Thank you rx7....
I know its not an update ... but i need to be ready for every race day, so i need some spares, but not to downgrade my gear!
Maybe ill go with the HUDY steel ones, but i dont know yet...

Actually I need also a bearing set for drivetrain, but in set of tens.. maybe ill stick with TKO!!

[QUOTE=rx7ttlm;9788198]Honestly the 2010 car was very quick if that is the car you have currently you could stick with that and still be quick(which car do you have currently?). The biggest difference between the wc and the 2011 is the clutch. Between the wc clutch and the light weight t3 composite gears they will net you the biggest performance difference. My option part list is basically the WC car without the aluminum front swaybar mounts. Depending on the track and the grip level I play around with al radio tray supports, graphite or plastic battery tray and cut and uncut topdecks. Overall it's nice to have all the light weight bits, but you really have to ask yourself if your using all of the potential of the base car. I have seen a lot of people that buy Ti screws and all the options yet would likely benefit from buying a gallon of fuel, a couple boxes of tires and a lot of practice/ testing more than all the new fancy parts. But if your driving is there then grabbing the wc kit wouldn't be a bad idea. Run that chassis till it's worn out or bent, then switch to the 2011 chassis. It is nice to have the ballast at chassis level but that comes with a bit of a flex trade off.



thanks for the reply but at the moment i have no car as i'm transition but looking at the mtx-5 and the nt1 as the two possibles

Tough call Both very good cars, the Mugen is a very capable car they seem to have resolved the gear stripping issue they had with the last car. But the xray is proven both quick and durable, if I were to have to choose it would be a tough choice. But since you can get the NT1 wc for less than the mugen I would probably grab the NT1 since at that price point it's an amazing value for all the parts it comes with out of the box, add t3 gear diff composite gears and you have a worlds level kit :) . Also there are a lot of xray drivers to support you (unless there are mugen drivers in your area (team) ). Also consider parts support, nation wide (assuming your in the USA) both companies support their cars with decent parts supply and the parts can be ordered from their usa distributors from your LHS (they usually have to open an account).

Well the hudy shafts are great, when properly lubed they last a long time. The drive pins can be replaced and that pays for itself in a season if you maintain your nitro car like I do. (car comes apart after every race, new belts after qualifying, new clutch bearings etc.)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...rce=google_ext

What bearings for clutch do you use??
Gimme dimensions... 5x10x4 is that right??

I am toying with ceramics etc, but I have a bit of a different method. Xray steel bearings work great. I have been using Acer Racing bearings, clean them with solvent, then reoil with their sin lube. But I change them every hour, it's far more frustrating having your car stall every time it touches the ground in a pit stop or if you spin compared to throwing away a couple dollars in bearings every hour, or you can save them for practice later. But race days I show up with fresh bearings and change them before the main(mains longer than 30 min), if your main is 20 min you can easily / safely run 2 races on them in almost all conditions. Dusty / dirty tracks change them more often. But if you remove the clutch bell and the crank shaft has grey marks where the bearing was (rotational marks) your bearings are in need of changing. Remember the clutch bearings are the most stressed bearing in your car (behind engine bearings, but those are properly sized for the load they see). There is one 5x8 bearing, and one 5x10 bearing in each clutch. I typically get them in lots of 20 or so and clean them all and lube them. Put them in the tubes they came in so they are ready for race day. Make sure you degrease the bearings and lightly lube, the grease gets warm slings out onto the clutch and can make the clutch slip.

Cheers

You are my man rx7...
Great infos, thank you a lot!!!! Very usefull...
Ill do my best for my car...I love it!!!:):)

have decided to go with the mtx-5 as the only reason is that the importer in australia is here in close to me.the nt1 is a great car just fell that they seem to tinker to much with what is a proven car,i know that without development no brand can go forward but it just seems like xray do more in this area for my budget.no offence inteaded to those running this brand

First day with NT1
 

Today was my first day driving the NT1. I was very impress with the way it handle. The car was smooth and stable and allow me to drive it more aggressive. It stayed planted the whole time and I was on a low bite track. I also tap the rail a few times and it still handle great. It had more steering then I thought and I was able to get in the throttle before I exit the corners. Also it had a ton of corner speed and it was a basic setup on the car. I fought with my last car with setup but from what I hear this car doesn't need a lot of changes from track to track only time will tell. Great car and look forward to running it this season.

ok im thinking of getting one of these with a novarossi motor what do i need to take care on when buiding and what is needed out of the box

Stock xray silver springs that comes with NT1 in box.
 

Could any one tell me the silver springs that came with the car in the kit, where i can find there? There are compare to the violete , dark blue?

they never get used i would just toss them away

go to xray website & look for the we- spec sheet but you actually don't need much if anything

see you later good luck

rx7,

How do you degrease your bearings? What bearings do you use for the car and what do you use for the clutch? I read you have used a few different brands, what is your thoughts on them and which ones do you recommend? Thanks in advance.

Ronnie

Some of the 1 dollar bearings are ok, I haven't really done endurance testing with clutch bearings since I throw them out well before they fail. But acer is good, avid is good, xray bearings are good. Anything except durango bearings lol. But I have had as high as 3 hours on the xray bearings and they lived (3 hour enduro)

To prep the bearings I take an exacto knife and remove the bearing shield, then take a can of motor cleaner (aerosol solvent) and clean the grease out of the bearings. Add a drop of oil, reassemble and put back in the parts box. Be careful with the shield retainers, they like to fly.