Just to add to this, split also pertains to overdrive, underdrive and dealing with uneven tire wear between front and rear tires.

hey guys, I'm gonna upgrade my mtx4 ... however, tossing up between the mtx4-r and the nt1.... can anyone help with my decision?

cheers

What do you expect to gain from upgrading your car?

A lot of times, it's really just about finding the right setup with your existing car. The 4R isn't that much different from the 4. If you think you've exhausted all your setup options with the 4, then maybe you should try a different car. If not, you may want to try different setups first. The ability to identify and correct setup deficiencies plays a big role in your success with any particular car.

On a personal level, one car may suit your setup and driving skills more than another. Unfortunately, you won't know that until you buy the other car. :sneaky:

Hope this helps...

HT Westminster has some springs in stock. Try the 26 tooth side pulley to run 1:1 to take that out of the equation for a while. What tires are you running?

Right now I'm running 38f 40r Nitro Shoes. I need to check HT's stock. I didn't even look this past weekend...

Yeh that 25 tooth would make it spin faster, It makes the car heaps better so thats all that matters!!
About the NT1 or MTX 4R. It really depends what best parts access you have. They are both awesome cars, i have only ever driven a VoneRRR and an NT1 so i cant tell you how i think it feels compard to the MTX 4R. But i think it is smoother and easier to drive than the VoneRRR. Good Luck...

Yeah true, maybe i'm better off keeping what i've got and wait til an mtx-5 comes out. Just after something "new" , you know new cars always handle better:D nice new bearings etc :)...

Maybe just buy a new MTX4-R....

There is 1 more advantage if you stay with 1 brand, spare parts...
A lot of them you can use on your new car as well......

Besides the 4mm chassis, multidiff and different springs, what other options would you guys recommend or have tried on the NT1?

For most of these options it just matters where your racing, they don't neccesarilly(spelling) make the car better, they are just different tuning options to further dial your car with. Other than what you've mentioned I'd invest in a rear adjustable sway bar, which I'm running now and also front cvd's, which I'm also running. Although I havn't had any issues with the stock ones, aluminum hexes are a plus too. ;)

D said it all... :nod:

So yesterday I ordered an NT1, 4mm chassis and the multidiff and they're on their way.

Now I'm shopping for an engine\muffler combo. I'm leaning on going with the Max Power SL3 Combo, but now I see there is a Max Power XL3 and Max Power 312X on their site (www.rcmaxpower.com). And I notice the Max Power engines are on the higher end of the price spectrum. Remember, I'm a noob to gas racing so I have no idea about engines. What other engine\muffler combo's out there offer the same performance and quality as the Max Power engines at a lower price? I've been looking at Ninja's and Mega's as well.

As a noob I started out with the OS TZ 12 with a Skyline VR12 Plus pipe. This is what was recommended to me as the TZ is super reliable and super easy to tune.

My must have upgrades were the front CVDs, hard and wide bumper, spring kit and Multi-diff.

Hmm..

NT1 and front cvd, that´s all what you need :D

Can someone please direct me on which battery pack lowers the the tank, some people say AAA packs, and if its AAA what configuration, I can’t seem to find any AAA packs, I was also looking at the muchmore lipo pack it says you can charge it with any charger which is good because I don’t have a lipo charger and its a allot lighter, thanks in advanced.

http://www.vxrracing.com/images/prod...211300_big.jpg

Size : 83 x 28 x 13mm <---- only 13mm height !!
Weight : 61 grams
Capacity : 1300MaH lipo batts

BTW, need this.... to step down the voltage from 7.4V to 6V.

http://www.vxrracing.com/images/prod...R_5500_big.jpg

I think we need to answer Apex question with a "What size Track is it??"

Our home track has a 250ft straightaway, with the best traction on the EAST Coast!! So a motor that is able to get down the straight and has all around power is what should be recommended.

Novarossi Plus 12 for me, Modded by Murnan is what im running, and i can make run time!!! With a track this size, most reach the 4:30 mark for a splash and go!!!

Apex, i very pleased with my motor, but like you mentioned, it is costly... you need to just come out and see whats up!!!

:D

Anything by Murnan will be FAST! ;)

However, I have to recommend the SL3/2602 combo. You can't go wrong with it. :nod:

i agree with team gp i use this combo on a track that has a 220 ft straight and i have no problem making 5 min. and its very fast

Can somebody help me quick.....

Here is my problem today :

After completing heats today, my car come back to pit with very high engine rpm....... My mechanic pick up the car and I can see the wheels are still turning.

What should I do ?? I'm not very expert in engine tuning ....... I'm lack of self confidence at the moment.

Tommorow I have the last Heat and then Final.

Dude.. What engine?!!! Also, what temp is it coming in at?

Seems to me like your idle and/or LSN is too lean. This is what I would do...

• On the starter box, let the engine come up to about 200F.
• Richen the idle 1 hour at a time, until the engine dies and then lean it so that it idles for at least 15 seconds or more.
• Once it idles for 15 seconds or more, start working on adjusting the LSN. Blip the throttle and it should come back down to idle right away. If it doesn't, richen the LSN 1 hour at a time until it does.
• Put the car on the track, run two laps and bring the car in. Blip the throttle and see if the idle comes down right away. Two more laps - check. Two more laps - check. If you're idle isn't running away on you, you're probably good to go. Also make sure your temp is below 260. Anything above that and you probably need to richen your HSN.
• If the idle comes back down right away and your temp is below 240, you probably need to lean your HSN - i.e. retune your HSN.

