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Old 03-08-2010, 02:14 PM   #4966
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not sure i need to put it that low, I like my car to roll somewhat lol
Well, fit some softer springs or a lower Rollcentre.
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:48 PM   #4967
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Well, fit some softer springs or a lower Rollcentre.
well my friend, I have yet to traction roll. and My car is nice and quick. I think I proved with my T3 being a little over weight isn't going to kill you. (ran a two day about 60 grams over weight and still did well my first two day with the car) I tend to spend my time doing other silly things like racing my T3 till nitro season starts lol. I think Tackling the heat sink head on my engine is a higher priority than getting my throttle servo 2mm lower lol. Agree'd? And I am far to impatient to order a throttle arm and have it black anodized lol. I am going to lower it, but I don't have all my RX packs Lipo or li Fe yet, so till then I will stick with stock height tank. I hope to have less than 10 grams of ballast on the left side by the end of the day Titanium screws be damned.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:07 PM   #4968
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well my friend, I have yet to traction roll. and My car is nice and quick. I think I proved with my T3 being a little over weight isn't going to kill you. (ran a two day about 60 grams over weight and still did well my first two day with the car) I tend to spend my time doing other silly things like racing my T3 till nitro season starts lol. I think Tackling the heat sink head on my engine is a higher priority than getting my throttle servo 2mm lower lol. Agree'd? And I am far to impatient to order a throttle arm and have it black anodized lol. I am going to lower it, but I don't have all my RX packs Lipo or li Fe yet, so till then I will stick with stock height tank. I hope to have less than 10 grams of ballast on the left side by the end of the day Titanium screws be damned.
I'm not talking about traction roll, when you have less unsprung weight you could use softer springs and dampers without affecting the roll compared to more unsprung weight and harder springs and dampers. This will create more overall traction.
The same goes for the rollcentre, lower CG means you can get away with a lower rollcentre without having more roll compared to a high CG and a high rollcentre. Again more overall grip.

According to my calculations I can go one step softer in the springs department and drop my damper oil from 500cst to 400cst without changing overall balance or roll of the car. It will only have more grip.
I have made an Excel file which does all of these calculations, normally I use it to setup the 1:1 cars at work but last season I adapted it to my NT1 and it get's better every time I work with it.

To quote one of the pioneers of modern day motorsport 'To add speed, add lightness'
I think you should have your car as light as the regulations let you.
Of course you have to do this wisely and not just buy every single lightweight hopup and throw it on your car.
But lowering a part is always good and I think it is worth it to spend some time on this.

And yes, I immediately agree that lowering or reduce the weight of your heatsink is more important as lowering your throttle servo.
I'm also working on a lighter heatsink. First I will adept a stock RB one, but I'm also planning to make one myself on a lathe, can't be that hard.

I needed exactly 0 grams to balance my car, probably because of the lower throttle servo.

And I would love to race electro in the winter, but since I'm still in University my fundings are limited and I know myself good enough that when I would start with electro it had to be fully tricked out as well.
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:24 PM   #4969
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I'm not talking about traction roll, when you have less unsprung weight you could use softer springs and dampers without affecting the roll compared to more unsprung weight and harder springs and dampers. This will create more overall traction.
The same goes for the rollcentre, lower CG means you can get away with a lower rollcentre without having more roll compared to a high CG and a high rollcentre. Again more overall grip.

According to my calculations I can go one step softer in the springs department and drop my damper oil from 500cst to 400cst without changing overall balance or roll of the car. It will only have more grip.
I have made an Excel file which does all of these calculations, normally I use it to setup the 1:1 cars at work but last season I adapted it to my NT1 and it get's better every time I work with it.

To quote one of the pioneers of modern day motorsport 'To add speed, add lightness'
I think you should have your car as light as the regulations let you.
Of course you have to do this wisely and not just buy every single lightweight hopup and throw it on your car.
But lowering a part is always good and I think it is worth it to spend some time on this.

And yes, I immediately agree that lowering or reduce the weight of your heatsink is more important as lowering your throttle servo.
I'm also working on a lighter heatsink. First I will adept a stock RB one, but I'm also planning to make one myself on a lathe, can't be that hard.

