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Old 02-08-2010, 09:26 AM   #4801
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Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.

Thanks for your help.
I always measured it in the middle bottom part of the tire because there is where it is measured in Technical inspection.
But the best is the Hudy all in one setup which I currently have, makes it very easy to set trackwidth right to 200mm.
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Old 02-08-2010, 09:43 AM   #4802
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Quick question guys... How do you measure your front/rear width with a caliper. I have a big one that measures up to 212mm, but I do not know if I should measure it on the lowest part of the tire, on the rear where the toe is taken into consideration, or on the middle where the nut is.

Thanks for your help.
Measure the bottom. at centerline, that's where I do.. anyone else?
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Old 02-09-2010, 01:48 AM   #4803
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I place the rear/front axles in line with the rear/front lines on my set up board and measure where the wheel nut is, then i set my toe in/out.
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Old 02-09-2010, 06:25 AM   #4804
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Normally I measure car track width at the bottom of tires, 6 o'clock position, 200mm rear, 198mm front.

However, in some strict official races, I use 199mm track width ( because the officials use 200mm width template, and rear tires at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock position usually won't fit into 200mm width template ).
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Old 02-09-2010, 05:00 PM   #4805
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Oil Diff conversion rate?

Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???

Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.

Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
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Old 02-10-2010, 09:45 AM   #4806
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For those who want to put some weight at the lowest part of the car;
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932

It also helps cooling the engine.
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Old 02-10-2010, 10:02 AM   #4807
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For those who want to put some weight at the lowest part of the car;
http://www.redrc.net/2010/02/caprico...nt/#more-27932

It also helps cooling the engine.
Thats good stuff .... thanks for the information Musti !! Very helpful.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:31 PM   #4808
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Since most of us are waiting for the racing season to start, ie rain and crap weather to go away. Why not post things you have done to your car, with pictures.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:34 PM   #4809
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Originally Posted by Riketsu View Post
Oil Diff conversion rate?

Hey guys, I have noticed that since NT1's diff are so small... a 60k in the rear actually feel like 20k-30k, or somewhere around there. Has anyone tried a full comparison between NT1's diffs and the diffs of cars like MTX4/RRR???

Like to say... if its half... And I would want 50k in my diff, I would use 100k in my rear diff.

Another example is that I am using Diff Locking Fluid upfront, and it only feels like 200k-300k.
send me a mugen or kyosho diff and I will test it lol
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:43 PM   #4810
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Since most of us are waiting for the racing season to start, ie rain and crap weather to go away. Why not post things you have done to your car, with pictures.
I havent actually done anything interesting to my car lately, Im only rebuilding it for now.

The real interesting stuff is coming in march...
Im planning to do a big comparison between Lab-c01 and nt1 parts' weight, as well as building review with a track test.
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Old 02-10-2010, 03:46 PM   #4811
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I was actually just looking at the capricorn (sp?) diff gears. Anyone of you europe guys, can you give me a price shipped to usa, 97229? lol. I am curious if they would actually hold up. Breaking a diff gear in a race would be the worst kind of suck lol
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Old 02-10-2010, 05:58 PM   #4812
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Well, I redid all the electronics today.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.





I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
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Old 02-10-2010, 06:02 PM   #4813
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
I was actually just looking at the capricorn (sp?) diff gears. Anyone of you europe guys, can you give me a price shipped to usa, 97229? lol. I am curious if they would actually hold up. Breaking a diff gear in a race would be the worst kind of suck lol
You could just go to the capricorn shop, make an account and shipping will be calculated?.
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Old 02-10-2010, 11:25 PM   #4814
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Well, I redid all the electronics today.
Kind of pleased how it turned out.
Only don't like the wiring of the balancer, but is was the only way to mount it on the rightside of the car.
Still have to make a carbonfiber shield which will be attached to the bottom of the receiver to protect the wiring.
Last year I ran the car without it but had some slight scuff marks on the wiring.





I'm also working on some other stuff I saw on the new MRX-5, currently doing some calculations and sketching in Cad. Hoping to have it made in the weekend.
Also really making progress on my own 1/10 car design.
Planning to use the NT1 (or Lab-C01) driveline and wishbones and uprights.
All the other stuff will be new and quite different.
Maybe I will post some renders this week when I finally get solidworks to work in a Mac.
The wiring is neat and secure. I like the idea of using heat shrink tubes all the way to connectors.

Btw, don't you worry someone might t-bone you from radio side ? ( I see you dont use the radio box ).
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Last edited by asw7576; 02-10-2010 at 11:38 PM.
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Old 02-11-2010, 04:23 AM   #4815
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DS Motorsport, really not the best way to mount your PT. It should be mounted horizontaly, there's a distinct possibility that you will get missed counts.
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