These are just some rough settings to get you on the right track. Fine tune the LSN and HSN to get the best performance. As long as your idle comes back down when you blip the throttle, you should be okay.

Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps. Good luck tomorrow. :)

D YGPM

Also check your clutch bearings! I had a similar thing happen.

And thrust bearing!

Hi,I was wandering how hard was it to make the one way fit the xray?.I would like to try it...Any info would be appreciated...Thanks

Hey, thank you ....... thank you. :smile:

My friend, Daniz24, help me re tuned my novarossi NSR S5. My engine was doing 106 Celcius, and I cannot lean it any further because it was already maximum power. ( Lean any further.... it lost power on long straight line instead :flaming: ).

I did well yesterday ( considering my driving skill level vs. more experience drivers who were fallen into my group ). I start D9 and finish D4. Thanks to Xray NT1's superior handling....... The car is awesome for 2 days race event.

Here's is the kicker for you guys from DTM2007 ( Home of Serpent South East Asia ) : Sadikin Sutrisno, Xray international team drivers, WON 1ST PLACE AND TQ !!!! He beat other local and international factory team drivers ( no need to mentioned the other top three brands ). Winner in A2, A3, A4 were in finished the same number of total laps, except Sadikin, 1 lap earlier :sneaky:

And I won my betting !!! Xray vs all other car makers.

TEAMGP!! i see the GLC had rain, but overall finishes- WOW!!

XRAY@GLC= PRICELESS!!! hopefully we can see the setups soon!!

BTW, was that pic of Burch with his car...... the body was the PARMA?? not really sure.

gotta try one, since you have been running it against the Stratus..

:D :nod: :D

Not sure which body Ralph was using yet though. I'm going to try *another* body this weekend to see how it compares to the Parma M. :sneaky:

In the GLC thread there is a picture of Ralphs's car. The body is a Protoform Stratus. Look at the rear wing, the wing standoffs, and the molded in part of the front grill.

cool!! i guess the painted headlights threw me off... made the front more rounded and the front lip spoiler being that wide at that angle.. GOOD EYE!!

glad the TEAM did well!!!

Congrats to RCA team, great finish at GLC putting 6 cars in A-main... Ray Darroch finishing 4th, driving nitro touring car for the first time! Electric guys rule!! Thanks to Drew, Ralph, Paul, Barry, Ray, Tom Esposito for helping, offering help and answering questions throughout the event - much appreciated!
george

OK guys, I have sold my MTX-4...and instead of buying a mtx4-r I have decided on a NT1.. I hope it is a good choice and I hope it performs well for me.. I will be one of the only ones in Australia running it....everyone else runs mugen.

Just a couple questions,

what does the car lack from standard set-up? I don't like the sound of plastic shocks? Where can you buy alloy ones from?

what tyres do you run? is it the same as kyosho/mugen..or is it serpent type..

what option parts do I need straight away.

and lastly, did I make a bad choice by buying this car? haha..

cheers, Ryan

I think the car is a great improvement over the Mugen.
I didn't like the plastic shocks, so I got the aluminum ones, the plastic ones were better.The few things I think are needed are the multi-diff, front universals, the yellow clutch shoe, and the dark blue front springs. I also used kyosho springs in the 2 speed.I bougt the light weight drivetrain parts, but I don't think I am good enough to notice a huge difference.
Other than that, I can only tell you, I am not sorry about my choice.
And I don't think you will be either.

I've said it before, but how old was your Mugen?
I always wonder what would have happend if you bought a brand new Mugen instead, and compared it with the "old" worn out Mugen.......

Here is an interesting quote from Mike Myers' GLC report:

"In talking to several racers later in the day, I learned that while many products are competitive, some seem to be more competitive than others... As to the cars, XRAY seems to have developed an edge on the competition in the 200mm sedan class. With six of the 11 cars placed in the Main being XRAY, including the top five, that's an impressive showing!"

I have had several Mugen cars, (all "brand new") and this is just my opinion, but I believe the NT1, to be the better car out there, right now. That is the advantage to being the newest car out there.

you will have more fun & easy to drive !

IMO, the only thing the car "needs" out of the box is a different set of front springs (dark blues are very popular) and the proper gears for your engine/track. The front CVD's and yellow clutch shoe, however, are definitely worthwhile upgrades.

You don't need to worry too much about the plastic shock bodies - these are essentially the same design as the older generation of serpent shocks from 1/10 and 1/8. The angles of the shocks have been optimized so that the shock will not get trapped against the tower and snap the body when you hit. That being said, there is speculation that XRAY will re-release the aluminum bodies as options since they have a checkbox for aluminum shock bodies on the NT1 setup sheet.

For the tires...it is common to run at least one step softer in the front (i.e. 40R-38F or 42R-40F). I have been running JACO 42R and 38F on my car.

The NT1 is a very good car and a very sound design...I suspect that it will soon become the car to beat in Australia as it has become in the USA :smile:.

You made a great choice in the NT-1, my personal experiance with the MTX-4 was good, but when I drove the NT-1 I just fell in love with the amount of steering and corner speed the car has over the MTX4, my lap times dropped .6 per lap with the same motor/pipe/electronics that was in my MTX4. By the way anyone want to buy a MTX4 with one race weekend on it??:nod:

Ryan 41,

There is a lot of talented racers running the NT1 in Australia and depending on where you are. All the guys that are running them are more than happy to help you out. All you have to do is turn up to a track and ask them for there assistance.

Cheers