kickass

iTrader: (6)

Can some one tell me if this CSO HARDCOATED BREAK DICK (as found on CSO web site) will make my car faster or just more desirable ???? Please only honest answer as I don't want to throw away money fornuffing - OMG.

SOLOARTIST 702

more desirable

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

tl2111

iTrader: (21)

is a Aluminum disc and will wears out but does give good braking.

NikoRacing

Hi to all!!

I just want to known if any of you tried the Titanium Center shaft (xn1-09) and Titanium 2nd shoe holder (xn1-10) for NT1 and how are them?

Any problem using this options? Now I'm using standard Xray's holder and optional spring steel hollow center shaft.

I'm always interested on decreasing the transmission weight but don't want to compromise the rielability

thanks to all

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

I have been using the titanium shoe holder for a few months now... Never had any problems of skipping 2nd gear or gear strip.

The titanium shoe is actually almost half the weight of the original one. And the wear is almost non-existent because cylinders instead of balls are used...

I don't know if the middle shaft of 3racing is lighter... And I dont think it would present a problem since the xray drivetrain uses pins instead of setscrews/adapters...

If you do get it, let us know if there is any difference in weight between them...

Hope this helps.

NikoRacing

Ok thanks for the reply!

About the shaft..I think it should be lighter than the Xray's option one because the 3Racing Ti-shaft is hollow too but it's made by a lighter material...
..so if 1+1=2 it has to be lighter!

I had doubts on it since I've ever seen hollow steel shafts or not-hollow titanium shafts... and seing an "hollow Ti shaft" is uncommon

chovden

iTrader: (1)

Actualy the Xray hollow 2 speed shaft and hollow middle shaft is lighter than the 3-racing and CSO shafts, from memory its 3g on the middle shaft and about 5 on the 2 speed shaft.
This is probbably due to the walls are thinner in the Xray then 3-racing and CSO

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

I've tried the 3 Racing stuff and the quality is no where near the quality of Xray and CSO. In my opinion 3 racing parts will fail at the wrong time. I even used them when I was running Mugen and had the same experience.

kmichael

iTrader: (4)

+1 stick with xray if you can, the quality is best,you get what you pay for

JLock

iTrader: (4)

Got an Xray NT1R and I don't know why anyone would use non-Xray aftermarket parts on it. When I make my minor upgrades, it will definitely by OEM Xray parts. Xray products have the best fit/finish and quality upgrade parts on the market.

rufazz

hey guys what do you reckon that the nt1-11 will e like compared to the nt1 wc car.

im looking in the next few days to buy a kit and cant decided between he 733

orthe nt1 i know every one wll say the nt1 here but the questern is shoud i wait for the -11 to arrive or gt the wc edition know

D-nicest

Other than having the new 2011 chassis with the inserts, I doubt the 2011 will include as many hop ups as the WC edition. Thats if there actually is a 2011 car. IMO Get a WC while they're still available, best bang for your buck

NikoRacing

What you say it's true but there are some parts that xray doesn't make. I'm talking about composite differential gears for example or different brake pads. Or if you see many of the xray (but also other brands) drivers use Sirio clutches because them are simply better or for they prefer them to the original one.

I'm looking for some titanium parts and I'm obliged to look at non-xray parts because the factory does not work on this material.
I've already heard about the low quality of the 3Racing titanium but as Riketsu said the shoe older hasn't a particular wear and so I think it's worth to try it.

Yesterday I tried out the new aluminium 2-speed belt pulley 20t (335910) and the best tip I can give you it's not to use it with soft-belts as them will trend to work all moved to the right. And finally you will race with a belt that run only for the half of his width on the diff pulley and the same on the brake pulley. Mounting a standard 5,5x177 reinforced belt will solve you all the problems.
I already wanted to revert to the standard belts due to the non-rielability of the soft ones (talking about the rear) and this is good for me

(sorry for my bad english...but I want to help you guys despite the "difficulty" of writing in another language)

bye

D-nicest

When using the opt 20t alu pulley be sure to rotate your diff so that the guiding side walls are on opposite sides. That will keep the belt from wondering off and damaging the teeth...