The NT1 has the option, to lower the tank 3mm when you use a diffrent receiver battery pack.

I have bought 5x AAA cells, but it seems that these aren´t the right one.

Has anybode of you tried to lower the tank and with which reiceiver battery configuration. (photos?)

you need the IB1400 2/3 AA cells in a flat configuration to be able to fit under the tank. and you would need a two cell lipo pack to be able to lower the tank but then you need a voltage regulator and most of them suck (cost the race for the guy leading the offroad nationals by a lap)

I believe the car ends up with a lower CG with the 2/3 AA cells due to more weight being on the bottom of the car, the tank is only being lowered by 4-5mm. The thunderpower 1400 lipo pack is 64 grams, 5 2/3aa cells are about 130 grams.

Build the pack in a 5 accross configuration with 3 cells in the tray and 2 overhanging on the left side of the chassis. With this config you can lower the tank 4.25 mm (flush with bottom of chassis) while removing ~1.5oz of battery weight.

Alternatively you could lower your tank ~ 2.5mm with the std 2/3A pack if you buy the optional graphite battery tray.

Mark

The Novak regulator seems to hold up pretty good - have you seen any issues with them?

Haven't seen a novak regulator fail yet, I still don't see the reason to remove 70+ grams from the very lowest and most central point in the car though.

Ok, this is was I also thought, what would be possible. I will give it a try. :ha:

k guys

i race elec on road

track racing elec os done... nitro only now




can i get a list of what id need to start nitro onroad?

im def doing a nt1:sweat:

hi blacked out ,

billy happens to have an nt1 in stock your timing is impectable :nod: i know you believe in supporting the facility that provides us a bad a$$ track to run on.

i would be happy to help you with the new car any way i can.
at speedworld there is always plenty of help and you wont find a more laid back crowd.

you'll need a starter box (you can share my starter box to begin if you need to keep costs down ), engine , fuel , fuel bottle , glo starter , tires, the club provides a truer to use on both practice and race days , you already have a steering servo from the eletric tc , so you need a throttle servo , exhaust pipe .
make sure you order the hard option bumper before you run the nt1 , the boards at speedworld as you know are unforgiving , cvd's are a must also imho other than cvd's and the hard bumper the car will work fantastic out of the box , oh you'll need some softer springs than the kit silvers for speedworld .

i know i am forgetting something lol

cheers ,

Alan

Anyone has parts wearing out fast at NT1?

How is the durability of the belts as compare to other cars?

Hi ,
I drove 3 races with the same spurs, pulleys and belts. This was 45 min A finals, qualifations and some practice. I have only changed the middel belt in in my last final. Because of the 25 s. pulley is the belt as stock lose. And I was not sure about life! The car is really strong.

My NT1 has been put throught the paces. We run 20min mains at the club track and has been to 2 45min mains, and a 30 min mian, along with several days of practice. The car has over 3 gallons of fuel through it, about 6 hours of actual race time.................I replaced the belts at the 301 race for the main., took them back off and used the old belts till this weekend.
The belts are much better than the previous car I drove, that may be due to the driveline being so free and they don't have the stress.

Anyone know what weight the Black and Silver springs are for the NT1?

mine only came with short and long silver springs so i haven't seen the black ones.

Supposedly the short fronts are "similar" to 33lb and the 28lb for the longer rear springs.

Same here. My lipo runtime has increased significantly and the switch that comes attached is top notch.

Apex... the black ones were prototype springs.. im pretty sure they are comparable to the blue ones... 28lbs that just came out??

im currently using the serpent reds, 28lbs. stock silver in the back.

Arv.