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Old 02-05-2010, 12:08 PM   #4786
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That the same trick that I used to do on my old G4. It really made a difference the turn radius. We also did it on the front arms also. Remember though that if you do to the lower arms you also need to do it to the upper arms or your castor capabilities will be reduced.
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:43 PM   #4787
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That the same trick that I used to do on my old G4. It really made a difference the turn radius. We also did it on the front arms also. Remember though that if you do to the lower arms you also need to do it to the upper arms or your castor capabilities will be reduced.
yeah... the only complaint i had for the nt1 was that the wheelbase couldnt be shortened... a 2 mm shorter wheelbase can really help in turn especially in a tight track...

since i am not as adventurous with the dremel, i shall wait for the 2010 spec front sus wings to come....

great job Mr Hudy....
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:45 PM   #4788
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If you want to shorten the rear arms cut them on the front portion. Then put the spacers towards the rear. If you cut the back off the wheel base won't get any shorter.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:42 PM   #4789
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Got the Tungsten weights in, and they are just perfect.
Weighted all the components and the car comes in at 1701 grams
The only thing I have to do is glue all the cubes together and fix them to the car with some double-sided tape.
It all fits below the 4mm lowered fueltank.

Hmmm... This sure is an interesting approach to solving your underweight problem. How does the extra weight change the weight distribution of the car?

Have you considered fabricating a more elaborate battery tray that fills in the slot in the chassis and then overlaps the chassis a bit on the side and the back? You seem to be losing a bit of what you've gained by adding all that weight on top - but I could be wrong.
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Old 02-06-2010, 04:59 PM   #4790
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That the same trick that I used to do on my old G4. It really made a difference the turn radius. We also did it on the front arms also. Remember though that if you do to the lower arms you also need to do it to the upper arms or your castor capabilities will be reduced.
I have it also on the front, cut 2mm of the rear of the front lower arms.
Didn't cut the upper arms because normally I run 2mm of caster shims behind the upper arm.

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Hmmm... This sure is an interesting approach to solving your underweight problem. How does the extra weight change the weight distribution of the car?

Have you considered fabricating a more elaborate battery tray that fills in the slot in the chassis and then overlaps the chassis a bit on the side and the back? You seem to be losing a bit of what you've gained by adding all that weight on top - but I could be wrong.
Well it's funny you mention this, my first idea was this:



But the lowest quote to get it fabricated was $120
So when I found the Tungsten for $40 and it is reusable if I switch to a different chassis it was a pretty straight forward decision.
But I think it actually lowers the CG compared to a brass tray or the brass hudy weight. The upper 5 blocks I might put them between the tank and radioplate supports instead of on top of the other blocks.
Another option is to machine down the brass battery tray so the Tungsten plates will be lower.
The problem is, that it is pretty much impossible to drill or cut the Tungsten.
Even with Diamond coated drills or cutting disks.
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:40 PM   #4791
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Well it's funny you mention this, my first idea was this:
Cool!

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But the lowest quote to get it fabricated was $120
Have you checked with YBSlow to see if he can hook you up? He has access to equipment. I take it you've seen his store: http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php
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Old 02-06-2010, 05:43 PM   #4792
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LOL, i figured you knew what you were in for with drilling tungsten. But I guess not. Its a great ballast but there is a reason so many people use lead, brass or steel. Brass is used so much because its easy to machine lol. I think I will stick with my lipo with brass tray for now lol. I just need the 2413 servos and I think I will be dead on.



brass plates on LH side weigh 40.1 and the lipo with plate weigh 116.5grams. Can't give out the total weights yet because I am in the process of rebuilding. Should be a couple grams over min weight with 51mm F/ 52.5mm R
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Old 02-06-2010, 06:45 PM   #4793
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Cool!


Have you checked with YBSlow to see if he can hook you up? He has access to equipment. I take it you've seen his store: http://www.ybslowinc.com/products.php
Haven't checked with YBslow, it might be interesting for my new project.
Also I have to pay for international shipping which jacks up the price.
The only way I think the brass tray might be doable is to have it made in a large quantity and sell it with the Lipo which fits the tray. Only don't think many people will be interested.

About the weight distribution, I don't think that is going to be an issue because I'm pretty much adding weight on the spot where the CG sits.
Weight distribution is 40/60 which is pretty much dead on for a 4WD car.
Can shift it around a little by moving the front and rear wishbones.

@ rx7ttlm

I knew about the properties of Tungsten, that's why I ordered these small blocks and plates which could be made to size by simply glueing them together.
I might cut one of the plates in half, but I don't think that is going to be a problem with some heavy machinery.
With two low profile servo's you need a lot less weight on the LH side. Probably around 10-25 grams, depends if you are using the receiver box.

Also pay close attention to the 2413 servos, I had one on throttle and it fried within one race. Have been using the Futaba for a year on throttle and it is still perfect.
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Old 02-06-2010, 11:40 PM   #4794
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My NT1 (original) is up for sale. It's only got a few hours on it. Click here.
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Old 02-07-2010, 08:38 AM   #4795
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Anyone knows when the 2010 will be out?
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Old 02-07-2010, 10:42 AM   #4796
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Does anyone know if we will be able to use the new belts and the new front lower arms in the 2009 EC edition??
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Old 02-07-2010, 11:06 AM   #4797
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Does anyone know if we will be able to use the new belts and the new front lower arms in the 2009 EC edition??
Yes, because Xray didn't announce any new pulleys or front bulkhead.

Expect the car to be available within a few weeks, as well as the new parts, or upgrade package. Think that most parts will be labeled V2 or V3.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:30 AM   #4798
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@ rx7ttlm

I knew about the properties of Tungsten, that's why I ordered these small blocks and plates which could be made to size by simply glueing them together.
I might cut one of the plates in half, but I don't think that is going to be a problem with some heavy machinery.
With two low profile servo's you need a lot less weight on the LH side. Probably around 10-25 grams, depends if you are using the receiver box.

Also pay close attention to the 2413 servos, I had one on throttle and it fried within one race. Have been using the Futaba for a year on throttle and it is still perfect.
I use the Rx box, I know it weighs 28 grams. But I like having my RX protected from the elements and flying debris. I am sure the 2413 will be fine. KO servo's are very reliable. Just make sure your end points don't load the servo and your good. And with my KO TX, I get ultra high response with the 2413. If they happen to crap out I have the big daddy 2367's as back ups. My left side ballast will change depending on how much I need. I just modified those plates the other night. So I don't know what the real numbers will be. I got my T3 balanced to within 3 grams left to right on my first try lol. More mods throughout the raining season...
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Old 02-08-2010, 08:20 AM   #4799
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Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.

Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:19 AM   #4800
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Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.

Thanks for your help.
I always adjust it so it can fit on a measuring block. For example if Im going to adjust front width to 199mm, I adjust the front side of the tires(because of the toe out) to 199mm. I hope I expressed myself correctly.
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