@ rx7ttlm

yes that´s the right picture, thanks ;)

Strip
 

You are probably running 17-23, 18 23 will fix this or you can use KM hk1 second gear and you can run any gearing without having to worry about strippage.
Note when I run 18 -24 i strip 1 gear every run, but the km does not strip.
Try them you wont be dissapointed.

thanks rx7ttlm

Really... KM gears?? They have the worst quality in the market (no offense).

I have ran 17-23 since I have the car (2 years and counting), and I have yet to strip a gear in a race.

I have seen many stripped KM spurs and many KM pinions sharpen in a few races, whereas XRAY's last a lifetime.

I disagree, most of the team uses 17/23 combo and 17/22 with great success on bigger tracks. If you try more than 5 tooth split then you have problems. Xray factory gears last longer than anything else I have used to date so I believe that is also incorrect. If your having better luck with the km gear I have a feeling your doing something different with that set. I have yet to strip a xray gear, I buzzed a 60 tooth on the 4mm chassis before the v2 4mm chassis came but I still finished and didn't find it till post race cleaning.

I have used every gear xray makes for this car and I can tell you most tracks you only need 16 as a just in case, but mostly 17/59 and 17/60 for best first gear performance (engine dependent/ traction, my jp liked a shorter first than that) and second is 22/53, 23/55, 23/54 and SOMETIMES 23/53. One track I use 24/55 but it's a tight mesh unless you mill the engine mount holes.

I ran a 20/54 all year but after stripping a second spur I moved up to a 20/55 for a tighter mesh and it still stripped out. I went over the car today and shafts and bearings are okay. I believe the root cause is the teeth on the 20 pinion gear are pointed in comparison to the 1st gear pinion which are rounded. I forget who it was that suggested I check it out but thank you. Also thanks all for the help and input.

If the pinion is sharp it will wear out spurs prematurely. Also you may get better engine performance with 21, even with non modified os engines they should be able to pull a 21 tooth unless your racing on a postage stamp lol.

If you race at a track like ft myers with boards and your prone to hitting them, hold off, at least in putting them in the front. I wouldn't use them with a spool in front either. But overall nice pieces and add to the rip of any engine.

Hi, I want to enter to nitro class, please let me know differences between NT1 and the new MTX5, Thanks

Hard to say since the MTX5 hasn't hit the shelves for regular people. I can say by the looks of it the 5 will be easier to work on for race day maintenance. Someone said its drivetrain is even more free than xray and cap. But that was with option belts. We will see. The NT1 is a proven platform which is very durable. However the price is a bit higher for parts.

i need to get front shocks which ones should i get . i lost one yesterday at the track i have an 09 eu thx

you lost an NT1 shock or a t2 2009 eu edition? If it's the eu you posted in the NT1 area lol.

opps yeah a nt1 ec not eu