I needed exactly 0 grams to balance my car, probably because of the lower throttle servo.

And I would love to race electro in the winter, but since I'm still in University my fundings are limited and I know myself good enough that when I would start with electro it had to be fully tricked out as well.
We both work in motorsports, so we know about unsprung weight. I am just not prepared to have a DNF to save an oz of unsprung weight. Hitting things is a side affect of racing, more often than not when I hit things its when someone else hits me. So since I have yet to have a steel pivot ball fail I am unwilling to change them to AL, If someone made ti pivot balls of equivalent quality then I might consider it. But I have spent a crap load of money racing, testing and lightening cars. It always comes down to having a setup and a package that's newtral, good on gas mileage with decent power. I can't say I have lost a race in a margin of 0.003 seconds over a main. The tracks I run aren't extremely bumpy, but after testing different shocks, shock valving, shock pistons, shock oils, my own adjustable compression / rebound adjustable shocks. I have gone back to running stock xray shocks. Serpent RCC shocks are a bit better, last longer between rebuilds, and are easier to bleed. But not worth the cost to outfit all of my cars since I rebuild shocks every race day anyhow. I am just going to test different Oring materials on the stock and al shocks that are more resistant to silicone based oils Since I just need my shocks to be good for an hour at a time lol.

This is the reason I still run xray rather than serpent. Is to finish, you must first finish. I have had a pretty stellar finishing percentage since I ran an Xray. Better than when I ran mugen, and serpent. So if it works, I am not messing with it to much anymore lol. If you want to use the al / light parts, go ahead. I will stick with making parts fit better, and work better by alignment and setup. My brake bulkhead / caliper won't be ready for 2010. But maybe if they don't update the car much I will roll out some fancy brake setups for 2011. For nats this year, my car will basicly be a NT1 EC, with the stock clutch, lightened steel clutch bell, yellow shoe and orion spring, with slight suspension tweaks.

are you sharing your excel spreadsheet at this time? lol
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Old 03-08-2010, 07:48 PM   #4970
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Yes, if I would race on the US style tracks with all the barriers and such, I also would be a bit more cautious about saving weight and the strength/durability of the car.
But this is the kind of track I race on, no barriers just soft grass.



So no broken parts, actually didn't break a single part all year last year.
Have my spare car still brand new in the box.

The Serpent RCC shocks are really good indeed, I hope Xray decide to go that way as well. The only part about the NT1 which is below par are the shocks if you ask me.
I recently bought a set of Tamiya ones to try, the quality of them is outstanding.
And they're pretty cheap compared to the Serpent ones.

Can't share the excel file, it's basically how I earn my money.
If a racingteam wants to buy a tailor made excel file off me they pay $1000+
Took me 100+ hours to get it up to this level of accuracy.
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Old 03-08-2010, 08:08 PM   #4971
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Yes, if I would race on the US style tracks with all the barriers and such, I also would be a bit more cautious about saving weight and the strength/durability of the car.
But this is the kind of track I race on, no barriers just soft grass.



So no broken parts, actually didn't break a single part all year last year.
Have my spare car still brand new in the box.

The Serpent RCC shocks are really good indeed, I hope Xray decide to go that way as well. The only part about the NT1 which is below par are the shocks if you ask me.
I recently bought a set of Tamiya ones to try, the quality of them is outstanding.
And they're pretty cheap compared to the Serpent ones.

Can't share the excel file, it's basically how I earn my money.
If a racingteam wants to buy a tailor made excel file off me they pay $1000+
Took me 100+ hours to get it up to this level of accuracy.
I was teasing about your excel, I wouldn't sell mine. LOL. If you want it, you hire me for the season and I take care of things. The only thing the teams keep is my setup sheets that are censored lol. They pay me for my time for calibration, setup, calculations, everything lol. I was just curious if you would share lol. I figured you wouldn't lol. u know what makes me laugh, when I tell someone we need to calibrate shock pots (potentiometers) and they look at me funny.

I broke one rear arm, and I pulled a pivot ball through the front upright and a camber link of another mfg (testing parts again), but it was a HARD hit and I drove the car back around and it had cracked the arm but it held together.

