I attached the larger o-ring (971031) on the bottom of the shock body as indicated. The smaller o-ring (970050) floats loose on the shock shaft once I undo the bottom cap and start slowly pumping the shock piston.

sounds like these shocks are a bit of a pain
but i hear they work ok.

Use which engine in your NT1 bester ?

Thanks!

Hey R/C Market, I use a Max Power SL3 Engine. It has awesome power and is super reliable. It will idle for as long as i want it to. I think it's just as fast as the Novarossi Plus 12-3CT. Deffinately the best motor i have ever owned.

Regards, Ryan

I ran the car today and was very impressed with it's performance out on the track. Much better than I expected for a first run. The car was totally hooked up with the stock setup! Really easy to drive and fast. Stratus 3.1 body, K-Factory tires and TZ 3-port (stock). Front trackwidth was 196mm and I had a ton of steering. I am going to race the car in this configuration next month when our club races again.

I do have a question though... Where/what is that whirling/twirling chirping sound coming from when the car is on-throttle???

Just FYI... The rear diff leaked today. The front diff leaked even before I put it in the car and I did end up using Permatex to seal it.

http://www.nitrokb.com/images/nitrokb.com_nt1.jpg

I think max uses nova engines but he tweak the engine a bit....stock vs modified?:blush:

Glad you like it. I've been really happy with mine. Mine also makes the "whirling/chirping sound". Remindes me of a turbo with a blowoff valve:nod: I think it must be the clutch.

As for the diffs, mine leaked the first time I built them, but after changing the diff oil a few times I think I was able to get the o-ring in place better and haven't had a leak since. I do wish they had a more conventional gasket though. I hate having to replace the o-ring everytime I decide to try a different diff setup.

I built a few extra diffs for the car, so doing quicker setup changes isn't as time consuming, but I hadn't had any leaks. Much better than the MTX...mine ALWAYS leaked, even with extra sealant. The whining sound when you hit the throttle and let off, mine did that for a while, but went away after a while, think it might have something to do with the brake disk.

I too had front and rear leaking problems after my first build but that was because I over filled the diffs, after fully following the manual it never leaked. hmm I think I need to try a different diff oil :cool:

After racing mine for the first time, I put my MTX4 on the shelf! ;);) My diffs don't leak, however my pivot balls and pivot ball cups continually re-adjust while driving. I put in some thread locker, so hopefully that prevents it from happening anymore. :confused:

Any other short-comings anyone else has witnessed, so I can be better prepared for my next race? I did purchase CVD's, which was one of the short comings.

I believe the hard front foam bumper helps protect the body a bit more at the cost of some weight but other than the front cvd's this kit is really top notch.

I did manage to have a wheel come off with no impact (with one of the kawahara gnarled lock nuts installed with the grip of death) and I lost the plastic wheel hex, roll pin and one bearing so the aluminum hexes may help you out to at least keep everything together.

The two guys who tried the car were, "Hey! What's that sound??" and I told them, "Who knows? Don't worry about it. If there is something wrong with it, it's too late now!" :lol:

Gasket like the MTX-4 would have been better. :nod:

Having extra diffs is really the way to go. If that sound is the brake disk, then I guess I didn't leave enough of a gap between the pads.

Hmmm... would like to get to the bottom of what it is.

The diff seals do suck but with a bit of practice they can be built so they don't leak. To ensure a good seal you must use a new o-ring, proper fill level, and the right amount of tension. With the process below I haven't had any leakage problems with mine.

1. Fill to the indicated fill level and apply the cap w/o the o-ring seal.
2. While holding the diff cap side up work the diff with to pull the oil into the crevasses and air to the top. A drill with a cut dog bone works great.
3. Open the diff case and refill to the manual fill level.
4. Repeat steps 1-3 until the oil level remains holds steady, do not fill beyond the indicated mark or the diff will leak.
5. Install the seal in the cap w/o oiling it so that it contacts the outer lip and sung the screws down evenly in an X pattern. Do not over tighten or you will damage the seal, they only need to be snug.


For the twirling sound I would suggest you check your side belt tension and rear side pulley. With the 25T side pullet you will need to run the side belt tension at maximum to keep it from skipping under braking and hard acceleration. The belt may also bounce and slip if your side pulley gets gummed up with debris. Should the belt check not resolve the problem check your rear brake setup. If your brake screws are too tight (light drag) or too lose (lots of play) the brake disk with float and squeal. There is also potential for the pins on the brake pulley to rub the bulkhead if it is shifted all the way towards the spurs on its set screw key. A digital servo can also make a similar sound when the fets overheat from being used in a throttle application. The last thing to check is your 2spd assembly, make sure it is assembled correctly and the shoes are not spread too far rubbing on the gear adapter.

Mark