for why the med spring was better?
Started the season with hard spring and yellow shoe on the high dynamic and changed to med spring with red shoe in the high dynamic

Hey....I am a new racer with a 2012 pro ed kit...It came with the yellow High dynamic shoe and the 10 cup washer set instead of the regular med spring...I have been using it without any problems so far or any adjustment issues but should I switch over to the Med spring ?....
tks...
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:53 AM   #7045
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Originally Posted by Yb2fast View Post
Hey....I am a new racer with a 2012 pro ed kit...It came with the yellow High dynamic shoe and the 10 cup washer set instead of the regular med spring...I have been using it without any problems so far or any adjustment issues but should I switch over to the Med spring ?....
tks...
Not sure which is better, and never had as much power from my car as I did a few weeks ago with the med spring and red shoe.
Most people use the yellow and I did as well.
I'm going to stick with the setup I have now (red shoe/med spring) since I will pick hp over speed any day, especially on the tracks I race on.
I'm always told harder springs are better but like I said, my car was exactly the way I like it (hp wise) and faster then ever with the med/red shoe.
.7 gap med spring, red shoe and very little spring tension is how the guy set it and my car crazy fast especially off the line.
The guy that set it is a team driver (xray) and I wouldn't second guess his knowledge, so I went with it and it was perfect
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Old 10-19-2013, 12:24 PM   #7046
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Originally Posted by Michael_T View Post
Is there anything prettier than a NT1?
Man, She just looks like a Champion!
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:24 AM   #7047
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yb2fast View Post
Hey....I am a new racer with a 2012 pro ed kit...It came with the yellow High dynamic shoe and the 10 cup washer set instead of the regular med spring...I have been using it without any problems so far or any adjustment issues but should I switch over to the Med spring ?....
tks...
I like the washers. Set the nut tension at 0.3 to 0.4 and you will be good, but put on some thread lock cause with the washers it will tend to move to 0.0 if you don't.

Yellow shoe is my favorite in low and high traction. I find the washers and yellow to be very linear, responsive and consistent.
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:56 AM   #7048
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Help with loose rear traction issue on outdoor asphalt track with low traction please. This is about NT1 2012.
So everything is basically default setup with the progressive springs that came with kit.
Issue: The car is not drivable. It looses traction entry and exit of corners all the time unless I go slow. It's just not loosing traction a bit like any situation but it spins if I turn the wheels more than 50%. I still can manage the car somewhat with a bit of bumping here and there but it makes the laptime real bad. Here are what I've already tried.
1. I lowered the roll center in the rear due to the oversteering but didn't help.
2. Removal of rear antiroll bar didn't help either
3. Softer tires(35/37 to 32/35) made no change.
4. tried different cambers but none succeded.
5. Rebuilt shocks thinking they might have leaked but same.
6. Tried light red and light purple springs but no different.
7. I lowered dual rate on steering to 75%. didn't matter..

So it's on and off power oversteer... I need help because I'm running out of options and idea...
Clutch spring's the usual medium, gap is usual at 0.7mm, shoe is white. Front roll center is 2nd from the lowest. The car was whole lot better earlier this year, took some time off due to my baby and came back with this sliding car..
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:09 AM   #7049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuvet75 View Post
Help with loose rear traction issue on outdoor asphalt track with low traction please. This is about NT1 2012.
So everything is basically default setup with the progressive springs that came with kit.
Issue: The car is not drivable. It looses traction entry and exit of corners all the time unless I go slow. It's just not loosing traction a bit like any situation but it spins if I turn the wheels more than 50%. I still can manage the car somewhat with a bit of bumping here and there but it makes the laptime real bad. Here are what I've already tried.
1. I lowered the roll center in the rear due to the oversteering but didn't help.
2. Removal of rear antiroll bar didn't help either
3. Softer tires(35/37 to 32/35) made no change.
4. tried different cambers but none succeded.
5. Rebuilt shocks thinking they might have leaked but same.
6. Tried light red and light purple springs but no different.
7. I lowered dual rate on steering to 75%. didn't matter..

So it's on and off power oversteer... I need help because I'm running out of options and idea...
Clutch spring's the usual medium, gap is usual at 0.7mm, shoe is white. Front roll center is 2nd from the lowest. The car was whole lot better earlier this year, took some time off due to my baby and came back with this sliding car..
1. With factory car setup, increase rear toe in, try 3 degree and 4 degree.
2. Make sure suspension arms are moving up and down freely.
3. Make sure tires are fresh ...... Always use fresh tires before playing or racing. Otherwise you will encounter poor car handling despite of already using factory setup.
4. Reduce End Point Adjustment in your radio transmitter.
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Old 10-21-2013, 02:20 AM   #7050
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Snuvet75,

5. Increase trackwidth 199mm front, 200mm rear.

I am using Kawahara, Ulti, and Enneti tires : 35 front and 40 rear. The tires usage are perfect all the way to 30 minutes main. Handling is also nice too, my car can take corner inside the curbs.
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