321LikesKyosho Inferno MP9 TKI4 1/8 Buggy Kit
11-05-2018, 09:06 AM - Wikipost
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Picked up a TKI3 and want to upgrade to TKI4 ? Here are all the updated parts:
Shocks IF347-155 1.5X5 Pistons IF471-01 Front Shock Body IF470-01 Rear Shock Body IF470-03BK Shock Adjust Dial IFW154 Boots IF346-05C Shock End Set Wing IF491BK Wing IFW460B Wing Mount/Stay Rear End IFH006W Wheel IF490 HUB IF490-01 Hub Insert IF492 Shock Pin IF423HB Rear Arm IF287 Hard Upper Rod Rear Front End IF489 Steering Rod Set IF488 Knuckles IF487H Front Arm IFW458 Hard Lower Pin IFW425 93MM CVD IF286 Hard Upper Rod IF486 Lower Susp Holder IFW459 Servo Saver (Hard) IF446B Ackerman Arm IF426-64.5 Susp Shaft Other IF469B Filter 97035LW-13 Clutch Bell IF453B Body Mount IFW107GM Hexes W300910 Washer IF443B Center Diff Plate IF444C Tank IF479B Radio Box 96772 13x16x0.15mm Shim IF481B Fuel Tank Stay IFW336GM Wheelnut IFB008 TKI4 Body IFD403W TKI4 Decal --------------------------- Another option if you want TKI4 Durability but TKI3 geometry of the front arm is : IF493 Front Arm (Updated MP9 front arms replaces IF427B as a direct fit. Left and right.) They use the older TKI3 captured outer hinge pin and screw. But if you just reem out the the outer hole you can use TKI hinge-pin/nut (IFW458) --------------------------- Optional Updates / New Parts: IFW469 IFW469 Aeration Cap Set(Threaded Big Shock/MP9) IFW473 New Brake Pads (Sept 2017) Optional Alu front hubs: - IFW412 - 13 deg (like stock plastic ones) - IFW436 - 16 deg - IFW474 - 17.5 deg - IFW461 - 19deg M2C 1mm engine spacer: M2C9610 Body Options New Bitty Force Body Tebo's Build Videos Video #1 Video #2 Video #3 Video #4 Video #5 Video #6 Original Kyosho MP9 TKI Thread _____________________ Baseline setups from Joonas.   _____________________ Shock build with vented cap and compensator. You have to use the HC diaphragms (if346-09,stock TKI3 and if not mistaken TKI4 too, yes the thin ones no one likes), aeration caps without the bleeder screw or mod the stock caps by drilling a 1.5 or 2mm hole on the top facing up or at an angle (doesn't matter the size or angle, it just for bleeding pressure behind the diaphragm and allow the foam compensator to breathe) and a 10mm width x 3.5mm height dome shaped foam compensator made from old open cell inserts or dishwasher sponge. The foam compensator has to be soft enough not to add rebound but allow the diaphragm to regain it's shape. Setup Sheet and Tuning The setup sheet is getting crowded with all options but don't worry once you get acquainted with the parts will make sense. Run the car as is, more than probably you won't need anything else. Using my setup as an example: Diff gear has two options, normal and LSD. LSD stands for limited slip differential and is like using thick oils because you can't tune coast from locked. Shock setup is a bit more confusing, you have two shock body sizes (S and M and truggy sized rear shocks that only the first version had so forget this one), three types of pistons (flat holes and surfaces, flat holes tapered surface and tapered holes with tapered surface): tapered have most pack, then black(simple piston) and then white because length of the holes. Then you have different length springs to account for different shock sizes, for a standard wheelbase/no weights car a good combo is Light Blue front and Orange rear, if you extend the wheelbase then I expect the included Light Blue rear springs be money instead of Orange. Ride height is self explanatory, start always with lower arms parallel because good suspension geometry will be far easier to achieve. Rebound is used as total shock length no idea why they call it rebound, either use total shock length or maximum exposed shock shaft length. Camber self explanatory, run more camber in the front than the rear to make the car oversteer and more rear than front to make it understeer(grossly oversimplified). Toe same deal as camber(again grossly oversimplified) but this you have to run the least amount you can. I use around 2º-2.5º on my cars, never more as I can find traction by other means with way less impact on performance. Wheelbase is a powerful setting, changes a lot of stuff. Let's just say that it can make the car behave neutral or not in that small range. Try for yourself. I like to use the longest setting and tune from there. Shock position self explanatory, something most don't change and I don't play around with it. I do have a method but involves much work (with the car bottomed out, see which position places the shock 90º to the lower arm and then chose spring from a couple equations and bam done, I can do it easily so anyone interested just ask. Rear upper arm position is again an important setting, you change both camber gain and roll centre. The rear roll centre should be higher than the front, that's why I use the middle hole inner row as a starting setup. Suspension arm, self explanatory: there are two different length arms and each has a hard and a normal flex plastic. Front suspension bushing is for upper arm alignment, also same deal as rear upper arm position changes both camber gain and roll centre. Suspension holder is for kick up (pro dive is the correct naming). I believe tki4 9º of kick up to be better than 9º of kick up using the tki3 parts because you can run the car lower (26mm front ride height) and use the +2mm front shock tower if there's too much camber gain or it's stiff in roll. So use +2mm lowered roll centre to keep most stuff unchanged or use the bushings with the dot up to lower the roll centre a bit more, doesn't hurt anything. Front hub carrier, self explanatory. I am trying to use the out hole on top of the carrier as it is better during braking and accelerating. Together with the higher front roll centre on the tki4 should provide enough camber gain during cornering if not then more caster will do. Rear roll centre and anti squat(wrongly called skid angle). Again same thinking as the front, lower the car and keep roll centre in the same height as before(that will need a change in upper arm position which my setup does). Anti squat is changed only if the pitching motion causes too much camber to be gained by the rear tires on power, nothing more. Front knuckle, apparently there's a difference in the Ackerman arm. Can't say anything about them as I don't know enough about both. Rear hub carrier,there is one made of plastic (which doesn't have offset apparently so it's suited to long arm setting) and three aluminium versions. One similar to the plastic one, other with offset and a new one with offset and adjustable hub height. Rear tread can be used as arm length and outboard toe(never seen it being used but the possibility is there). Longer is better most of the time (only on really low traction). Chassis brace, wheel hub, sway bars and weight are self explanatory. No need to use weights nor other hubs. A couple of roll bars would be a nice addition. About the aluminium braces I am torn, I guess the car doesn't need flex with this setup but won't recommend the stiffer braces but the lower engine mount is very nice to deal with flex around the clutch. Wing and wing stay are like the d81x had regarding height and position. The wing should be as low and have free airflow as possible. 