Well seeing as your track is a fair bit different I could see maybe running Al pivot balls if I ran that track only. But I have to be able to drop my car on any US track and know its good. I am actually in the process of writing some how to articles for nitro for the xray site :-). We will see how long they take since I am racing at least twice a week lately.

my new test track, built by some truely kick ass people

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Old 03-08-2010, 09:11 PM   #4972
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And yes, I immediately agree that lowering or reduce the weight of your heatsink is more important as lowering your throttle servo.
I'm also working on a lighter heatsink. First I will adept a stock RB one, but I'm also planning to make one myself on a lathe, can't be that hard.
Well, I tried lightening my MAX heatsink by drilling like 6 more holes. If I shaved 2 grams, I may be exaggerating.

I am borrowing a Team Titan Heat sink in a few days, 16 grams should do something. Yet, I am in search for a Ninja Magnesium Head .
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #4973
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Well, I tried lightening my MAX heatsink by drilling like 6 more holes. If I shaved 2 grams, I may be exaggerating.

I am borrowing a Team Titan Heat sink in a few days, 16 grams should do something. Yet, I am in search for a Ninja Magnesium Head .
Yeah, Drilling doesn't net you much. I drilled 18 holes in my ballast plate for my T3 and it removed about 15 grams when the piece started out at 80. and it now looks like swiss cheese lol.

I know there is at least one person on this forum that has a ninja and a max. I forget who it is. I just want to find out if the heatsink bolts on lol
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:32 PM   #4974
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Well, I tried lightening my MAX heatsink by drilling like 6 more holes. If I shaved 2 grams, I may be exaggerating.

I am borrowing a Team Titan Heat sink in a few days, 16 grams should do something. Yet, I am in search for a Ninja Magnesium Head .
I might have one of those heads laying around somewhere...will have to dig through my pile of things I knew I shouldn't discard...Will let you know.
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:37 PM   #4975
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I might have one of those heads laying around somewhere...will have to dig through my pile of things I knew I shouldn't discard...Will let you know.
Meron!! whats up little brother!. Well let me know if it fits, That would be hilarious. "So your running the ninja engine now, Nope... Max" then check out the look on their face.. lol
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Old 03-08-2010, 09:59 PM   #4976
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Meron!! whats up little brother!. Well let me know if it fits, That would be hilarious. "So your running the ninja engine now, Nope... Max" then check out the look on their face.. lol
HaHA big bro....What up actually haven't ran a ninja in a long time...just couldn't bear to part with the head, actually don't have a Max either, but I think I can get my hands on one to try and see if it fits....As for this year engine choice is yet to be determined....
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Old 03-08-2010, 10:17 PM   #4977
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HaHA big bro....What up actually haven't ran a ninja in a long time...just couldn't bear to part with the head, actually don't have a Max either, but I think I can get my hands on one to try and see if it fits....As for this year engine choice is yet to be determined....
well as usual the max has good power and fuel economy. Not many changes for 2010. But I like the engines and have had good luck.Or Just send me the head and I will check, Cause I have all three generations of the max
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Old 03-09-2010, 03:32 AM   #4978
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I might have one of those heads laying around somewhere...will have to dig through my pile of things I knew I shouldn't discard...Will let you know.
You have a magnesium ninja head (white) laying around??? Or a regular one? I am pretty sure it fits, gotta ask my friend to try it on.
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:12 AM   #4979
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You have a magnesium ninja head (white) laying around??? Or a regular one? I am pretty sure it fits, gotta ask my friend to try it on.
I have a magnessium head
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:16 AM   #4980
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I have gone back to running stock xray shocks. Serpent RCC shocks are a bit better, last longer between rebuilds, and are easier to bleed. But not worth the cost to outfit all of my cars since I rebuild shocks every race day anyhow. I am just going to test different Oring materials on the stock and al shocks that are more resistant to silicone based oils Since I just need my shocks to be good for an hour at a time lol.
you may want to try standard nitrile o-ring they wont be affected by silicone oil like silicone o-rings do.
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