Originally Posted by tonylunatic

Agree with you, but would you make a decision on an upgrade that makes a car handle better based on heat transfer? As for experience I never owned one cause I couldn't find one, but racing, pitting, sharing setup, and running the exact same motor, pipe, tires, springs,fluids etc. (you get my point) next to BIGCAT TX for over a year of racing. That is experience.

Also agree it depends on the track, but how often is the track at optima level. Or should I say stays at optima level all day or race weekend.

Also on the Max Velocity chassis there were no screwa holding the aluminum.

Not disagreeing with anyone just discussing the topic of what chassis improves the DM1, I think its fair to say anyone better then stock. But when I noticed the handling and weight difference between my chassis and the CF one I would gone with the CF. Just my opinion.

Originally Posted by jneg

I have all three chassis the Max velocity does have the aluminum plates and it does have screws to hold in place. Then the motor mounts screw to it. There are two versions of the CF chassis (Max Velocity). The first version was ultra light with the same cut outs as the stock chassis and the second version was made without the cutouts (this was done after the 2010 World GT Championships). I was one of the racers that suggested to make the chassis without the cut outs at that race, because they could get caught on any screw and damage the chassis, so version 2 is what I have. The King Headz I bought it at that same race so I have had both chassis since 2010. Definitely heat trasfer is not the main concern. The CF chassis weighs about half of the stock chassis and the King Headz is 1 oz lighter than stock.

Originally Posted by Grenade10

Servo tray is in the works ........ Yours will be in the the first batch!

10/4 on the small spacers under the diff ...... They work to keep everything from moving.

As to the CF chassis ........ I have a sheet of 5.5 that should make 5 or 6 chassis Who is ready to put some cash out for one???

Originally Posted by Grenade10

So how did the version #2 chassis work vs. version #1?

I've cut a match to the stock chassis, and liked the King Headz one better, but that is with the other CF parts that we have made. So the car turns and does not need the chassis to flex as much.

I believe the stock chassis with the changes is to much steering for the track in Porter and probably Homestead. Long straights and fast sweepers off.

If you could pm me a picture of the "Version" #2 car .......

Originally Posted by Grenade10

So how did the version #2 chassis work vs. version #1?

I've cut a match to the stock chassis, and liked the King Headz one better, but that is with the other CF parts that we have made. So the car turns and does not need the chassis to flex as much.

I believe the stock chassis with the changes is to much steering for the track in Porter and probably Homestead. Long straights and fast sweepers off.

If you could pm me a picture of the "Version" #2 car .......

Originally Posted by Grenade10

Now that nitro season is around the corner, even though I should be looking at 12" of snow this weekend, I've had several PM's, Calls and e-mails about the DM-1 Parts. Below are links to the original posting, and I have the set up sheet as an attachement.

New parts we are working on - Foam bumper, larger to fit the McLaren or Protoform Body and done in a denser and more stable foam. New stand up servo tray that moves the servos for better steering and weight.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11327183-post1105.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11337479-post1106.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/11325054-post1104.html[/QUOTE

I will be ordering the two speed top plate, because I've got the the aluminum mount. And was going to have a plate made for this season. I'm also very interested in your Gear Box/Center of Gravity kit. I just had a look on IGT, but couldn't find the parts.

Originally Posted by BIGCAT TX

Does anyone running the DM1 let the "down stop" point be when the shock bottoms out? Kind of like running w/o droop screws?

I personally do not think it is good practice to let the shock bottom out (meaning fully extended) point be your down stop point?

Comments please?

Originally Posted by Grenade10

I've done this with out an issue, but in the past I have put some fuel tubing on the shock shaft to provide a small bump stop. You would only get full extension on the front if the front end is almost off the ground and on the rear, it woul be with a large up travel off power or under braking. Again with the tires almost off the ground.

Just my 2 cents.

Originally Posted by BIGCAT TX

I'm talking about downstop...fully extended shock hits before droop screws.