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12-13-2017, 03:49 AM
#2162
Hey guys, ref. section 3 on the set-up sheet that has me a little bit stumped...
Either increasing or decreasing the rear tread width using the arm inserts, it shows to use IFW410 (rear hub carrier) to achieve the L setting.
Does using IFW410 over the stock kit TKI4 part IF490 (rear hub carrier) offer something that IF490 doesn't, in relation to the tread width?
I appreciate that there are many options using just spacers and inserts with IF490, to alter position, but just thought I'd ask the question.
Either increasing or decreasing the rear tread width using the arm inserts, it shows to use IFW410 (rear hub carrier) to achieve the L setting.
Does using IFW410 over the stock kit TKI4 part IF490 (rear hub carrier) offer something that IF490 doesn't, in relation to the tread width?
I appreciate that there are many options using just spacers and inserts with IF490, to alter position, but just thought I'd ask the question.
12-13-2017, 07:22 AM
#2163
Tech Master
IFW410 is not 2mm offset as the 490 is. You can then run the outer hingepin outside of the arm without the car get to wide and outside of the rules.
So, what dooes this do with the cars handling? You get more rear end grip and a car thats easier to drive when the traction is high. The few times i run on astroturf i use the 410 upright and the outer hingepin on the outside of the arm.
So, what dooes this do with the cars handling? You get more rear end grip and a car thats easier to drive when the traction is high. The few times i run on astroturf i use the 410 upright and the outer hingepin on the outside of the arm.
12-13-2017, 02:08 PM
#2164
IFW410 is not 2mm offset as the 490 is. You can then run the outer hingepin outside of the arm without the car get to wide and outside of the rules.
So, what dooes this do with the cars handling? You get more rear end grip and a car thats easier to drive when the traction is high. The few times i run on astroturf i use the 410 upright and the outer hingepin on the outside of the arm.
So, what dooes this do with the cars handling? You get more rear end grip and a car thats easier to drive when the traction is high. The few times i run on astroturf i use the 410 upright and the outer hingepin on the outside of the arm.
12-13-2017, 02:45 PM
#2165
Word of caution, now that I'm driving my mp9 on very low traction I think I know what issues some are having. I went too far with the on power steering thing, it reminds me of the 8ight... Sorry about that, in the mean time the stock roll bars are to be used.
12-13-2017, 04:04 PM
#2170
12-14-2017, 08:06 AM
#2172
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Too soft? Then go up in shock oils or stiffer springs. I’m not a rocket scientist when it comes to set up changes but I do know simple changes to get my car to do something better. IMHO I feel some of you guys are making this more difficult then what it is. I’ve ran this car for 5 years and I don’t think this car requires so much drastic set up changes....but we all have different driving styles....I guess. Ive never even ran different sway bars other then stock. Ride height, camber, wheel base, shock oil and springs are the main things I play with. Btw I run the TKI3 stuff up front. The b plate and steering knuckles.
12-14-2017, 12:52 PM
#2173
Tech Master
Your welcome. One thing i got to think abaout, check that you have the 93mm rear driveshafts. I can`t remember if i used 91 or 93mm drivshafts last time i used IF410. Just to be shure that your driveshafts won`t pop out if you decide testing it.
12-14-2017, 12:56 PM
#2174
Tech Initiate
Sometimes you need a soft rear end setup, the problem is it collapses. A 2.6 swaybar helps with this.
12-14-2017, 02:53 PM
#2175
Now we're talking, today tried the stock 2.5mm and better but still not there, I think it's a combo of rear roll centre and front roll bar. So for tomorrow the plan is to test the stock roll bars, add front toe (doing right now), raise the rear roll centre and the 2.3mm bar all round (which I don't think will do any good).