18LikesXray NT1
02-20-2011, 11:22 PM
#5836
Tech Adept
ordred the last wc in australia to day
02-21-2011, 04:15 AM
#5837
If you see the rear differential pulley is left-position by approximately 1mm or more and so, rotating it will move too much to the right...
However the belt should not come out because the composite right-bulkhead will stop it (the belts will bump to the rear downward multiflex connection)
02-21-2011, 06:04 PM
#5838
Are you sure for what you said? I've already tried to rotate the diff but doing that the brake pulley and the diff pulley are no more aligned.
If you see the rear differential pulley is left-position by approximately 1mm or more and so, rotating it will move too much to the right...
However the belt should not come out because the composite right-bulkhead will stop it (the belts will bump to the rear downward multiflex connection)
If you see the rear differential pulley is left-position by approximately 1mm or more and so, rotating it will move too much to the right...
However the belt should not come out because the composite right-bulkhead will stop it (the belts will bump to the rear downward multiflex connection)
02-22-2011, 09:47 AM
#5839
What you say it's true but there are some parts that xray doesn't make. I'm talking about composite differential gears for example or different brake pads. Or if you see many of the xray (but also other brands) drivers use Sirio clutches because them are simply better or for they prefer them to the original one.
I'm looking for some titanium parts and I'm obliged to look at non-xray parts because the factory does not work on this material.
I've already heard about the low quality of the 3Racing titanium but as Riketsu said the shoe older hasn't a particular wear and so I think it's worth to try it.
Yesterday I tried out the new aluminium 2-speed belt pulley 20t (335910) and the best tip I can give you it's not to use it with soft-belts as them will trend to work all moved to the right. And finally you will race with a belt that run only for the half of his width on the diff pulley and the same on the brake pulley. Mounting a standard 5,5x177 reinforced belt will solve you all the problems.
I already wanted to revert to the standard belts due to the non-rielability of the soft ones (talking about the rear) and this is good for me
(sorry for my bad english...but I want to help you guys despite the "difficulty" of writing in another language)
bye
I'm looking for some titanium parts and I'm obliged to look at non-xray parts because the factory does not work on this material.
I've already heard about the low quality of the 3Racing titanium but as Riketsu said the shoe older hasn't a particular wear and so I think it's worth to try it.
Yesterday I tried out the new aluminium 2-speed belt pulley 20t (335910) and the best tip I can give you it's not to use it with soft-belts as them will trend to work all moved to the right. And finally you will race with a belt that run only for the half of his width on the diff pulley and the same on the brake pulley. Mounting a standard 5,5x177 reinforced belt will solve you all the problems.
I already wanted to revert to the standard belts due to the non-rielability of the soft ones (talking about the rear) and this is good for me
(sorry for my bad english...but I want to help you guys despite the "difficulty" of writing in another language)
bye
02-22-2011, 10:17 AM
#5840
Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
02-22-2011, 10:46 AM
#5841
Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
Hope that helps.
Thanks Drew
02-22-2011, 11:02 AM
#5842
Hi, i want some help for the High Dynamic centax.
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
From what I have read so far is that the correct way to build the HD centax is the same as the standard (0.6-0.7mm gap and 1.0-1.1mm preload).
When I try to build it that way the clutch slips and the car does not start.
After experimenting I have found that the only way that the HD centax operates properly is when I build it with 0.6-0.7mm gap and 0.0-0.3mm preload.
This way is operates properly. My problem is that the clutch works properly for the first 5-10min of a race and then the preformance starts to degrade.
Could you enlighten me on this?
0.4-0.5mm gap
I always start with around 0.75mm preload and adjust until the clutch starts slipping. Then I back out 1/4th of a full turn and that should be the spot.
I also use the small set screws in the shoe and have found that this produces a more aggressive clutch. Also, the red shoe is a great improvement over the white or yellow.
You should also take a look at the XRAY hard spring for the clutch. I have had trouble helping others with their clutches and always have found the problem to be in the spring being too soft.
Check these springs:
-RCAmerica Spring
-Xray HARD Spring
-Shepherd VCC Spring
-Mugen MSR Hard Spring
All of them are very good springs. Careful with the MSR spring, a friend of mine bought one recently and found it was too long to fit the clutch... But I believe this was just a bad batch or something went wrong with it.
02-22-2011, 01:28 PM
#5843
Thank you for the answers. I will try all of this...
02-22-2011, 01:38 PM
#5844
2010 WCE or 2011
Drew or others,
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
02-22-2011, 02:40 PM
#5845
Tech Adept
Troy i was in the same delima here in australia i cold only track down one wc left so i bit the bullett just in case the 11 was a long way of arriving on inspection the chassis is the only diffrence so id say grab the wc and later buy the chassis
i dont think it would make dick all diffrence unless you are are tq now any ways and i gather not since you wont to switch camps
i dont think it would make dick all diffrence unless you are are tq now any ways and i gather not since you wont to switch camps
02-22-2011, 03:20 PM
#5846
Drew or others,
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
02-23-2011, 05:08 AM
#5847
New RB T11 RS
Drew thaks again for your informations,I would like thow to ask you what is your opinion about the new RB engine T11 rs,and what kind of sedax you would build for this kind of engine in order to get the maximum performance.
consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...
Thank you in advance.
consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...
Thank you in advance.
02-23-2011, 06:28 AM
#5848
Drew or others,
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
I am switching from a Kyosho Vone RRR Evo2 to an NT1 this season. There are a few 2010 World Championship editions left around online. I am wondering if I should get one or wait for the 2011? What are the differences other than the 2011 chassis? When will the 2011 be out?
Thanks,
Troy
Thanks Drew
02-23-2011, 06:30 AM
#5849
Drew thaks again for your informations,I would like thow to ask you what is your opinion about the new RB engine T11 rs,and what kind of sedax you would build for this kind of engine in order to get the maximum performance.
consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...
Thank you in advance.
consider that in greece the tracks have low to medium grip,and the temperature at this period is up to 18-20 degrees...
Thank you in advance.
The engine seems to be OK. I think the best RB's are done by Murnan.
Thanks Drew
02-23-2011, 07:48 AM
#5850
We have some in stock at RCAmerica (WE). I would go with that. The 11 only has a new chassis compared to the 10. I think the WE is the best buy as it comes with everything you will need. A few guys have just bought the WE car and are just going to buy the chassis when we have it in stock.
Thanks Drew
Thanks Drew