It does to a point. Because of the extra camber gain associated with increased caster, you may find that the contact patch of the front outside tire will be too small and the front end will push even more as your wheels get closer to full lock. It really depends on your overall setup, rim flex and how much the chassis rolls.

The setup that I've been developing gains its on-power steering through keeping the rear end of the car slightly higher than the front with full power being applied. If the ride height, droop, spring or anti-roll bar settings are even slightly different than what I've posted, the on-power steering will go away quickly. In order to maintain the higher rear ride height I found that the 10lb stiffer rear springs and stiff rear anti-roll bar are needed on the NT1 as it is rear heavy.

However, I was very surprised that the car did not oversteer with the 38lb red springs and 2.6mm bar. :nod: I did have to keep the rear roll center low on the arm and camber link settings to keep it in check though. To me this gave a very predictable rear end rotation off-power and through the middle of the corner. Then once the power is applied, the weight over the front end allows the front wheels to dictate where the car goes and how quickly it can change the line if trying to pass coming out of a corner. The rear actually straightens up quickly going on-power and gives me more confidence to go full throttle earlier.

Another surprise was how the car handled when the rear tires wore down quicker and the rear ride height lessened. I believe that where the ride height change decreases steering, the rear tires make up for it in more rotation due to their smaller diameter. Hence, the car steers the same or slightly more as the rear tires wear down more than the fronts.

I started working on this type of base setup with my T2 (electric) last year while trying to make the steering instantly responsive AND yet smooth when going from straight to full lock on entry and exit. In order to do this, I had to keep the camber change minimal and hence the reduction in caster. I actually ran 0d caster on the T2 with a stiff rear setup. :eek: :D

NOTE: This setup is NOT the norm as mine never are though... :D

TeamGP
 

thanks for your reply,starts to make sense now, Agree the NT! is rear heavy and planted, why did u go to 30,000 rear diff oil, what differences did you find this made for you?? PS: thanks for all your time

I forgot to add that the 30k rear diff oil is again a necessity due to the overall setup. It allows the rear end to rotate much better when entering the corners and also keeps it very stable on exit when running less than 1d of rear toe-in.

No problem at all answering your questions. That is my prime duty for XRAY.

Unfortunately my driving skills aren't good enough to be a true team driver. So I make up for it in trying silly stuff, blowing hot air in the forums and sometimes writing a sentence or two of documentation. :D

TeamGP: I'm very curious to try your setup and see how it handles on a high speed sweeping track. The .25rear tow gets me curious as to how it keeps the rear planted without a lot of tire wear though. If you stay on throttle, I can see that it would keep the rear under the car with the front being pulled around(sort of), but then the 30,000 rear diff to gain more stability. I'll try it on my backup car and let you know what I think next Sunday.

Barry Baker setup
 

hi guys could someone please pm me with barry`s set up as i can not seem to down load it from x ray, thanks in advance

This one?
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=106&setup=nt1

Hmm

Remember that I drive like an electric racer...smooth on the throttle. :D

I'm interested to know what you think though. I only know of one other driver that has tried it so far (although a previous version). :)

You may be limited on downloading the PDF if you have a personal firewall, or a hardware firewall. You could try printing out the web page of the setup sheet though. Let me know if you still can't get a copy and I'll email the PDF to you. :)

servo's
 

what servo's are you guys using on ur nt1?
would the futaba s9550 low profile servo be enough on the steering? or should i be looking at somthing like the s9451 or s9350? thanks in advanced.

, the 9550 would work, but the 9451 for steering is a better choice.

Me and a freind have had 9550 in nitro cars and both had several failures seems they dont like the vibrations
Had them in electric cars no problems
But the 9541 is a good reliable servo
Personaly I like the sanwa VB or VX

I use them in my electric cars just wanted to know how they would do in nitro.

Today is a good day, I have 2 hours time to test drive NT1 ( after two weeks of waiting a free time ).

My mechanic loosen the centax clutch ( around 0.8mm with a silver mugen super hard spring )

My mechanic loosen the 2speed clutch ...... He must set it three times to get the correct shifting point.

And finallly, vroom...... vrooomm...... for 4 tanks.

Here is my impression driving NT1 ( using basic setup with original parts ) :

The car is very nice to drive...... very smooth drivetrain, acceleration is awesome, can brake like a real man, noticeably understeering on power ( cannot push too hot while exiting S corners ), car turn very quick at corner entry with slight oversteering ( I think it's dirty track issue ).

It is my first time to have a new car that didn't scracth or even kiss the side wall. No scratches at all !!! ..... Unlike my previous cars: MTX3, MTX4, MRX4R, they must kiss the side wall couple of times during their maiden run. :lol: :lol:

I think I'm ready for the big event : DTM race on 4th and 5th of August.

aahhhh...... a good happy day today.

yeah that setup sheet is odd, the download pdf link is broken as well. it points to a xb8 link, but if you change it to the link below you can get the actual pdf.

http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=106&setup=nt1

What starter boxes are you guys using for your NT1's? I'm looking for some recommendations.

