kewdawg

iTrader: (3)

Use the paper trick. Loosen the engine mount screws on the bottom of the chasis, so you can move the gears apart. Put a sliver of paper between the gears and push the engine back into the paper. Tighten down the engine mount screws and you're good. Be sure to use thread lock on the screws. They will vibrate loose, if, you don't use the thread lock and continue to strip gears. Also, make sure the mid brace that sits over the clutch bell and connects the rear bulkhead to the front is tight. A loose brace will allow chassis flex, which will cause the gears to come together or pull apart. Either situation will strip out the gears, too.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

I tried the paper trick but the gears were too far apart when I removed it. What kind of screws are you guys using underneath the engine?

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Also... do you guys first tighten the bottom or the upper screws?

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

I always attach the engine to the engine mount using loctite. Then I just adjust the mesh using my eyes and fingers. I try to set the mesh as tight as I can without the gears being too tight and making funny sounds. Be careful when you tighten down the screws that attach the engine mount to the chassis as sometimes the mount will shift slightly as you crank down on them. I really start by snugging down the first one, then the next and so on. Then tighten them. Recheck the mesh once the screws are tight.

I also use flathead screws with washers and I never use loctite on them. I have no problems at all with stripping gears.

jeff1

I don't worry about noise of gears indicating that is tight, but I don't let it too much tight
but you should consider check for play at clutch and gearbox bearings. Another point, do not let to much gap between 2nd clutch shoe and spur gear. It cause a abrupt shifting and can contribute to gears stripping
if you can use high quality bearings (high speed) at gearbox system its helps

what screws are you talking about?

try to use a soft paper. that paper to clean the ass is a good idea how do I say this in english?

MHarrison

iTrader: (6)

Also Something I ran across this past weekend, Make sure your rear belt is not too tight..I made a diff change and had the belt too tight , and started stripping 2nd gear as soon as I got back on the track.2 of them in a row Never stipped a gear before in this car. I loosened up the rear belt and , Wala.. No more stripping gears. Just a helpful tip i found. hope this helps

Scott Fisher

iTrader: (28)

Thanks for that tip. I have never heard of that, but I always run my belts as loose as I think I can get away with.

ejcabal

Try replacing the one way in the first gear housing. It might seem ok when it is not. I changed everything and tried different ways to mesh the gears before changing the one way because I didn't think there was something wrong with it. When I finally changed it, the stripping stopped.

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Thanks for the help guys... The bearings on the clutch bell are not even 1 race old. And I dont think it is the oneway bearing because I have more than 1 and changed it ocassionally and stripping still occurs. I just checked the rear belt and its not that tight, gonna try to loosen it a bit more.

The screws im talking about are the ones that go below the chassis and hold onto the engine mount. I used to have the 2.5mm hex screws that hold the rear anti-roll bar and never had one single problem with tighten it down. That was until from use, the screws lost their heads and had to dremel them down. I switched to what Scott Fisher uses, flat head hex screws with washers...

Anyone else runs their car with a bit of noise meaning that their gears are a little tight without any problems?

I'll probably get the aluminum brace that goes over the engine to see if that helps.

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

When I first got my RRR I had the same problem, couldnt go a tank without striping second gear. I sourced it to the big bearing on the clutch bell. It seems that the bearings that come with the clutch are crappy and they have a lot of play. I tried a 3 year old bearing that I had sitting around, and the 2nd gear striping problems are done. I've only strip maybe 3 gears in 1 year.

Deebs

I was plagued with stripped gears during last years FORGASS season. I would go thru anywhere from 3 to 6 gears in a 2 day race week-end. Very Fustrating - especially when you have tried everything!

The lasted thing I tried was meshing the gears very tight. As soon as it loosen up a bit, I remeshed them tight again. It is a bit noisy but it seems to work . . . for now

dougday

Check the bearings on the mainshaft as well. Bad bearings there would allow too much play on that mainshaft. If you have play on the mainshaft and the bearings are good then you probably need to change the bearing block(rear bulk)

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

Well, I always thought that lateral play on the mid front shaft and the main shaft were good? Should it be minimum or should I just allow some?

GSPOT

iTrader: (62)

how sharp are your pinion gears? are they worn out?
aluminum or steel?

Riketsu

iTrader: (34)

They are both steel. And Im using a stock clutch bell not the light one. The pinions have no more than 1 race and they dont have any sign of damage nor worn...