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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport
(Post 5534318)
O sorry forgot to mention, this is with the old springs, never used the new one's.
Had the old one's laying around from my 710-720 days. Btw, did anyone tried lowering the engine?. I think it's pretty easy to lower it by 1mm, because i'm currently running the serpent WC clutch with the small flywheel and it's pretty hard to get the starter wheel to grab the flywheel. I would only like to know if you will run into issues with the stock flywheel i.e. hitting the ground.
Originally Posted by rx7ttlm
(Post 5535582)
if you had the inclination you could lower the engine 1mm or so by milling the bottom of the lower engine mounts.
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 5536694)
If you were to lower the engine by 1mm then you would have to also move the engine back about 1mm also. Then you would have to slot the lower screw locations on the chassis and re-countersink them. Then every time you hit something, the engine would have the chance to move forward up to 1 mm, stripping your gears...but what do I know.
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 5536694)
If you were to lower the engine by 1mm then you would have to also move the engine back about 1mm also. Then you would have to slot the lower screw locations on the chassis and re-countersink them. Then every time you hit something, the engine would have the chance to move forward up to 1 mm, stripping your gears...but what do I know.
Thanks, that saves me a set of engine mounts. :sweat: And i don't want to go as far as to mod the great mounting system xray uses on the car. |
2 Attachment(s)
CSO
3.1mm 7075 T6 Hard coated main chassis Rear shock tower http://www.rctech.net/forum/rc-marke...ml#post5538204 |
Originally Posted by RC MARKET
(Post 5539208)
CSO
3.1mm 7075 T6 Hard coated main chassis Rear shock tower http://www.rctech.net/forum/rc-marke...ml#post5538204 |
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
(Post 5539531)
CSO.......hmmm
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CSO is one of the top racer in HK. And his company "CSO" made lot of upgrade parts for the NT1.
Originally Posted by rx7ttlm
(Post 5539607)
who is CSO?:confused:
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Originally Posted by ehirobo.com
(Post 5542195)
CSO is one of the top racer in HK. And his company "CSO" made lot of upgrade parts for the NT1.
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Whats the best way to clean out the differentials when changing the silicone oil?
-=light=- |
I use a small flat blade screw driver to crape most of it out then just use a rag to wipe it all clean. time consuming but pretty clean way of doing it
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Originally Posted by light
(Post 5545042)
Whats the best way to clean out the differentials when changing the silicone oil?
-=light=-
Originally Posted by mrgsr
(Post 5545048)
I use a small flat blade screw driver to crape most of it out then just use a rag to wipe it all clean. time consuming but pretty clean way of doing it
If you have more time, and are not in a rush, like at home, I take everything out and lay it out on a lint free towel overnight, put the case upside down and when you get to it the next day, its as clean as you can get it, |
I put the hole thing in a can with kerosene, leave it overnight and it will be gone.
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You people are so diligent ...... I use tissue to clean the diff unit :D and put everything back in 5 minutes :lol:
Btw, I put a dab of tamiya ceramic grease to keep the diff gears last longer. |
Diff setup
For a smaller track 80 ft straight with a long sweeper and tight infield what would be a better setup? #1 60.000 cst rear 80.000 cst front #2 80.000 cst rear 100.000 cst front #3 60.000 cst rear 100.000 cst front |
my diffs are leaking even if I dont run the car.:cry: is it because my large oring is getting old?
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