Most of the small starter boxes work well, Serpent. Mugen, the team Magic one. They are all light and compact. Personaly, I am using the Mugen one because I had it left over from when I was running an MTX4.

the mugen one is a very nice starter box

super hard mugen?:sneaky:i l be joinin you there..mind sharing bit of set up tips..;)

Hey, good on you man !!! :nod:

I'm using basic kit setup except :

1. longer screws ...... I use 2mm longer screws everywhere that's fit.
2. shock absorbers + springs ...... I use Mugen MTX4 shock absorbers ( 2 holes front, 1 hole rear ) + mugen's light blue springs ( 1.7 )
3. alluminium wheel hex + 0.75 all around
4. mugen super hard spring (silver) for centax clutch, set to 0.8mm tightness
( you don't have to copy mine, especially #1 .... it makes my car stiff and heavy ).

BTW, xray spare parts are really expensive compare to mugen :flaming: ..... I have calculate the cost of accumulating spare parts all together exceed the price of new car, so I bought 2 kits, 1 for car, 1 for spare parts.

The car itself is very nice to drive : the drive train is super smooth, braking is awesome ( no kidding ), 2 speed engangement is like real sport cars, and NT1 is totally a handsome car. I'm glad to own it.

This week I have big race, I'm going to test NT1 for that.

Anybody have/know of a good parking lot track setup? The track surface is fairly smooth and sprayed with sugar water. I've never raced on anything else so I don't know how it compares in traction to others. Its of decent size with the fast guys doing 20 second laps.

thanks in advance....

if you look up espos setup at the mentor race his car was really good
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=111&setup=nt1

Thanks. Looks good to me. I'm learning setup, but it can be a bit complicated sometimes. I need more track time to sort all this stuff out.:nod:

wow!!!heavy prep down there dtm cup..;)to calculate spareparts litdat ofcoz expenxive bro..but why too many parts do you need for this nt1?your mugen ofcoz cheaper part coz after a race,arms specially getting loose here and there,but not for nt1..even the gearing..:nod:i think the most common major parts you should keep is just centax spring,clutch shoe,some spurs,pulleys and belts,the rest few maybe arms and knuckle which still i feel durable enuff..:)but goin big race like dtm,2kits spare would be a very TQ advantage...:D:D:D

c u der..:nod:

Do you have the spring set? You might want to start with the Violet and Light Purple spring sets and play around with those. The Multi-diff is killer too.

I´m driving the Kopropo 2413 on throttle and steering. Works great! And you also loose about 20g compared to standard servos.

Hey guys. Went for some Testing on the weekend, i found something very interesting!! I was on a fairly frippy technical track, running 40 Rears ad 38 Fronts. I had Light Purple rear springs (35 Pound), Purple Front springs (30 Pound) I had heaps of off-power steering, heaps of rear end grip but was just lacking some on power steering (like a lot of us). At that stage i was running a 26 tooth side pulley. Went to a 26 tooth, went back out and the car totally transformed itself! Kept its awesome steering off power and just added heaps of steering on-power. In the end i actually ended up adding some front droop to give it a bit more rear-end grip on-power, after that the car was a weapon. Hope this helps ;)

Ryan Maker

hi ryan...you were running a 26 and went to a 26?..

I'm sure he meant '...to a 25...'. ;)

I had the same experience when switching from a 26t as well. :nod:

Very nice idea!

I've been looking to get the spring set. Any suggestions on where to buy it? I haven't been able to find it in stock. I like the idea of the Multi-diff too, but I'm a poor student for two more semesters so its one or the other.....:cry:

Me too !

Yeh sorry guys, i actually switched from a 25 tooth to a 26 tooth. I figured this allowed the front wheels to turn faster giving them more grip, This is the first time i havn't ran overdrive, on my Touring Cars i have always ran overdrive.....well the cars awesome now so mabye some try it someday, hey it worked for me!

Regards, Ryan

Now thats interesting. My on track experience was opposite. However, your description makes sense. I'll have to try the 26t again.

If I remember correctly the 25t gives a 1.04:1 front overdrive and the 26t is 1:1. I'm trying to figure this all out though.

Me too,Thats all I run now..is the 26t pulley.Car is amazing:nod:

What shore tires f/r, any split, and what type of track surface are you guys running on? This past weekend I put the 26t on, but engine problems kept me from being able to focus on chassis setup. As a rookie, I would love to not have to deal with tire splits.:nod:

Using the 26t pulley makes the front tires spin slower than with the 25t, so with the 26 pully the rear tires are actually spinning faster than the fronts, (more over drive) than with the 25t, which is why with the 25t you run a 2mm difference in tire diameter and with the 26 your supposed to run a 1.5mm difference. So with the 26t you might have felt more turn in and more corner exit depending on your driving style :o;)

I will be a rookie at gas next season...What are tire splits? Is it when you run a different shore tire front and rear?

It's when you run a different size tire in the rear than the front. So when someone says 2mm split there running there tire's in the rear 2mm bigger in diameter than the front.;)