batto

iTrader: (2)

I now run a Kyosho, How ever when I ran the MTX4r I developed a gear stripping problem that in the end put me off the car. My mates 4r was faultless so we changed every thing but mine still did it we left the brace off his and over drove the car as in through the in field on the grass but could not make it strip 2nd gear, we swapped one ways , gear boxes , engines , shafts, bulk heads and so on I think you get my point. You could do a heat with mine then in the warm up for the next heat it would strip, You could then do 3 more heats and then half way through a final it would strip. On other days I could not finish a heat. There was no rhyme or reason as to when it would do it but it was extremely frustrating and I lost confidence in it. With the RRR I have only stripped one gear due to a cracked one pce engine mount.

Brian Bosley

iTrader: (13)

I second the gear stripping because of the engine mount in Toledo, I magically bent the back of my engine mount and then lost 2 spur gears until I figured out I needed to reset the mesh. Later on I found the bend in the mount. The time before that it was actually cracked, stripped gears until I figured that out too.

YmeBP

iTrader: (32)

Heh and that's only part of it, don't forget about the Pure Ten part hahah

mhavlena

"Oneway bearing in the 2 speed locking"?? isn't the oneway bearing attached to the 1st spur gear?..I don't understand, perhaps you simply meant the oneway bearing locking up...?
engine mount screws are fine, between bottom and top scres, there is still gap between them as I verify this once all the screws are in. Gear change occurs quite early as that is the way I prefer it.
Clutch slipping? I would assume you are talking about the main clutch and not the two speed clutch. Not sure how I can adjust a slipping clutch and whi it would be slipping in the first place..any advice?
Gear stripping generally occurs halfway through a 30 minute race, I generally survive a couple of 5 minute quals first, then race for 15 mins before the gear breaks. track bumpy? generally no, but there is one very bumpy spot..nevertheless, the mugens that I race don't seem to be braking spurs..;(

Appreciate your help..Thx!

BLKNOTCH

iTrader: (10)

OK I have 2 strains of thought I wish to place here for you all to think about in Mike case.

1st - To smoothen the shift from 1st to second I would recommend placing the 2nd speed clutch in the second speed clutch bell off the car and adjust the spacing to the point that when you rock it in you hand there is very little movement. By doing this the shift will be smoother and not such a bang on the gears (remember Eagle Engine)

2nd - I would like to entertain the idea that this problem is possibly being brought on by both the adjustment of the clutch and the driving style that Mike has adapted, Mike is a very jumpy throttle driver and by this I mean he uses the throttle like an on off switch. I really feel that with this action going threw the drive train there is a much higher chance of the plastic gears reaching there limits much sooner. I and others have double checked all the precautions Mike has taken to insure a solid mesh and it has been spot on each time.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Gears should be designed to handle on/off switch drivers.

The idea of having it shift soon is a good one, but in my opinion, sometimes you need to hang on first gear longer in order to be faster.

So, if shifting sooner is needed to prevent a RRR from stripping, they should definitely look into it.

Just my two cents, not to bash on the RRR's transmission.

BLKNOTCH

iTrader: (10)

No no I am not speaking of having the car shift sooner, the shifting point is dictated by the set screw to the side of the center set screw. I am talking about increasing the gap between the two shoes to close the gap in the clutch bell. You would then adjust the shift time accordingly.

Sean

blount

iTrader: (4)

There is nothing to look into! There never is or was a gear stripping problem with the RRR. I have ran this car and the evo 2 for over 13 months. In almost all major national races. If your having a gear stripping problem with the RRR it is NOT a manufactory defect.

bighurt98

iTrader: (11)

When I set my mesh, I always have a little play between teeth. My pinions and spur spin very freely by hand. I believe your mesh is to tight if you have the teeth of the pinions buried into the spurs. I race at most of the major races on east coast and south to Florida and have never had an issue with stripping gears. Usually the culprit is bent motor mount, bent chassis, wore out pinions or spurs, main shaft bearing issue such as seized bearing or bearing has got sloppy in bulkhead and allows movement or possible bent main shaft. That should cover it. The RRR does not have a gear stripping problem like the Mugen MTX 4.

Rustyw888

The rrr itself does not have a problem, but believe me, when this problem does occurr and will not go away it is very frustrating and costly (not necessarily in that order). Telling someone that there isnt a problem is not helpful when they are experiencing this.

I have had the problem in the last six months which I have finally overcome.
I have been racing this chassis for over 5 years in the UK National scene and have several years experience to draw on. Even with my knowledge It cost me in the region of 5 spur gears per meeting over about 6 or 7 meetings.
Its great to hear so many drivers dont have any problems with gears, but when they continue to break without any sense of logic it is soul destroying.

mhavlena, when i talked about the one way locking, I meant the one way bearing in 1st gear when worn can lock when propelling the car, but fail to release when 2nd gear kicks in causing a breakage.

How are you building your clutch?

mhavlena

For those who have been following the trail of posts pertaining to subject issue...I ran the entire weekend without ever stripping any gears and they are like new!!!

So what solved the gear stripping problem?..not really sure..I mentioned that I had replace everything on the car..all bearings, bulkheads, shafts, everything except the 2-speed clutch shoe as it was seemingly working flawlessly.

Well, this weekend I put a new one in, I ensured that the gap between the shoe and the spur was as close as possible (just like I did with the old one), but alas, nothing stripped, I even had one serious crash where my car flipped 3 times, things broke, but no stripping.

So, I attribute the gear stripping saga to an old (originally installed March 2005) 2 speed clutch shoe that was probably engaging too fiercely, but not due to gap size, but due to old/worn out springs.

Why didn't I just replace the 2-speed in the first place????

I appreciate all the replies from those whom tried to help!!!...Thx Guys!!!

Rustyw888

Its great to hear you have sorted your gear problem out.....
I hope you have many hours of fun without doing another gear!

FastPete

iTrader: (44)

Im going to bring back a old thread here.

I just picked one of these up used. V-One RRR EVO WCTE

I love the car so far. Its my first Nitro TC, had a GT before. And please no oh the new Serpents, Mugens, etc are better, I know this. I got a good deal on this and want to just get my feet wet. First time using foams also.

I still see these a lot of parts for this still which is great. My first question is , im using the Kyosho spool and the blades wear FAST. Would I be better off with a front diff with the locker installed in it? Or is there still a better spool that lasts out there?

Thanks

1evo RRR Driver

iTrader: (11)

Honestly a RRR with a capricorn clutch can compete with any of the current cars, n it's better than the R4! Don't let anybody tell u different! Stick with a diff! Maybe Unless u running on a high traction track....I think that's when a spool may shine

Steve_K

iTrader: (1)

The front diff outdrives will most likely wear just as fast as their spool. They wear fast for me too. I heat treated a set and I'll be testing them soon to see if it helps.